Volvo Tie-rod play

Post by **rmmagow** » 18 Jan 2007, 08:44

Didn't want to start a new thread for this. Any professional service folks on here? What are your feeling about a customer who brings in the parts he/she wants replaced with the understanding there may be a higher shop rate applied for the labor? I occasionally have jobs I need done on my older cars where I have either no choice but to get used parts or have an overseas source for very hard to find parts. Some of the tasks are hard for me to do since a lift would be needed (or it's 12 below zero) and I'd like to have a shop do the work for me.
I wsh I had established a relationship with a good local shop, the only one I've ever used that was any good went out of business (retired).

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 18 Jan 2007, 17:06

Just talk to them BEFORE bringing in your parts and explain everything to them. Some are willing to do this, but none that I know of will warranty the parts they put in.

larryh · Post by **larryh** » 18 Jan 2007, 20:08

i've only done this on a tranny job, but yeah, thats my experience too, he'll put in my parts but will not warrantee them. the shop rate is the same.

Mike850 · Post by **Mike850** » 19 Feb 2007, 15:14

What is the best way to tell if you're tie rod needs replacement? How exactly do we define "play"? Mine will twist like it should but if I grip it and shake it there seems to be no "wiggle room". Is there a standard procedure for testing tie rods? Thanks.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 19 Feb 2007, 15:21

It shouldn't wiggle either way.

PerryRT · Post by **PerryRT** » 19 Feb 2007, 17:28

Occasionally have jobs I need done on my older cars where I have either no choice but to get used parts or have an overseas source for very hard to find parts. Some of the tasks are hard for me to do since a lift would be needed (or it's 12 below zero) and I'd like to have a shop do the work for me.

I agree with what's been said on the "bringing the parts to the shop thing". Only time I've had to do this was on an old Subaru, and I did some shopping around. Found an independent shop willing to do the work, but they made me sign a waiver (for liability) on the basis that if they didn't provide the parts, they couldn't really guarantee anything out the door. Fair enough.

They did charge me the same labor rate, though I thought the job (drive shaft and rear axle replacement) took longer than I anticipated. Maybe some "rounding up" going on, but you don't "bind the mouths of the kine that tread the grain."

And I -did- shop around. Several shops hung up on me. It helped that the car was 25ish years old, too - if it was an '04 Ford Focus or something easy to get parts for, I got the impression that the shop wouldn't have considered it. I think if you find a shop that's willing to work with you this way....hang on to them!

blackstarpower · Post by **blackstarpower** » 24 Feb 2007, 10:19

Does anyone know how to go about replacing the inner tie rods as well?

Post by **JRL** » 24 Feb 2007, 10:55

blackstarpower wrote:Does anyone know how to go about replacing the inner tie rods as well?

Just keep on disassembling until you reach the inners!

paulfr · Post by **paulfr** » 01 Sep 2007, 13:08

I just did my tie rods and noticed this post. Although the original post is old, I've found we use these post regardless of age.

As you unscrew the tie rod from the inner or steering rod you need a way to remember its position so you can get the new part in approximately the same spot. Remember - alignment.

Most folks count the number of turns. Mine were 13 each side. You can also leave the tightening bolt in the same place or mark the specific Spot on the thread w/ wite-out or do all three.

Whatever its easy to do and gets the front end back where it was. Then get an alignment

Post by **JRL** » 01 Sep 2007, 17:03

paulfr wrote:I just did my tie rods and noticed this post. Although the original post is old, I've found we use these post regardless of age.

As you unscrew the tie rod from the inner or steering rod you need a way to remember its position so you can get the new part in approximately the same spot. Remember - alignment.

Most folks count the number of turns. Mine were 13 each side. You can also leave the tightening bolt in the same place or mark the specific Spot on the thread w/ wite-out or do all three.

Whatever its easy to do and gets the front end back where it was. Then get an alignment

WHY?
You ALWAYS do an alignment after a tie rod replacement so it doesn't/shouldn't really matter