2000 S80: Engine starts, rough idle, then dies.

christophervolvos80 · Post by **christophervolvos80** » 16 Nov 2014, 13:25

The problem started suddenly, driving about 50-60 mph then I noticed the RPMs dropped to 1500 and began to slow. I pressed the gas more and the RPMs did not increase nor did my speed and the engine was still running while I was coasting at 40 mpg. When I pulled over to a stop and put the car in park, I noticed the engine seemed to idle rough and that the RPM was above 1100. I turned off the engine waited 10 seconds then tried to turn it on again. The engine would start but idle rough at 1100 RPM then the engine would turn off in a few seconds.

So my car has been at my local mechanic for over a week and I don't think they know what is wrong. They have replaced the Electronic Throttle Body and the Fuel Pump and my S80 still will not stay running. They checked the fuel and air delivery systems like the Mass Airflow Sensor and everything seems to be okay. They noticed that one of the two bolts was loose that holds the PCV box and that below the box appears to have some oil build up (PCV was done by another shop 6 months ago). They said that it would not be causing the issue I have. Does anyone have any ideas as to what it is?

christophervolvos80 · Post by **christophervolvos80** » 18 Nov 2014, 22:28

My local mechanic now tells me that they have a different throttle body that they tested that should work for my S80 and will install it and see if that runs. He also told me that the original throttle body I had that malfunctioned was causing an electrical issue with overloading the wires going to my fuel pump that caused the fuel pump to overheat and needed replacing. I really don't know if that is what happened or if they are just billing me for more work and parts. Does this actually happen in Volvos or has anyone else experienced this or know if this is true?

2000s80greg · Post by **2000s80greg** » 03 Dec 2014, 09:47

I have the same car and same problem did you find a fix

jbkeene · Post by **jbkeene** » 04 Dec 2014, 07:50

bite the bullet and go to a qualified dealer
your mechanic doesn't know what he is doing

christophervolvos80 · Post by **christophervolvos80** » 27 Apr 2015, 02:03

Yes, that is what I did in the end. Ended up with a replacement throttle body, new starter, fuel pump, a few new ignition coils, and a new set of spark plugs. And now it runs like a charm.

Thisistom · Post by **Thisistom** » 23 Jul 2015, 19:50

I had same issue. What codes do you get from OBC?
You might try cleaning the MAF sensor. Or, just replace it yourself for about $150 and 15 minutes work.

Thisistom · Post by **Thisistom** » 23 Jul 2015, 19:51

Ps, there is a spray of cleaner just for the maf.

taharka · Post by **taharka** » 02 Aug 2015, 20:44

There's a company named XeMODeX that introduced a $600. service that refurbish your ETM with new, non-contacting parts. Comes reprogram with life warranty. They refund $100. when you send the old ETM. Haven't use their product yet; using other options. Heard it works like new ... no problems. (1888) 712-2525 ... www.XEMODeX.com

jbkeene · Post by **jbkeene** » 03 Aug 2015, 05:47

yes, XeMODeX is a good solution
worked for me

resource · Post by **resource** » 19 Aug 2015, 04:10

Hi all...Brian here in Malta (in middle of Med, not in USA).
I have a yr2000 S80 with ETM issues I think....
My first issue was that the air conditioning which I had rechanged the year before suddenly turned off at same time that engine lost power. Engine began to judder and drive sluggishly. Almost 2 seconds from throttle action to get engine response....so handbook, this brilliant MVS website and you guys pin pointed the issue to the ETM. AS it appears the ETM shares a fuse with the AC compressor....this is why the AC died too when it was 36degrees here with a 94% humidity.

Anyway, local mechanics extracted some cash from me for no solution but supplied some greasy carpet and multiple fingerprints, so I decided to test what I could. I changed the fuse and immediately all was good ....for ten minutes when all went bad again...so again replaced fuse but left AC system OFF. Fuse blew again after about 15 mins use so evidence pointed to ETM. I did replace fuse one more time and with engine idling only (no throttle demand) the AC ran well until I turned it off. Problem is obviously indicating the ETM. There are LOTS of comments that a CLEAN ETM will deliver much better driving, fuel economy and power.
Found this video via MVS and I am going to do this job myself as looks simple as pie.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?V=obUAQNwQERI I have one more area to consider once ETM is on the bench, which is to wonder WHY the fuses blew here....my immediate thought is the butterfly valve is sticking until vacuum overcomes it, OR perhaps electronic system that activates the butterfly is playing up. Haven't yet found any info on the electronic side of the ETM but will investigate further and maybe take a peek inside end covers on ETM. I'll post any observations and results later because this method might end up being cost free. Bri