2005/6 P2 PCV service notes (split topic)

[Robert_C]

Can someone tell me where to find what additional or different steps are required for refurbishing the PCV system on a 2006 V70 Turbo with the 2,5 T engine?

[Robert_C]

I just redid the PCV system on a 2006 V70 2.5T. I connected the hose that runs from the air intake (the one with the coolant line attached) to the port on the new oil separator box closest to the block and the new rubber hose running to the cam cover to the port on the box closest to the radiator. This is how the original hoses/box were setup [ see photo in XC 90 PCV replacement] and it must have been correct since the ports were two different sizes. Now I see diagrams showing the connections reversed with the cam cover vent line going to the port closer to the block. I have also been told that the ports on the new box ( even though it is listed with same part number as the old one) are now the same size and so a reversal of hoses is possible. I did not think to check the port sizes when I was doing the job. So I have three questions:
1) which is the correct configuration, the old one with cam vent hose connected on port further from the block, or the one the diagram shows even though it does not exactly match my engine in a few minor respects?
2) Does it matter?
3) If it is important to reverse the hoses, is there a way to switch the hoses without pulling the manifold again?

[oragex]

Just a little post about the non-turbo 2.4 engine on P2.

There is no need to remove the throttle body, just disconnect the t.b. harness, then disconnect the flexible air tube at either end.

The fuel rail can have a small green clip behind it, where the fuel line connects to the rail. To disconnect the rail from the fuel line, carefully depress both on the upper and lower (from under the rail) green squares of the clip. The squares should both 'lock' depressed, then pull on the fuel rail to lift it. WHen installing back the rail, just gently press it against the fuel line until it 'pops' in, then make sure the green squares on the clip pop back up. Don't force on this fuel line.

The left lower bolt on the intake manifold is, of course, near impossible to access. All the alternator, the thermostat case and a black sensor with a vacuum line are in the way. The bolt can be removed without removing the thermostat case, which is good news knowing what a pain is to remove this thing. The manifold bolt head will rub against the stat case, but it will pass! Once removed, it's better to shim a bit the bolt head so it gets easier back on.

I've heard about someone who did use a flexible extension to remove the manifold bolt at this point. Without a flexible extension, the steering pump must be moved away. Not big deal, remove the serpentine belt, and unscrew the 3 pump bolts, then toss the pump a little bit. Now the funny part begins. To get access to the manifold screw, the black sensor must be removed. It has two 10mm screws hard to access, but they need to come out. Takes long to remove them. Then push the hose off the sensor, and pull the sensor from the intake. It can't be removed from there until the manifold is removed, but it can be tossed on the side, to gain access to the manifold bolt. At this point the long awaited manifold bolt can be reached with a long 3/8 extension plus a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter plus a short 1/4 extension with a 1/4 10mm socket.

[Gaz_Man]

Just 2 additional notes, the injector rail can be removed with the wire loom intact providing you separate the fuel line at the junction with a ford type line release tool. Then just fold it out of the way, no screws at risk and time saved.