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popping door stay '97 850 glt wagon

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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tcapp
Posts: 16
Joined: 15 February 2007
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Location: charlotte nc

popping door stay '97 850 glt wagon

Post by tcapp »

You guys did such a good job helping me out last weekend when I changed my thermostat and coolant sensor, that I thought I would fix my popping door stay this weekend. I found the instructions on how to drill and bolt, but I ran into a problem when I took a look at it last night. The previous owner must have had the same problem and his repair was to weld it. Now the weld has failed and the door stay seems to be "floating". After the weld job it doesn't look like there is enough good metal to bite onto. I haven't taken the door off to get a better look, but I was wondering if this has happened to anyone else and what the best solution would be. Thanks

MadeInJapan
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Post by MadeInJapan »

Pictures would help, but it appears that you may have to just use large washers behind where it is welded now if the weld is breaking. Either that, or have it rewedded again. Check around for reputable body shops if you choose this route, but be aware of wiring that could melt and cause electrical issues if you weld again- so it has to be done very carefully. If you do the larger washer route, in order to get them "inside" you may have to drill out a larger hole. Holding the washers and screws becomes an issue. I have found that a magnetic "pick-up" tool is decent in getting the pieces back behind the door pillar without dropping them.
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Baker
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Location: Dublin, CA

Post by Baker »

When welding is done be sure to follow special proceedures to prevent damage to the controls. I believe a proceedure is discussed in the 95 850 shop manual. Look at top of forum.

tcapp
Posts: 16
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Location: charlotte nc

Post by tcapp »

I have just taken another look and I don't like what I see. This thing has surely been welded in the past and although the welder must have been careful enough no to damage any electrical, it doesn't look as if he was a very good welder. I've got to get the door off this wekend and see if i have enough meat to get a good grab. Without taking it apart I don't know how big the door stay is behind the frame of the door. How long of a bolt can I use? Is a sheet metal screw an alternative to nut and bolt? I'll let you know what I find.

MadeInJapan
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Post by MadeInJapan »

I would use bolts and locking nuts (or lock tite)....sheet metal, I feel would pull away.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

greasefingerss
Posts: 208
Joined: 25 January 2007
Year and Model: 850 wagon 1994
Location: Northern VA, USA

Post by greasefingerss »

tcapp wrote:Is a sheet metal screw an alternative to nut and bolt?
No a sheet metal screw would only have 1 to 2 threads of holding force. It will snap off. A bolt, nut, & washers hold it with much more surface area since they join it differently than a screw thread.
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tcapp
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Location: charlotte nc

Post by tcapp »

just got home from work and its a beautiful day and still have a little light left. Started poking around and thought I'd do the job right now. Well that was before I started to take it apart. My door stay was welded completlyaround and has now broken all the way around. When I take the torx bolt out of the door stay, the part on the car side can fall into the frame. Even if I can save it while taking the door off, how do I hold it in the correct position when trying to drill and bolt? Need some help.

CarVolvo
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Location: Bit West of Toronto, Canada

Post by CarVolvo »

i would suggest you take a picture.. not sure if your just talking about the door stop or the connection to the frame.
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tcapp
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Location: charlotte nc

Post by tcapp »

Sorry if i havn't been clear. I would post a picture, but Idon't have a way to do that right now. The top and bottom hinge are fine. In between is the door stay that bolts to the door, and is welded to the body. the stay that I'm talking about is two pieces and has a torx bolt that connects the the door to the body. When you look at the fix that shows drilling and bolting through the spot welds, that is me and my problem. The thing that makes this a little different is that mine has bee welded in the past and that weld has failed. There is nothing holding the body half on. If and when I remove the torx bolt the half of the dooor stay that was origonally welded to the body can now fall through into the body of the car. I am thinking now that I need to take the chance and when I take it apart I need to carefully get a string on it so that I don't lose it during the door removal. Maybe then I can secure it with a vice grip and drill the holes. If I do lose it maybe I can put a strap like the olden days just so it won't fly away in the wind.

CarVolvo
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Post by CarVolvo »

i am thinking your saying the brass coloured part is broken.. which is held with two bolts on the door .

as apposed to the one torx bolt which is on the pillar of the car?
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94 854 20v non-turbo 215,000 KM ..new engine

87 745 B230 non-turbo 250,000 KM (newest edition Jan '07)

86 244 GL B230 non-turbo 460,000+ KM

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