1998 V70 Wagon Front control arms

johnhb · Post by **johnhb** » 08 Feb 2015, 18:34

When replacing the driveshaft boots, I discovered that the RH control arm just drops down when I released the ball joint, but the LH control arm has a spring like feel to it and when pushed down it springs back up. The Haynes manual makes no mention as to whether the control arm should have a spring back feel or should just drop. Can someone with more experience than me let me know if the RH or the LH control arm is faulty.

Thanks
johnhb

Post by **cuhfs** » 08 Feb 2015, 18:47

I am unaware of any spring-back. I have replaced several.

johnhb · Post by **johnhb** » 08 Feb 2015, 19:36

From your reply cufhs - do I assume that the LH control arm is faulty because is springs back up when I push it down whereas the RH control arm is ok because it freely drops downs with no resistance or spring back effect?

Post by **erikv11** » 08 Feb 2015, 19:48

The control arm that drops down has worn out or broken bushings where it mounts to the subframe.

The other one (that springs back) is in good shape at the bushings, but of course check the ball joint too.

When you put in a new control arm, be sure to pre-load it before tightening, to not ruin the new bushings.

Post by **deepsouth** » 08 Feb 2015, 20:10

Just replaced the driver's side CV axle on my 1998 AWD V70--a bit of a PITA. There is a definite spring to good control arms and they should not simply drop down.

Eric

johnhb · Post by **johnhb** » 09 Feb 2015, 23:25

Thank you all for your inputs. I had the feeling that the RH control arm should not just drop down but wasn't sure.

By preloading I assume you mean to connect the ball joint and then tighten the bushes.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 10 Feb 2015, 07:02

The preload procedure that seems to work well is to jack the bottom of the control arm up to a point where the center of the hub is about even with the bottom door seam, more or less at normal ride height. After the control arm is jacked up, torque down the bolts through the bushings that hold the control arm to the subframe. If you torque them down with the suspension dropped all the way it puts a constant strain, axially, on the bushings and it can cause premature failure of the bushings themselves.

The sway bar will fight you a bit once you get near the point that you want to be at and in some cases it can actually lift the car off of the jackstand. You don't want to be crawling around in the wheel well without the jackstand supporting the car so if it starts to lift off drop it just a bit until you are back on the jackstand even if you aren't all the way even with the seam. It will be close enough.

...Lee

johnhb · Post by **johnhb** » 11 Feb 2015, 15:19

Thank you, Ozark Lee. Your advice is much appreciated.
Has anyone purchased the control arms from overseas? I am looking at FCP Euro who seem to have reasonable prices. Local Burson store quoted AU$1000 for the pair of control arms.
Also does anyone know how I can get the original OE number for these control arms.

Post by **erikv11** » 11 Feb 2015, 16:52

The OE part numbers for the FWD 98 V70 are

control arm, left, 8628495
control arm, right, 8628496

These are the two bolt style of control arm. If your car is a late 98 then it could have the four bolt style of control arm, parts 8628497 and 8628498. If your car is AWD then I wold have to look it up.

I have no experience with their international shipping, FCP Euro sells a high quality part made by Lemforder. The Meyle control arms are also well reputed. The really cheap ones I would stay away from unless someone has direct experience with them lasing a couple years at least.

FYI I took these part numbers from the FCP site, didn't use any special tricks.

johnhb · Post by **johnhb** » 11 Feb 2015, 18:04

Thanks, ErikV11
My Volvo has the two bolt type.
Still uncertain as to whether I just replace the bushes or the complete arms. The arm I have removed (RH) has no damage except that the bushes are worn out.