98 v70 rubber brake line

[98v70dad]

Many people in the snow belt area strip the nut, where it is connected to the metal pipe.

The connection at the caliper is easy, virtually never an issue.

Yeah, I know about the snow belt. I am from there. That and the fact that my first car was a 75 subaru...back then subarus were rust buckets. I became an artist with bondo and touch up paint.

I would guess that corrosion would be a big problem on that connection up north. I doubt it will be an issue here. Last weekend I got the shock mounts loose with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a 3.5 inch handle and almost no torque. Once they were loose I ran them off with one finger. Everyone from up North told me that they would be a real challenge, but it wasn't the case for me. This car has seen salt no more than three times in its life and only for a day. We get enough snow and ice in Atlanta to use salt about every 5 years. The sheet metal and paint on cars will last forever here as long as you're not near the coast (salt in the air).

[98v70dad]

HF does not have the 11-mm wrench in their set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-pc-metri ... 68866.html


The Sears set has the 11-mm:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-9-pc-sta ... 944096000P

The sears set is a tremendous deal, but I found out today that its online only and cost an additional $7.00 for shipping ... still a good deal, actually excellent deal. i bought just the metric wrenches in the store for the same price. They are very nice wrenches.

Then I got to the dealer to pick up my parts AND THEY DIDN'T HAVE THEM. No reason for it, no excuse just Volvo didn't send them anything today. So that puts my repair off until Saturday. Anyhow when you depend on the dealer this is what happens at least with my dealership. They have screwed up every order from me but one in the past several years. At some point I'll learn my lesson!

[98v70dad]

Still waiting for the brake lines to come in. I would have bought them elsewhere but the dealer made me pay in advance so I'm committed. Built the DIY master cylinder bleeder cap yesterday. I'm a little leery of putting any pressure on a 16 year old master cylinder, but I guess if the bleeder valve is open there's no real chance of a big pressure build up.

[jreed]

Sorry to hear about the delays getting the new lines in.
I haven't experienced problems yet using my little home made converted 'lawn-sprayer' pressure bleeding system. I added a small pressure gauge to the side of the sprayer tank and I only pump the system up to 5-10 psi... that's all you need to get the fluid to come out freely from the bleed nipples during bleeding. I think that should be pretty safe, but perhaps others have had problems or can offer more advice.
Good luck!

[mecheng]

Still waiting for the brake lines to come in. I would have bought them elsewhere but the dealer made me pay in advance so I'm committed. Built the DIY master cylinder bleeder cap yesterday. I'm a little leery of putting any pressure on a 16 year old master cylinder, but I guess if the bleeder valve is open there's no real chance of a big pressure build up.

Just don't let the pedal drop to the floor and you should be fine. Put some wood behind the brake pedal.

[cn90]

98v70dad,

For the air compressor 1-man bleeding: 10-15 psi is good enough.
At 30 psi, the seals will be blown (search BMW forums and you will see).

Best is to keep the pressure at 10 psi or so. It is good enough for brake bleeding.

[98v70dad]

98v70dad,

For the air compressor 1-man bleeding: 10-15 psi is good enough.
At 30 psi, the seals will be blown (search BMW forums and you will see).

Best is to keep the pressure at 10 psi or so. It is good enough for brake bleeding.

Were instructions about how to use the one man bleeder in the DIY link you posted?

My thought is to remove the master cylinder cap and replace it with the one with the quick disconnect. Run the compressor tank up to about 10 to 15 psi and shut it off. Then pop the pressure hose for the compressor onto the quick disconnect. Open the bleed screw and let about 100 ml of fluid bleed out. Tighten bleed screw, adjust fluid level and be done. Is that the procedure?

The guy at the volvo salvage place where I got the '91 740 master cylinder cap told me that if I didn't have the ignition key turned to the first position I would have a problem getting all the air out. I don't know if he's right or not about that.

Comments about not letting the brake pedal drop to the floor don't make any sense to me when using this one man method. Maybe the other guy was talking about conventional brake bleeding....don't know.

[98v70dad]

The brake line replacement was as easy as advertised. Start to finish in about 2 hours. Even with the DIY one man brake line bleeder I still hate working on brakes, but it did make it A LOT easier. I'm moving on to the O2 sensors for my next project. Gas mileage is better than I thought (around 23 mpg highway) but there is still a good deal of room for improvement.

[erikv11]

In my experience, SS hoses are not better than stock hoses. ...

This is interesting, would like to hear more, which ones have you tried? I have never used the SS braided hoses.

Still curious if anyone has comments on this.

My recollection is that basically everyone who has actually used SS lines, says they are better (apart from the obvious longevity benefit, they have a slight performance benefit). Would be interested to hear otherwise if there are other experiences.

[FASTR1]

I wouldn't think twice about replacing them, the outer jacket is a protector for the inner liners however you can't put a price on safety. I did my daughters using the braided stainless lines to get a super pedal feel and hopefully longevity.