Login Register

2004 T6 DIY Thermostat Fix - Easy Tutorial

A mid-size luxury crossover SUV, the Volvo XC90 made its debut in 2002 at the Detroit Motor Show. Recognized for its safety, practicality, and comfort, the XC90 is a popular vehicle around the world. The XC90 proved to be very popular, and very good for Volvo's sales numbers, since its introduction in model year 2003 (North America). P2 platform.
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Volvo XC90 T6 DIY Thermostat Fix - Easy Tutorial
Post Reply
kickin_it
Posts: 213
Joined: 27 October 2011
Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
Location: Franklin, Tennesse

Volvo Repair Database 2004 T6 DIY Thermostat Fix - Easy Tutorial

Post by kickin_it »

I recently had the pleasure working on a 2004 XC90 T6. The issue at hand was a bad water pump so I replaced everything I took off: timing belt, accessory belt, tensioner, pulley, water pump, thermostat, and the dreaded nipple on the thermostat. I browsed this and other Volvo forums and found some great ideas for the housing fix just no step-by-step with part numbers. I decided to take notes and pictures throughout my repair which turned out pretty damn good I must say.

I started by removing the cover of the housing, I suppose you could just remove the housing as a whole. The cover is held on by 3 - 10mm bolts.
T-stat cover - 3 - 10mm bolts
T-stat cover - 3 - 10mm bolts
thermostat.jpg (195.34 KiB) Viewed 7536 times
T-Stat cover and gasket removed with bolts.
T-stat cover w/ bolts
T-stat cover w/ bolts
thermostat_1.jpg (148.56 KiB) Viewed 7536 times
I chose to remove the sensor from the housing, others may choose to remove the housing with sensor in place. I broke the nut loose with a 3/4 inch but it may be a 19mm either should suffice, break loose and spin with fingers.
Sensor; used 3/4 inch wrench to break loose
Sensor; used 3/4 inch wrench to break loose
thermostat_2.jpg (167.76 KiB) Viewed 7536 times
I then removed the housing from the motor by removing the 4 - T40 bolts. I used T40 socket and ratchet.
Housing; T40 bolts
Housing; T40 bolts
thermostat_3.jpg (157.58 KiB) Viewed 7536 times
Housing removed with sensor removed and bolts.
housing removed
housing removed
thermostat_4.jpg (134.78 KiB) Viewed 7536 times
Motor with thermostat and housing removed with sensor still attached.
motor; no t-stat housing
motor; no t-stat housing
thermostat_5.jpg (152.99 KiB) Viewed 7536 times
Here are the parts I picked up from the blue big box store, I went to the orange but no wanted to help. I would rather use Kobalt tools than Husky anyways.
Parts Needed
2 - LFA712 Elbow
1 - LFA776 Adapter(Bushing)
1 - LFA716 Pipe
1 - LFA298 Hose Barb
1 - Roll of thread tape or wrap
Tools Needed
Clamp or Vise
11/32'' Drill bit
1/8'' pipe tap
Drill
parts
parts
thermostat_6.jpg (183.47 KiB) Viewed 7536 times
I am not sure of the size of the drill bit but I first drilled out the broken plastic nipple. I then used the 11/32" to drill a larger hole where the nipple used to be. I then used the 1/8" pipe tap to thread the new hole. This was the trickiest part and probably the most important. My tap was not tapered so I actually used a 3/8 bit to widen the mouth of the hole about 1/8 of an inch deep to allow the tap to sit in the hole before tapping. I C-clamped the housing to the table and started twisting tap using crescent wrench.
tap
tap
thermostat_7.jpg (185.75 KiB) Viewed 7536 times
I then attached the pipe and one of the elbows. I used thread tape/wrap on every thread. I then attached the elbow and pipe to the housing and tightened. Make sure to pay attention to the direction of the pipe, you want the hole for the sensor to the lower left hand side and the pipe pointing at you. I replaced the thermostat with new o-ring and a new gasket between the cover and housing. I decided to install as one unit. I reattached the sensor and tightened it down.
t-stat
t-stat
thermostat_8.jpg (141.12 KiB) Viewed 7536 times
T-Stat installed with sensor and new fittings attached. Note: there is a plastic piece on the back timing cover that will need to be modified. The easiest and best looking would be to use a dremmel or something similar. I did not have one on hand and opted for some pliers and just "snapped" the plastic. This is required or the housing will not sit flush.
installed t-stat
installed t-stat
thermostat_9.jpg (128.68 KiB) Viewed 7536 times
Next step is to attach the timing cover. The new brass pipe will fit into the existing hole without any modifications. Prepare the rest of the fittings by placing the adapter and the barb together, again using thread wrap. You must first attach JUST the elbow to the pipe sticking through the cover, tighten it with the elbow pointing upward THEN attach the adapter/barb to the elbow.
fittings
fittings
thermostat_10.jpg (146.58 KiB) Viewed 7536 times
Here is a shot after just the elbow was installed and tightened. Note that the elbow is pointing upward in the direction the hose needs to run.
elbow
elbow
thermostat_11.jpg (115.1 KiB) Viewed 7536 times
A shot after the adapter/barb attached to the elbow and everything is tightened down w/o hose attached.
barb fitting
barb fitting
thermostat_12.jpg (173.55 KiB) Viewed 7536 times
I used the trusty screw clamps and used the existing hose without cutting or modifying the hose in any way to the expansion tank and to the nipple we just installed.
install complete
install complete
And you are done! I hope you enjoyed the tutorial and I was able to save you some money. All in all I spent less than $20 on parts and I already had tools needed on hand. Any questions or comments please leave below, thanks guys.

