1996 850T something fuel oriented, i think

[abscate]

You start it up just like normal and drive.

No need to fool with gas. All we are doing is making sure the fuel pump is getting electricity via the relay.

The relay is a common failure on these cars.

[kimothyanne]

Thanks to all.

I went ahead with the fuel relay reset instructions sent my way and the car started right up! And so far, I've gone around the block once and it didn't stall.

However, I do not have an "owner's manual" and my mechanic manual doesn't have a section explaining the dash lights.

Right when this whole debacle started, a light came on that I'd never seen before. Down by the tripometer, it looked like a little sun w/ rays.

That is now gone but that "arrow" which is next to the "tracs on/off" light is now blinking. What does that mean?

Also, I now have a pronounced "tick-tick-tick" coming from the engine so I guess I should ask; Are oil puddles (small ones) supposed to be under the spark plug cover?

Thanks again to all who've helped me out on this. I'm going to hold on to this car (and avoid the Japanese models) as long as I can.

Appreciation from,
kimberly

[kimothyanne]

Oh, I forgot to mention.

* I also pulled out the fuel pump relay and re-seated it. Maybe that was the trick?

My main question now is, should there be oil under the spark-plug case?

Thanks again,
k

[abscate]

Every time you touch the relay, you can cure a sticky one, so that could have done it. It will fail again though, but now you know where it lives....

Oil in the spark plugs is probably left over from the PCV pressure problem. Clean it out and see if comes back.

You can download your user manual here..

http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/199 ... 50_000.htm

The flashing up arrow is detecting a fault in the transmission operation. Don't panic on this if the car is driving and shifting well. These things can be bratty kids and report minor problems that can even self correct. We can work on this once we know your major issues are resolved.


Your starburst light is a recognition that your husband appreciates your mechanic skills by cleaning house this week. It only comes on in winter though. Instrument light number 19 in the manual above.

[kimothyanne]

I am going to have to inform my husband of the meaning of the "starburst" light. He'll be so excited to know that.

Now the car is starting up every time. The ticking is probably the same noise it had before only it was so much louder with the hood opened at 90 degrees.

So now I need to learn what to do about that P0120 code. Anybody have an idea?

Also, THANK YOU for the downloadable User's Manual. Y'all are great. I have been without a car for several weeks and I gotta tell you, we need better public transportation!

[cn90]

Keep a jumper wire in the glovebox. You never know you need it.
Detail below:

DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Fuel System Troubleshooting Tips
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=52252


PS: What did you end up doing, new relay vs capacitor repair?

[erikv11]

... So now I need to learn what to do about that P0120 code. Anybody have an idea? ...

The P0120 code suggests that the Throttle Position Sensor (also called the TPS) has failed.

A couple of previous posts commented about this as well. You can get another TPS from the junkyard or buy a new one. If you go with the new one I would buy it from here: http://www.autohausaz.com/search/produc ... n%20Sensor or from here http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,catalog ... 22001.html. You can go see if they have it at Autozone or whatever but look at it before you purchase it and do NOT buy one that is not made by Bosch. Must be made by Bosch on this part, otherwise you are just asking for more trouble

[abscate]

That TPS sensor is also probably also triggering your flashing arrow. Another problem about to fall to your expertise and another 230 bucks SO owes you. Isn't this fun?

[rspi]

This is a video that every P80 Volvo owner should watch. As explained, the fuel pump relay issue will return, just replace it.

[kimothyanne]

Hello all,

I will admit I had gotten very frustrated and quit on my car for a week or so. It would start up but as soon as it was under a load it would either stall out or start surging, almost stalling.

Last summer I replaced the seals on my fuel injectors which turned out to be "after market" models. Took a bit to get the correct seals. At the beginning of my latest "experiment in mechanics" I had pulled the injector rail.

Unfortunately, the poor lighting in our garage coupled with my newly diagnosed cataracts combined in my overlooking that three of the five upper injector seals had just fallen off.

Since I've been able to get the car out and about (while running like poop) enabled me to finally back it in. I decided to retrace my steps and found the three missing seals. Fortunately, I saved the old ones as they weren't all THAT bad. I also drained the injector rail again.

Now it starts right up, my gas mileage is back, at it idles well. No surging whatsoever. However, it seems that when I slow down to park it likes to stall.

The vacuum leak which probably started this whole megillah still needs repair (from under the manifold to the PVC valve). However, I have paid two different shops to fix it so that latest one is kind of beholden to fixing that...thankfully.

I cleared my P0120 code, drove it about 8 miles with no return. I plan to take it to the shop so they can fix that vacuum leak but I was wondering...anyone else have an idea as to why it would stall?

There is NO smoke coming from the oil cap when removed (while car is running) nor from the dip stick tube.

Oh, I also put in a new from the dealership, Volvo Fuel Relay.

I appreciate all of your input. If anyone has an idea about this (including if I should get yet another set of upper & lower injector seals) is, as always, appreciated!

Thanks to all,
kimberly