1997 Volvo 855 GLT Dipstick Tube Seal Ring Replacement

[jreed]

During a routine oil change last week I noticed a little oil seeping out around the base of the dipstick tube where it enters the oil pan. I ordered a new seal ring from IPD (using the ad link above -- great prices these days at IPD!) and installed it this morning. There were several write-ups already on the site about part numbers but none that I could find that showed the procedure...

Step 1: Identifying the source of the leak at the base of the dipstick tube:

Leak at base of dipstick tube

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Step 2: This swivel head stubby 1/4" drive ratchet proved to be very useful to get at the bolt holding the dipstick tube in place. Use a 12mm socket for the bolt.

Useful swivel head stubby 1/4" drive ratchet with 12mm socket

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Step 3: Loosen the 12mm bolt -- fairly awkward access. To break torque on the bolt I had to use a longer handled swivel head 1/4" ratchet.

Somewhat difficult to access the bolt

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Step 4: Clip off the tie wrap (if you have one installed between the power steering line and the top of the dipstick tube) and remove the dipstick tube from the oil pan by pulling upward.

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Step 5: View of sealing surface. I wiped this a little bit with a wet rag to clean it up.

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Step 6: Cleaning up tube and inspecting old seal ring. The old ring was still pliable -- no cracks, swelling or shrinking visible.

After removing the old ring and cleaning the end of the tube thoroughly, I put on a new ring and then reinstalled the tube in the oil pan, put the bolt back in (medium tight), and installed a new tie wrap to hold the power steering line to the oil dipstick.

Not a bad job, just difficult to reach the bolt and sealing surface.
Good luck!

[cn90]

Very nice, thanks!

The key thing about this job is: it does not matter what car you own:
- Clean the outside with a stiff toothbrush to prevent debris from falling inside.
Some brake cleaner will help.
- I use only dealer O-ring, whether it is Honda, Toyota, or Volvo. This is b/c they fit perfectly and does not leak. Aftermarket O-ring is a hit-and-miss issue.
Plus...dealer O-ring is cheap anyway, this is the rare occasion that I buy parts from dealer(s).

[shawnmacananny]

I just did mine yesterday, not bad at all. I wish i could say the same for the oil cooler line bolt behind the alternator haha

[jreed]

Agreed! That's one of the worst ones of all time no matter what tools you've got to work with.

[pedal2metal]

I just did this job 6 months ago, and noticed the dip stick handle broke 3wks ago... What stunk was that I ordered a new repro. dipstick & it was too big for my current tube! I did not realize the '98s (& earlier) are NLA. (I guess I could have went to a junkyard.) So, then I had to order the newer style, larger sized tube for the .dipstick that was way too big for my '98! Argggg. Yea, 12mm is a pain to get to.

[JimBee]

+1 on the difficulty of cracking the bracket bolt. I used a long extension and got it from underneath.

I cleaned up the old o-ring that looked like the one in the picture, also cleaned up the exposed end of the tube and sprayed it with some silicone, then added the new o-ring to enclose that end space. Finally, a little silicone spray on both o-rings helped with reinstalling the tube. It was tight, but I don't think it will ever leak.