User avatar
matthew1
Site Admin
Posts: 14463
Joined: 14 September 2002
Year and Model: 850 T5, 1997
Location: Denver, Colorado, US
Has thanked: 2652 times
Been thanked: 1240 times
Contact:

Post by matthew1 »

Beauty writeup, Kickin It. Scheduled for addition to the Volvo Repair Database in the XC90 section.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.

Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!

1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

How to Thank someone for their post

Image

kickin_it
Posts: 213
Joined: 27 October 2011
Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
Location: Franklin, Tennesse

Post by kickin_it »

Thanks Matthew. I am working on another tutorial for T6 timing components replacement. Tutorials should work with S80 T6 as well as the XC90 T6.

forelsol
Posts: 1
Joined: 5 June 2012
Year and Model: XC90 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA

Post by forelsol »

Hey Man - Sweet write up. I broke off the thermostat housing nipple early today and need to rebuild the thermostat housing. Anyway - this is super helpful! Thanks again.

dustydawg89
Posts: 1
Joined: 29 September 2014
Year and Model: 2008
Location: GA

Post by dustydawg89 »

Is this the same process for a 2008? Thanks in advance!

songzunhuang
MVS Moderator
Posts: 374
Joined: 8 January 2009
Year and Model: 98 V70 T5
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 30 times

Post by songzunhuang »

Argg, wish I saw this earlier.

I ended up buying the aluminum replacement step from URO. As it turns out, it's slightly smaller in diameter than the original plastic nipple so now I have a leaky connection at the coupler. I thought it my be that the o-ring in the coupler was getting old, so I ordered a new expansion tank hose - which comes with a coupler at the end. I'm waiting on that part now.

If that doesn't work, I'm sending all the stuff back and doing what you did.

Here's my writeup - https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 10&t=68114
Song Huang

1998 V70 T5 - Hurt your eyes red
2000 Honda S2000 - Berlina Black
1984 BMW 633CSi - Dolphin Grey
2024 Lexus - Eminent White Pearl
2004 XC90 T6 AWD Ruby red (RIP)

songzunhuang
MVS Moderator
Posts: 374
Joined: 8 January 2009
Year and Model: 98 V70 T5
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 30 times

Post by songzunhuang »

Well, my new expansion hose came in the mail and I tried to put it on the metal URO nipple. Epic fail. The URO part is just too small a diameter to get a good seal.

I needed the car so I got 1/4" fuel line and a 3/8" brass elbow and put it in place temporarily, but with this temporary setup, I can't get the front timing cover on. However, it'll have to do until I can do this permanent fix.

This is the best way by far I've seen by far.
Song Huang

1998 V70 T5 - Hurt your eyes red
2000 Honda S2000 - Berlina Black
1984 BMW 633CSi - Dolphin Grey
2024 Lexus - Eminent White Pearl
2004 XC90 T6 AWD Ruby red (RIP)

songzunhuang
MVS Moderator
Posts: 374
Joined: 8 January 2009
Year and Model: 98 V70 T5
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 30 times

Post by songzunhuang »

Well this fix has worked very well for me and it's been about a week. One thing different for me was that the 1.5" pipe wasn't long enough. I could spin the barbed portion around because it was blocked by the timing belt cover. I ended up using a 2" piece of pipe and that fixed it right up.

Also one other issue I had was that the 90 degree elbow in the housing had to be modified slightly. In order to thread the elbow all the way down, I had to file of some of the lower corners of the brass. They were interfering with a molded hump on the housing that was very close to the tapped hole for the elbow. I had to file about 1/8" off.

Overall a wonderful fix. I'm busy sending all the parts back from the previous efforts. Thanks again.
Song Huang

1998 V70 T5 - Hurt your eyes red
2000 Honda S2000 - Berlina Black
1984 BMW 633CSi - Dolphin Grey
2024 Lexus - Eminent White Pearl
2004 XC90 T6 AWD Ruby red (RIP)

Wichitas80
Posts: 11
Joined: 1 November 2015
Year and Model: S80 2002
Location: Wichita, KS

Post by Wichitas80 »

Having the same problem and I’m in the middle of the repair.

kickin_it said
“Note: there is a plastic piece on the back timing cover that will need to be modified. The easiest and best looking would be to use a dremmel or something similar. I did not have one on hand and opted for some pliers and just "snapped" the plastic. This is required or the housing will not sit flush.”
Kick_it is correct. It won’t fit without trimming that piece of plastic. My concern is that the piece of plastic is there for a reason. Should I be concerned about trimming it?

User avatar
shiloh51933
Posts: 1005
Joined: 5 March 2010
Year and Model: 04 XC70/'98 V70XC
Location: New York
Has thanked: 28 times
Been thanked: 17 times

Post by shiloh51933 »

Thank you for posting your write up, excellent work. I'm swapping out the thermostat housing, thermostat, temp sensor, every gasket, hardware, hoses to coolant reservoir and upgraded the plastic elbow with a brass elbow from IPDUSA.COM. My question to you is this: Did you lose a lot of coolant when you popped off the Thermostat Housing w/thermostat?
I was thinking of possibly draining the entire system. The T belt, tensioner, idler, water pump was completed at last interval and isn't due again.
If U Wanna Play U Gotta Pay!!
Present Volvo Ownership:
2008 Volvo XC90 V8 Black
2004 Volvo XC70 OEM-HID model Silver
Previously Owned Volvo:
1996 Volvo 850 GLT Silver
1998 Volvo V70XC Dark Blue
1998 Volvo V70XC Dark Blue
2000 Volvo V70XC/SE Dark Blue
2004 Volvo XC90 T6 Gold

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post