VVT Gear Timing

[jdpartridge05]

Hey all quick question on timing the new VVT gear on 2000 s40 1.9t.

If the new gear has no timing mark how do i verify it's correct.

I read that you mark your old gear for verification but, if I am changing the gear what's the point....my marks would be on the old gear....right?

Also I read the pdf people have posted but do I have to use the tool for the crank? Also what is the drift. I watched a video and the guy didn't use the crank tool but he had the engine out of the car.

Either way I'm confused on a few steps.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

[Livens]

You are correct, the new gears have no timing marks on them. Here is all you need to do in order to insure you have the timing correct.

First, you do need to have a cam lock tool to do this. Not one of the cheap ones that lock the gears themselves, you need the Volvo one that locks the camshafts directly from the rear of the engine. I used an aftermarket one I found on eBay.

Once you have everything replaced that you are going to; idler, tensioner, water pump... Put the new VVT gear on and don't tighten it all the way, it needs to be able to move a little. The same for the other timing gear, leave it loose. And do not tension the belt yet either. Just get the belt on and sitting on all of the gears/pulleys. Make sure the belt isn't cinched up between any of the parts, it should be uniformly taught in between everything. Tension the belt, then tighten up the timing gear and the VVT. Torque down the VVT gear SLOWLY. Recheck the tensioner.

As long as you have the cams in the right position with the lock, and the crankshaft is in the right position too, the alignment of the timing gears does not matter. They need to be set neutral to the timing belt, not pulling on it one way or the other.

After that I did make new timing marks on the gears using fingernail polish. Do that so that you can turn the engine over 2 full revolutions by hand, and check that the timing marks came back to the same place. If not something is wrong. Turn the engine back the other way 2 revolutions and re-time it. I confess it took me more than 1 try to get it right (I have the crankshaft off by a couple of teeth!). You only really get one chance once you start the engine up.

[jimmy57]

Put the new cvvt onto cam and secure the bolt. Attempt to turn it back and forth to see if it is locked or to lock it if it is not. Now loosen the bolt. Loosen the bolts on intake cam gear also.
With cams locked with tool at rear of cams and the crank set in position with marks aligned, fit the belt making sure the intake cam mark is in proper place. Overtension the belt and then bring it back down to the correct tension range. The last step assures the belt is tensioned all the way around. Torque the exhaust cam bolt and the three bolts for intake cam (88 lb-ft exh, 13 lb-ft intake)
Now use a file and file you a mark on the exh cam gear aligned with the pointer on top belt cover.

[jdpartridge05]

Ok. Let me see if I got this.

I install the VVT loosely, and also loosen the intake cam? I have only a VVT on the exhaust side just to be certain.

So anyways, put on VVT loosely, put on belt, add tension to belt, torque the VVT, Mark with polish, then rotate crank 2 revolutions if it lines up im good?

I thought that I had to loosen the three bolts holding the VVT to the gear, also I thought when I put the belt on I had to set the VVT to its limit position or all the way clockwise then put the belt on?

Also I saw that you need to move the exhaust cam a little to get the cam tool on it. Does that affect the timing or no?

Sorry guys some of this just doesn't make sense to me.

[jimmy57]

FIRST!!!!
Do you have a cam locking tool that bolts to rear of both cams?
IT IS VITAL that you have the tool to place the cams in their correct position.
Have you identified the mark on rear of the crankshaft belt "gear" and identified the line that serves as pointer on the oil pump housing behind it? There is a stop pin to place crank in correct position but CAREFUL alignment of crank gear mark to pointer is fine.

On a 4 cylinder of that engine family the exh CVVT does not have slotted bolt holes on the hub. The hub has a locking feature the 5 and 6 cylinders of that period did not have. This CVVT is left loose on cam and moves to the right place when belt is tensioned. The intake gear is slotted and it also should be loose in order to move to the right place. If you just replace belt you just remove belt after lining all the marks up and fit new belt making sure all is still aligned.

The cam alignment/locking tool is very common to engines in the last 20 years. Volvo and Ford both started using it in early 90's. Some were doing it this way even earlier.

[jdpartridge05]

Yes I do have that tool also have the crank alignment tool or stop. I bought it as a kit and it is the one that locks the cams from the rear.

Okay I think I am reading too much about the 5 and 6 cylinder engines. In the manual I have it says that they are all similar. Think I am just reading to far into this. I have already done the water pump, timing belt, tensioner and idler so I am familiar with being in that region and the mark being on the rear crank gear. Just some of the directions haven't been clear I suppose.

So really-

Lock Cams and crank
Put on belt
Apply Tension
Torque down cams
Remove alignment tools and re-install everything else

[Livens]

I was confused the first time I did this too. I think I watched the same vid as you, and they were using a 5 cyl engine from a 2004.5+ S40. On those engines the VVT gear is spring loaded and needs to be rotated into position before putting the belt on.

With the older S40's the VVT has a locking pin inside of it that locks it into its default position. This makes the job a bit easier.

[jdpartridge05]

Yeah, i'm feeling a lot more confident now. There is just too much conflicting information out there I wasn't sure what to believe.

Thanks a lot guys

[vicvac]

What happens if you get the timing incorrect and start the engine? Does it signify the end of the engine?