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sway bar link easy to repair, mega squirt ?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
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1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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polskamafia mjl
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Re: sway bar link easy to repair, mega squirt ?

Post by polskamafia mjl »

'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants

Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
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clarkandrew45
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Year and Model: 2008 Volvo S60
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Post by clarkandrew45 »

IVIUSTANG wrote:Sway bar links are easy for anyone with a jack, requires two bolts to be removed. If you jack your car in the centre of the sub frame(so you lift both front tires) it should put even pressure on the sway bar so you can do it with one jack. Most recommend doing both end links, as a broken one can put excess pressure on the other side causing wear. It MAY be possible you need to have an extra jack to load either the spring or sway bar to line up the bolt holes, I have never needed to.

As for your fuel economy, 20/25 US MPG is in a typical range I would say.

- Jesse
I did and tried that one mate, not an easy thing to do for me. I guess its because i am really not familiar with it. Thanks for sharing this mate, this would be a great help for me.

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

My endlink just broken on pass side.

Is it safe to drive for a few days (i.e. does the lower broken end poke on anything at all?) until I get the parts in?
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dosbricks
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Post by dosbricks »

cn90 wrote:My endlink just broken on pass side.

Is it safe to drive for a few days (i.e. does the lower broken end poke on anything at all?) until I get the parts in?
I assume you are talking about the link itself? Maybe.... but unknown. How about turning the wheel all the way to the left, reach in and disconnect it at the strut with a long-handle flex-head ratchet and deep socket. Clamp a vise grip on the back side of the stud for counter-grip since the link is toast anyway.

I actually keep a spare link in my parts bin (which has insured that I've never needed it).
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kahl
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Post by kahl »

On the V70 AWD I got in November the sway bar link was broken at the bottom. Other some tapping noise I saw no effects of it just hanging.

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erikv11  
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Post by erikv11 »

cn90 wrote:My endlink just broken on pass side.

Is it safe to drive for a few days (i.e. does the lower broken end poke on anything at all?) until I get the parts in?
If you are at all unsure, how about just remove the broken part, that's a super easy one to get off.

Take them both off if you have time but it will be fine for a little bit with only one link if you go easy on the driving.
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rspi
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Post by rspi »

People drive with.them broken all the time. I would suggest removing it.
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E Showell
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Post by E Showell »

I am a strong -1 on the IPD heavy duty sway bar end links. I never had a Volvo oem link break on me, but I did have an IPD "heavy duty" link go bad on me. Search for my thread on the topic. Also, as was pointed out in the post I am referring to, IPD used to warranty their heavy duty links for 5 years. Now it is a one year warranty. Suggests they may know something about the quality of their heavy duty links that the aren't telling us about.
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regent
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Post by regent »

OEM or MeyleHD links are fine; IPD's with reduced warranty do not sound that convincing 8)
Example of Precision: Measure with a Micrometer, mark it with Chalk, and then cut it with an Axe.
Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that

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mika
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Post by mika »

I have a seized endlink screw (the lower bolt that meets the sway bar, not the top part at strut). I have been tried to get it off for 6 months! The boot is ripped off, but the joint is still pliable. I am thinking about just cutting it off, tried impact and flare nut wrench.

I love how some jobs take at least 2 or 3 tries/days
'92 945 Turbo, 13lb boost on E85 with 54lb injectors, 230k
'98 V70 N/A 174K , Konis Sport + H&R Blue springs,16 inch Solars
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