2000 V70 XC for sale. What do you guys think?

Post by **scot850** » 11 Mar 2015, 11:51

See this car for sale on local Kijiji. Seems too good to be true at $900 CDN (about $700 US).

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/calg ... nFlag=true

Car is about 70-80km from where I live, and if the claim of a battery and Nivomat is true has got to be a good buy for someone!

Neil.

Post by **matthew1** » 11 Mar 2015, 12:26

I would count on AWD not working, at the least. I'd ask the seller questions before driving an hour to see it, like "does AWD work? Does it smoke? Does it leak?" etc.

skloon · Post by **skloon** » 11 Mar 2015, 15:22

Does seem low, but to some folks it is a used furrin car

Post by **scot850** » 11 Mar 2015, 15:43

I hear you. Wouldn't run out there without a serious interrogation of the seller first! I have owned or own 2 of the P80 AWD and know the issues with the AWD set-up. Even as a FWD it is cheap for a spares car. Just don't think the 'boss' would let me go and look at it 'just-in-case' I turn up with another old Volvo. Need to go focus on the R and that cracked rear sub-frame swap. The garage is calling!!!

For me the issues are not the AWD system, but the problem we seem to have locally with the corrosion/cracking of the rear aluminum sub-frame. Both mine have done this in-spite of a lot of care, and looking at the sub-frames in the pnp lots, they also show corrosion issues to a lesser extent but it is there. Not sure what the cause is.

Neil.

Post by **misha** » 12 Mar 2015, 13:38

With position of driver's seat,i would say that driver is a woman.The seat is too close to steering wheel.Maybe it was serviced in "stealership" only,something broke and the woman or girl who owns it gave up on it.Looks nice and like somebody allready said....to good to be true.

My bet is that owner allready bought a new car and doesn't need this anymore.You don't sell a good car because of bad shock absorbers and battery,except you don't service it or buy parts from a "stealership".Also...there are no license plates on it which means that registration and insurance are expired or moved onto another car.

I guess that this is both...good and true.

P.S The seller have another vehicle to sell.I just saw the whole ad.It's a pick up truck and it also needs a battery.Both have pretty same mileage and both in same environment.Seems that both cars are just staying there for some time and that both of them are not driven for some time.

Post by **matthew1** » 12 Mar 2015, 14:01

misha wrote:With position of driver's seat,i would say that driver is a woman.The seat is too close to steering wheel.Maybe it was serviced in "stealership" only,something broke and the woman or girl who owns it gave up on it.

Good observations.

Post by **misha** » 12 Mar 2015, 14:04

kanona40 · Post by **kanona40** » 12 Mar 2015, 15:02

I have a 1998 V70 AWD XC parts car and a 1999 V70 XC.

I would be looking hard at the ETM (fly-by-wire, Bosch ME7).

1999 and 2000 are the first fly-by-wire years in the V70, and the AWD was GKN I think (Haldex didn't come out till 2001-2002?) and there were many problems specifically with the ETM (Fiat- Magneti-Marelli).

I would guess that the battery is bad because the 120 amp alt (I run with the 140amp from a later model V70) is bad, or the clutch on the pulley is bad.

Check if the CEL will light when the key is in the on position but not running. If not, then the codes have been on for so long that the bulb burned out (again look hard at the ETM and related).

I can't help but think the question might need to be.... do you like it!

The issues are all fixable with some time, patience, beer, $$$, etc.

My guess is that the car in good order is valued private party at about $3,500. The currant owner panicked at the quoted shop prices to repair and decided to unload cheap to cut his losses.

The ETM issue is permanently fixed with a Canadian built ETM called XeMODeX for about $600.

The alternator can be replaced with a later model alternator (120 amp in this car, 140 amp, and 160 in later models) for the same price as the stock.

The battery can be replaced with an AGM with minor modification to the plastic battery plate.

The center drive shaft cv's and bearing can be replaced for a couple hundred.

The viscous coupling in the torque tube can be replaced for about $600.

The leather looking vinyl on the door cards can not be truly repaired without complete removal and new material, but the "R" model had actual leather door cards that will fit and look nice (not prone to coming un glued) for cheaper than fixing the old cards.

The nivomats are my biggest gripe with the model because I’m not a fan of limited options, they work fine when they work and are $300 ea. but can be easily replaced! etc.

My Opin:

If you like it and have the ability to fix it, and structurally it is sound, then buy it… I like ours, and more importantly, my Wife loves ours!

If you are needing shops to do the work then you could be facing a bill of $3-$6K easily, not a good buy at that, so I would not recommend 

Post by **misha** » 12 Mar 2015, 15:44

For 700$,in Serbia,you can get a 16-17" Volvo alloy wheels with a good used tires on them.That said...for 700$,this car is a gift not a sale.

A pretty good looking and special gift.

Post by **scot850** » 12 Mar 2015, 20:04

Got the evil eye when I mentioned this, so looks like it won't make it's way onto the drive.

Hopefully there is another crazy person out there who will save it!

Thanks for replies.

I've had 2 AWD P80's and do as much work on them as I can. It is ALWAYS important to go into buying these cars with low expectations. The 'R' I'm running (and always doing something to) is a good case in point. Car had full history, lots of recent work and ran well. Only issue seen on a careful inspection on a hoist, was a slight weep from the front crank seal. PO had done a lot of work, which was the main selling point. He worked in a repair shop (VW specialist) so gave the impression he knew what he was doing. Since then I have had to have most of the work re-done or have done it myself, including front and rear main seal, angle gear re-seal, trans seals, and now have to pull the whole rear end to replace a corrosion cracked rear sub-frame and fix the leaking rear-diff seals. So far (my wife keeps track) I am about $13,000 into the car with the work still to be done. The repairs were never being done with the plan to sell, but now that I am semi-retired, I just don't drive enough to warrant having a spare car, and this one has only covered 6000km in 2.5 years.

Be warned!

Neil.