1999 S70 poor running, misfiring split topic

[1Wagon]

I am baaaaack!

Been a bit busy with the new bundle lately.
I made the mistake of going to a crappy quickie oil changy place for the first time since I couldn't get in to see my go to Volvo mechanic. Big mistake, not sure what they put in there (tomato juice? ). Car ran like absolute junk for a few days. Before then, yes my turbo seemed to be working fine. As for the 45 mph limit on the highway in town, can't say I have really utilized my turbo since the "oil change."

I will look at what codes are on there today and repost.

Original topic here

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=58147

[jose456891]

I took the car for a Home Depot run...paper clip mode. I noticed the car tried to bog down a bit every now and again (whether it I was going a steady 45 mph 2500 rpm or from a dead stop). The arrow (W mode) light was on and blinking as well as the traction light periodically....and the odometer would be blank.

Sounds like you are having -other- electrical problems. In my 850 the only reason the traction control, transmission light, clock would go off is if there is a strong enough dip in voltage.

The fuel pump relay is a notorious for breaking, but don't jump the gun, or you will be throwing away money like I did recently.

This is what I would do: Go to AutoZone/Riley's/Advance Auto Parts and have the read your codes (if any) and have them test the charging system in your car.

If you indeed have codes, post them here before going any further.....

If no codes, follow this list:

-Does your car have a Distributor or Coil on Plug ignition?

If distributor:

1) Plugs
2) Wires
3) Distributor Cap
4) Distributor Rotor ** this is what cured my car
5) Fuel filter
6) Engine Air Filter
7) Test Fuel Pressure, replace Fuel Pump, Regulator, Relay as needed
8 ) Test for vacum leaks, replace as needed
9) Test Fuel Injectors, replace/clean as needed
10) Test front O2 sensor, replace both if front is slow
11) Test crank sensor, replace as needed
13) Test engine RPM sensor, replace as needed
13) Test Ignition Coil, replace as needed
14) Test charging system, all wiring from and to alternator starter and battery, clean or replace as needed.


If Coil on Plug:

1) Plugs
2) Fuel filter
3) Engine Air Filter
4) Test Fuel Pressure, replace Fuel Pump, Regulator, Relay as needed
5) Test for vacum leaks, replace as needed
6) Test Fuel Injectors, replace/clean as needed
7) Test front O2 sensor, replace both if front is slow
8 ) Test crank sensor, replace as needed
9) Test engine RPM sensor, replace as needed
10) Test Ignition Coils, replace as needed
11) Test charging system, all wiring from and to alternator starter and battery, clean or replace as needed

If you go to a mechanic, have him follow this guide, or PM me so I can send you Volvo's own guide. (Some mechanics need to have their hands held when doing their job...)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Whoops.. I did not realize the number of replies already posted. I had only read the 1st page before posting this.

Also test MAF/MAP sensors as needed.

[1Wagon]

I replaced the MAP, MAF, and ABS module (with the help of this lovely forum).
Checking codes tonight with my cool little reader.
Will post results.
Thanks for the info!
Amy

[1Wagon]

Code reader have me the following last week:

P0455
P1238
P1358
P0305 (I believe this is a new one)

Surprisingly, the car has been running quite well despite the chronic check engine light.
Since I have replaced the MAF, MAP, and ABS module/sensor?

Perhaps the oxygen sensors need to be replaced or find that big hose leak.
Not sure. All I know for now it's working!

[Klausc]

The p1358 and P0305 are both pointing to the coil over cylinder #5. It means that the coil is not always working and you are getting a misfire.

P1238 is probably a turbo control valve problem. From Volvospeed:
1. Most common: the turbocharger control valve goes bad. I see it a lot.

2. Somewhat common: The vacuum lines that connect to the intake fall off.

3. Very rare but I have seen it: The wastegate actuator seizes up and causes the turbo to overboost fiercely.
----------------------------------
I would guess that one of the three vacuum lines on the turbo control valve is loose or leaking.

The P0455 has nothing to do with driving and everything to do with vapors from the gas tank. No big deal, except it turns on the check engine light. The most likely culprit is the "J" hose back by the gas tank is cracked - a very common problem and fairly easily replaced. Something a mechanic with a lift can verify in a few minutes.

[abscate]

Welcome back, 1wagon plus new addition.

Echoing klaus above

That P1238 code is pointing to coil 5 as being potentially bad. Let's not jump in and replace it yet, but swap coil 1 and 5 to see if we can make the code move.
P0305 is cylinder 5 misfire. That's good. We are getting pretty sure that cylinder 5 has a problem, it could be plug, coil, wiring or all/some of the above.

Your 99 has coils-on-plugs ignition with no distributor. After you remove the plastic top of the motor, you unscrew 10mm bolts and just pull the coils straight up off the plugs.

P0455 points to turbo control valve. This could be loose hose or connector...inspect before throwing parts.

Your P0455 is that long standing evap code, not to worry for now.

I will send some pictures on covers/coils but I am 12,000 miles from my car right now!!

[abscate]

Pix on removal and testing coils with VOM here...

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 09#p325109

[abscate]

Mod note ..split latest issues from old thread.

[1Wagon]

Yes, we needed a split from previous topic since my car is no longer stalling at roundabouts and stop lights after replacing MAF, MAP, and ABS.

As for the performance of my Volvo this last week, I have a problem: Driving rough over 50 mph/2.5 RPM. I will check cylinder #5 (if I can figure that out myself). Must be coincidence but this issue did not arise until my last oil change.

Thanks for the info/references,
Amy

[abscate]

I think we number cylinders #1 on the RHS side of car (LHS when working under the hood) near the Timing belt. Number 5 will be far on the other side of course.

You don't need to replace that cover for the coil swap, you can leave it off for a few days. Make sure nothing is loose and dangly and can get caught in the timing belt though, thats a bad day.

You might want to try removing the cover and just looking at the coils at night - see if you see any sparking from the coils - that will explain the rough running. Look at number 5 first of course.

Do label them with a sharpie before you pull them out - they do look remarkably similar once they are on your workbench.

(and don't forget to update your sig...