1997 850 Problems after Change to Synthetic Oil

[abscate]

The RMS has to surround the torque converter shaft or clutch pinion shaft, so it's always a big job to fix.

The seals are designed to last for the life of the car, understand its severe neglect of the PCV that blows them out.

[theobviousfaker]

An access port to the RMS simply doesn't make sense. It's right at the interface between engine and transmission, no "access port" could get you there without taking off the transmission.
Also, these things usually don't blow. The PCV system on my brick has been in near perfect condition when I checked it at 180k miles, but the RMS leaked anyway. So thats just bad luck... probably the main reason, why the car changed owners often and quickly before I got it. Nobody crazy enough to put 1000 euros into that old pest or to do it himself, but me

On RWD cars its usually a lot easier to drop the transmission. But then our Brick wouldn't be so spacious in the back to begin with..

Thumbs up for doing it yourself! That stuff is a lot easier than it seem. While I changed my RMS I even did the worst thing possible.. I scratched the sealing surface on the engine block while removing the old RMS! But not bad enough to affect it.. hasn't lost a drop of oil in over 15k miles.

[dosbricks]

BTW, what is the rag for on the dipstick -- to stop the fumes from rising up? and entering interior?
To keep the Dipstick in place...

To absorb any oil blowing up the dipstick tube and prevent it from splattering all over your engine if you get out on the highway and drive 70mph.

To answer your other questions, the seal under distributor is called the intake cam rear seal. Since your former mechanic "glued" it in place, I would leave it alone if it doesn't leak any more.

The one under the camshaft position sensor is called the exhaust cam rear seal.

[plumsmooth]

Thank you very much Dos-bricks...

Because I want to show him the oil on the exhaust cam rear seal.

I hope it splattered over form the intake cam seal.

However this might be my first perfect introductory repair and a way to find a little peace after this really annoying week...

Thanks again!

[precopster]

A change to synthetic can't spontaneously cause a seal to pop. Synthetic oil doesn't magically increase PCV pressure.

Lack of PCV maintenance over a long term will make seals pop.

All things considered you may even fix this Volvo

[rspi]

I am going to show him tomorrow the oil on the cam sensor.
Unless it spurted over from the adjacent cam seal under the distributor cap then I also have another Cam Seal Leak.

Honestly the most draining part of this is dealing with this angry male ego energy.
I have purged a few angry male friends from my life and this guy reminds me of the worst part of my dad.

Do I call them left and right rear cam seals?

There is an intake came and an exhaust cam. The intake cam has the cap, rotor, wires, etc., connected to it. The exhaust cam has the cam sensor on it.

However, that is the least of your problems. I am simply stumped at your stubbornness in this entire situation. I know I'm getting out of line here but I'm going to write it anyway. Hopefully it will help you and those close to you... Why would you continue to torture that poor mechanic and yourself with your continued visits to that guy's shop? He clearly has his way of doing things, which works for him. Besides that, several people in this thread has urged you to "walk away" for the better of your car and personal frustration. Videos, clear instructions, experienced recommendations, but yet, the persistence to prove something to that poor mechanic continues.

The guy CLEARLY is NOT an experienced Volvo mechanic and it appears that he has no intentions of becoming one. The generous people that have made post and replied to your concerns ARE VOLVO owners and service these cars daily. At a quick glance, if they (the community of people that have taken the time to post in THIS thread) disclosed their Volvo ownership experience in 1. Volvo's owned, 2. Years driving Volvo's and 3. Miles behind the wheel of Volvo's you'd likely get 1. Over 100 Volvo's owned, 2. Over 300 years of Volvo driving experience and 3. over 5 million miles of Volvo driving experience. Myself alone, I have probably over 700,000 miles of Volvo driving, 20 years of Volvo service history and have owned in excess of 15 Volvo's. I say all that to say, PLEASE TAKE A STEP BACK AND LISTEN A LITTLE. You really have no need to return to that guy's shop and try to prove anything to him. To be honest with you, I'm kind of getting a little concerned for your physical safety.

Then we top if off with comments about his ego and your dad's arrogance? Geeesss!

[rspi]

[plumsmooth]

PLEASE TAKE A STEP BACK AND LISTEN A LITTLE.

Ok thank you RSPI. Anyway yesterday was our last day working together -- we are getting a divorce-- as he insisted on, and stood by his diagnostic approach as being fair, got incredible angry with me questioning his approach; and he offered me no discount and was insulted that I asked -- and more than usual seemed concerned about making sure I pay him for the suspension work... So I paid him another 100 toward another bill of 176.

I would have preferred him not moving on to suspension for but I guess that is how he does things. My mom said some mechanics are like that: They just go ahead and fix what they see broken without consent assuming that you will trust their integrity and decision making. Meanwhile I do not think he realizes that the exhaust cam seal is also leaking.

The last thing I am going to do [yes I am being stubborn] is at least show him this so he can consider that 2 seals going within a week of 3 short trips after this change to synthetic might not be a coincidence.

Unfortunately, their is the noxious odor of burning oil in my cabin, some of which is hopefully the leftover from the intake cam seal spew. OR it is the exhaust cam leaking slowly and burning up.

In the meantime I am going to gather my tools, see what I have, see what I need, and order a pair of OEM Volvo cam shaft seals. And I will try not to ask further questions unless absolutely necessary.

And I will raise my dipstick -- and check my PCV today with a glove...

And I realize this thread is due for a closing and I acknowledge the selfish aspect of personal therapy here. And I do thank for it but I guess I should save some of my needs for further mechanical reality!

One more thing and I realize this forum isn't about this and or there is a small place for this kind of thing at the bottom of the forum directory but:

When is it fair to question; and when should a mechanic take some responsibility for misdiagnosis and a round about process that ends of costing a customer a bunch of money before the actual problem is found?

Was this a novice mistake or is the idea of where the water is coming from that challenging that one would't look a couple of screws deeper toward the engine when the rotor was already removed?

[rspi]

Please do NOT re frame from asking questions or seeking help here for your Volvo car needs. The primary purpose of this form is to assist any Volvoite get their car in top running condition. Ask away and in no time you will be a better service tech for YOUR car than most mechanics in your area.

As for dealing with your mechanic... if a mechanic does work that has not been authorized, you have EVERY right to dispute payment for such services and even seek legal action to recoup financial damages against such. I have done it myself on more than one occasion.

[precopster]

As for dealing with your mechanic... if a mechanic does work that has not been authorized, you have EVERY right to dispute payment for such services and even seek legal action to recoup financial damages against such. I have done it myself on more than one occasion.

Unless of course after many years of dealing with him you have repeatedly allowed him to do the same and have set up a pattern of behaviour that he expects. Then no adjudicator with common sense will rule in your favour.

Personally I won't and never have allowed mechanics to perform work without authorisation unless the extra work was encountered in the same job area on the car. ie: a suspension strut teardown job where they find a broken bump stop making no sense to put it together with a faulty component. Even then I would want a quote if it's expensive.