BEJinFbk wrote:Here's some starter circuit info: PNP is under the hood (3/71).Swedish Iron wrote:can someone tell me how to remove the shifter plate to get to the neutral switch?
Thanks
So is the starter relay (2/35).
I'd start by pulling the relay
and metering the socket while
an assistant turns the key.
The starter relay is 2/35, show in the fuse box with the big fuses.
You should see 12 volts on socket 86 when the key is turned into start.
That will indicate that your ignition switch is functional.
You should see a solid ground on socket 85.
( This is a switched ground that's
supplied by the anti-theft system. )
That tells you that the anti-theft module (2/76)
is happy with the world and will allow you to
energize the starter relay and start the car.
You should see 12 volts on socket 30.
This is the supply voltage that the relay
passes along to the starter solenoid
when the starter relay is energized.
Hope this helps.
Hi,
I'm working through an intermittent no-crank no-start on my '99 V70T5
Today we have crank, for the last few days no-crank. Ive been reading
a ton of posts and following the suggestions.
Ive gone thru a lot of the basics: batt, cables, connections, jumpered the
starter relay, replaced the starter relay, and installed a new PNP switch because
rowing the gear selector seemed to help the problem.
I just followed this procedure described above and everything metered fine except
I read .557 to .620 ohms between socket 85 and batt neg. while in KPIII
Right now I cannot open the pdf wiring diagram (brand new Win 8.1 laptop, grrr)
to see where the anti-theft wire feeding socket 85 comes from. Id like to
run that down and check for anything that could be causing this resistance.
John
Raleigh
'99 V70 T5 125Kmi
ps- meter is a Sperry






