2001 v70XC Time to cut and run?

dbrick · Post by **dbrick** » 27 Jan 2015, 12:26

Opinions needed and appreciated.
I purchased a very cheap 01 xc70 as is, knowing it was a risk, but not fully knowing the potential problems they can have. My bad decision, but no regrets. 180,000 miles, dealer maintained for the first 140,000, then no records. So I've been using this forum, which is great, to chase down issues on a 2001, fixed a few. Front struts and spring seats, oil change and replace stuck open thermostat solved a few. Car is driving OK, still a few issues remain, clogged PCV and idling problems, needs tires asap. My Wife loves the way it rides, plan was to fix it up, but today it snowed.

and I was able to confirm the AWD is not working. No awful noises, but with the worn out tires, I can spin the front wheels for 30+ seconds and the rears never kick in at all. It's also had a speed related whine, probably angle gear/ driveshaft/ VC, so it's going to get expensive.

I'm into this car for about $2000.00 total at this point, purchase price and parts put in. I can sell the car as-is for close to that or trade it in and take a minor loss. It was a gamble, so I lost.
Next step on this car is tires, $500.00 and fix AWD, so another $400.00-$1000.00 DIY and probably an ETM soon, $500.00. We still want an XC70, AWD is an important feature, so the thought is get a newer Volvo checked out properly and with good maintenance history, some warranty and pay going rate.

So the question, I can have a 2001 with $4000.00 invested and wait for the next issue or a later model XC70, 2003-2004 for $5000.00- $6000.00 or a 2005-2007 for $6000.00-$9000.00. Even another AWD Volvo model.
Appreciate the help.
Dave

Post by **JRL** » 27 Jan 2015, 15:45

Post by **xHeart** » 28 Jan 2015, 14:47

Repair will come with all those you list, frequent with hi-miles.
If the body and interior is desirable, and will stand for another 100,000 miles, then everything else can be repaired.

Our Robert Spinner says, if the engine is good and compression where it is suppose to, you have a good car.

You can bring it back to life with few repairs at a time -- as your pocketbook permits.
Keep it running.

dbrick · Post by **dbrick** » 28 Jan 2015, 15:49

xHeart wrote:Repair will come with all those you list, frequent with hi-miles.
If the body and interior is desirable, and will stand for another 100,000 miles, then everything else can be repaired.

Our Robert Spinner says, if the engine is good and compression where it is suppose to, you have a good car.

You can bring it back to life with few repairs at a time -- as your pocketbook permits.
Keep it running.

I've been working on and with old Datsuns for years, and the one cardinal rule is to buy the best car that you can afford, not the cheap one and spend the rest of your budget on repairs unless you want to gamble and maybe lose.

The Volvo is close to that tipping point though, decent body, good interior etc. Needs a breather service, probably subframe bushings and the like and whatever is wrong with the AWD fixed, all are do-able and if it was summer time, I might agree, but my repairs are all outdoors and it's 10 degrees, so it will be 3 months before anything large can be attempted or compression and things can be checked. It's on Craigslist now, if I can get out close to even, OK, if not then plan B is fix it.

Oh, and big kudos to Xemodex, I bought a replacement ETM but didn't put it in yet so they will accept for a return and full refund.

Post by **oragex** » 28 Jan 2015, 19:53

Selling it for $2000 and saving another $4000 in repairs, will get you a nice $6000, a good starting point to look for a 2005 and up xc70. The 2003-2006 still had sensitive to fluid change gearboxes, the 2002-2003 had the DIM issue (easy fix if you know a fine electronics repair shop), I believe the 2004 had the ugly CEM issue. 2005 and up should be a safer buy. I believe a more robust awd with Haldex was offered from 2006 or 2005 and up

dbrick · Post by **dbrick** » 31 Jan 2015, 21:11

Thanks for the input, issue resolved.

Problem 1 solved..A co-workers son wants to buy the 2001 for $2000.00 and understands it may be a loser, so all is good, except I may have to help him fix it and I have 4 brand new tires I can't return.

Then today, we found and bought a clean 2005 with 100K and good service records for $5995.00 from a local Honda dealer. $1000.00 typo on the web ad and they honored it. Gotta love car shopping the last day of a bad sales month.
Ironically enough, got it 40 miles home, and a few hours later started it up to go out to dinner and it now has exactly the same problem as the 2001, although not as bad, and then the CEL came on.

Idle dips and lights dim for a second and then it flares up a little and goes back to idle. Cleared up after a minute, but CEL still on, did the same coming back home. The 2005 did have a Mass airflow code that was cleared by the selling dealer when they serviced it, so I have a clue, will look tomorrow and maybe fix both. 2001 does it all the time at idle and more pronounced but never set code.
Otherwise 2005 is great, AWD works and I'm 80,000 miles ahead of the game with a 90 day warranty. Might be a poltergeist in my driveway?

Post by **SuperHerman** » 31 Jan 2015, 23:36

Check the Electric Throttle Body. It is most likely dirty and/or failing. Buy a Sacer rebuild unit off the net and do a rebuild on both of them. I think I paid about $140 for mine. Not too difficult and mine is now running extremely well after rebuild. I assume the 2005 uses an updated unit that suffers the same fate as the 2001, but double check. Let's be real, the 2005 has 100k, the 2001 many more, but no part lasts for ever. Before doing anything - pull the codes - the CEL is telling you something. FYI - my 2001 never triggered the light, but the symptoms were all I needed.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 31 Jan 2015, 23:45

I just did a quick search, the ETM rebuild does not list 2005, but does cover the 2001. Pull the codes and report back on the 2005.

Post by **oragex** » 01 Feb 2015, 12:28

Given the dimming lights, perhaps have a look around the alternator, including the alternator clutch, the tensioner of the belt, the A/C clutch (known to seize). Do a careful inspection. A low voltage can trigger a CEL because it's also causing misfire.
At 100k miles or so, the timing belt along with the tensioner are due (the water pump can stay until the 2nd timing belt). The awd Haldex is sensitive on a 2005, have a specialist inspect it and eventually replace the fluid.

Post by **abscate** » 07 Feb 2015, 08:16

The ETB on the 2005 is not the Magnetti morelli one like your 2001... You won't have trouble with it. It's a Bosch unit IIRC. You will find very little service info about the later ETM here....

That's a sweet price for a clean 2005... I paid a lot more for mine, and I didn't even get the automatic...