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2002 S60 Misfire diagnosis, not ignition coils

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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butthole
Posts: 19
Joined: 8 July 2014
Year and Model: 2002 s60 AWD
Location: Australia

2002 S60 Misfire diagnosis, not ignition coils

Post by butthole »

Hi

I've had a cylinder misfire on 4 and 5 for quite a while. One can actually feel terrible misfires when it's starting up most of the time (even if hot). One can also feel the misfires when idling as well, it's almost as if the more throttle I give, the less I feel it misfire (but still sh*t fuel economy)

I've replaced the ignition coils 4,5 that fault codes reported as misfiring. (first took it to a mechanic who mistakenly changed 2,3). Seemed to work well for a bit, but alas the codes returned and it's still misfiring. Sparkies are all changed. (Actually after replacing the spark plugs, cylinder 3 was added to the fault codes)

draser
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Post by draser »

If you have a scanner that reads fuel trims look at short term to be around zero and long term in single digits. If long term is 2-digits negative the ecu is trying to supply less gas to compensate for some fuel supply problem, hence bad mpg. Also look at AFR number indicating if engine run lean or rich. If no scanner look at plugs to see if they're smoked. Try a strong injector cleaner to see if it makes a diff. Are you losing any antifreeze? Hopefully not, that may indicate a leaky head gasket, but you'll see evidence of it looking at the plugs.
2005 Volvo S60 2.5T, Zimmerman/Akebono brakes
2012 Honda Accord, EBC slotted rotors

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oragex
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Post by oragex »

The thing you can easily check and fix would be indeed a fuel injector clogged. For the injectors, either get used ones off ebay, or have them cleaned off ebay as well for about $100 all of them - best option so you know all will work like new

Note that in car injector cleaning is not useful at this stage. You need to have them removed and put on an ultrasonic cleaning machine. Have a look on Youtube.

Also, check the wires that go to the ignition coils, might get crushed and break. Lastly, could be burned valve or a head gasket, as mentioned

butthole
Posts: 19
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Year and Model: 2002 s60 AWD
Location: Australia

Post by butthole »

Yes I do actually have a coolant leak lol. A rather bad one. The only thing is, the gauge has never gone past the middle and I've never seen white smoke nor does the oil show signs of coolant contamination.

Apparently it's the waterpump but the mechanic that told me that has been wrong before.

butthole
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Year and Model: 2002 s60 AWD
Location: Australia

Post by butthole »

Forgot to add, sometimes when starting the car it will start then die instantly. (But also sometimes struggles to start)

The long term fuel trim is -7.03%

draser
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Post by draser »

I'd focus on that then. I'd do a compression test to confirm. Not the best of the news.
2005 Volvo S60 2.5T, Zimmerman/Akebono brakes
2012 Honda Accord, EBC slotted rotors

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Post by abscate »

butthole wrote:Yes I do actually have a coolant leak lol. A rather bad one. The only thing is, the gauge has never gone past the middle and I've never seen white smoke nor does the oil show signs of coolant contamination.

Apparently it's the waterpump but the mechanic that told me that has been wrong before.
This isn't relevant to the misfire directly, but if the water pump does seize it takes out the timing belt and then the cylinder head, to the tune of 2000 usd repairs.
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FLXC90
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Post by FLXC90 »

And remember, compression check is not the only way to verify leaking head gasket on a whiteblock, they will pass compression test, but pressurize the coolant system. Search Block check tests; it checks for exhaust gasses in the coolant.

Also, since the misfire is still in 4 and 5, check the ground wire for those coils. Maybe you'll get lucky!!
Current Volvos:
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
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2008XC70
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Post by 2008XC70 »

Whoah there, slow down. Head replacement is a last resort!

First, pull the coil packs and make sure none of them have cracks anywhere (slide the rubber boots down too). Make sure plugs are gapped appropriately.

Check and make sure all vacuum lines are tight.

Pull injector connectors one by one and see if you notice a difference in idle. If you notice a particular injector makes little or no difference in idle, that is suspect. You can do the same with coil packs.

Have you done tbelt or pcv recently? Sometimes timing will be off or a vacuum line was disturbed.

Check compression and do a leak-down test. This would be a last resort indicating its time for a head job. A leak down test will tell you if there are issues in the top end or bottom end.

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