t6 thermostat housing bleeder line

[kickin_it]

Thanks Jimmy. I did some research, visited Lowes, fixed my issue, and wrote a tutorial for this exact issue using the part numbers of pieces from Lowes.
Here is the link for anyone interested.

[songzunhuang]

So I was changing the timing belt and had the same thing happen. The plastic thermostat housing nipple broke off. However, I think there's a better solution. I found this on FCP Euro's site. It's a metal replacement for that 90 degree part.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... o-8636779k

I called a local parts shop and gave them the part number 8636779K and are able to get it next day. So my project is stopped until tomorrow, but I think this is a nicer option. The part is $15 online or $24 from the local shop.

Another tip. It took me the longest time to figure out how that fitting goes onto the thermostat housing fitting. If I had know how it works, I could probably have taken it off without breaking it. I tried prying and pressing the tabs and pulling real hard - nothing. Turns out it's not hard, but you have to know the trick.

You need to press fitting towards the block, then squeeze the tabs on the side (the ones with the molded horizontal lines. While still squeezing, pull straight back. That's it! Turns out that these tabs release clips that hold onto a ridge in the thermostat housing fitting. Of course I didn't know this until I broke the piece and inspected it off the car. Hopefully this will save someone some grief.

[Cees Klumper]

I just went through this whole ordeal. IPD sells a repair kit, but that's finicky as well, the nipple comes separate from the housing and it taps itself into place. You get one shot at it, no instructions included, and if you mess up (I did) that's it, you need another one. Actually the original Volvo part is only a bit over $110 most places, and comes complete with a new housing, thermostat and temp sender. Then many places sell a replacement metal nipple, at around $15, made by Uro. I also tried one of these but it was just a bit smaller than the original, and as a result it did not make for an airtight coupling with the coolant hose - so that's no good. I rigged my old one up by epoxying the IPD nipple into my old housing, but have a new complete Volvo part on the way that I will be putting in as soon as it arrives. This part is too important to take a risk on. Coolant actually flows through this continuously into the plastic reservoir.

[songzunhuang]

Cees,
You know, I also noticed after the upgrade that my coupling from the expansion tank was loose. I think I am getting a bit of seepage because the metal part doesn't fit as snugly as the plastic one did. I ended up purchasing a new coolant line (which has a new coupling at the end) from IPD. I think it may be due to the age of the o-ring. When the part arrives later this week, I'll know for sure.

I put my experience in pictures in this thread. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 83#p355583

I don't think I am getting any leaks on the new fitting where it goes into the thermostat housing. I think my issue is just the coupling.

[Cees Klumper]

Song,
I measured the diameter of both original plastic and metal replacememt parts. The metal was clearly smaller diameter and also shorter, which to me explained why I could not get an airtight fit and I was pretty sure it would leak - no good!
The way I checked was basically to fit the coolant hose/fitting to the replacement nipple and then trying to create a vacuum. With the Uro nipple I could not, with the oroginal plastic one it was a very tight seal. I don't know whether all these Uro nipples are the same but if they are it's definitely not properly engineered.
I think Volvo did not design this properly; on a new car, I'm sure the engine is completely assembled outside the car, and so there's unlimited room to fit the distribution cover over the nipple so no problem. However, once it's in the car it's a different story and there's not enough room to maneuver the cover over the nipple etc.

[songzunhuang]

Dang, I didn't think to break out the micrometer to measure the diameter of both pieces. Trash pickup was today so the old broken piece is gone. I'd be curious how much smaller it was.

I ordered a new expansion hose with coupler so I am hoping that this somehow will fit tighter as the o-rings will be new in the coupler. We shall see.

[songzunhuang]

This just happened to me too. Geez... what a cock-a-mammey arrangement! I take there is not a replacement part for this, one needing to replace the entire stat housing?

I feel your pain. Going through this now myself.
Posted about an upgrade here: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 10&t=68114

However, all is not well yet. I drove the car about 20 miles today in stop and go traffic. When I got home, I was about 1 quart low on coolant. It was definitely leaking. So I'm still dealing with it - waiting for the new IPD part (expansion tank hose with fitting). If that doesn't work, I'm going to create a direct connection with a hose clamp. This is just silly.

[Cees Klumper]

If the new hose and fitting don't produce an airtight fit 'on the workbench', my advice is to get a new Volvo original thermostat housing. After all, the system gets pressurized so even the tiniest leak seems to me would be quite problematic. I got one for $112 from FCP and it comes complete with a thermostat and temp sender so is a good deal. It's just not worth all the work and worry to take a risk on a poor fitting aftermarket part, as you've unfortunately already experienced.
I didn't use a micrometer to measure the diameter difference, but it was clearly visible with the naked eye and I would guesstimate it at approx a half a millimeter, which on a part that small is actually a lot.
Good luck with the fix!

[songzunhuang]

Cees,
Got a new expansion tank hose today. Same problem. That crappy URO part just isn't going to work. I used a 1/4" I.D. fuel line and a 90 degree brass fitting as a temporary fix, but i can't get the timing cover on.

I think I'm going to do the brass replacement that I have seen others in the forum install. If I have to take everything off again, I'm going to put in a much better system.

Oh well, you live and learn.

[HereInOhio]

METAL URO NIPPLE FOR VOLVO THERMOSTAT HOUSING IS NOT THE RIGHT SIZE!!!!


Ok I registered in the hopes of helping someone. I read how the nipple always breaks and of course with thinking I worked on so much stuff and rusty parts I got this without it breaking. I actually did to. I was able to push the connector towards the block and take a pair of long needle nose pliers from Marcs (great for fishing...different topic) or channel locks and depress each sides and pull it out. Feeling real good at this point.

Unclip the timing cover and pull it out and "SNAP" broke the damn nipple off. At this point my emotions quickly changed from feeling accomplished to wanting to punch the next kid walking his poodle past my house. Of course joking but not far from it. If I realized how much of a bitch this is going to create I would have took my time. Not only is removing the t-40 bolts a pain, removing all the crap to reach in there isnt easy the first time...dont worry youll soon be a pro at this, getting the t-stat housing lined up and getting the bolts in is a task. Removing the housing and the damn sensor wire makes you scratch your head the way its positioned between the cam solenoids, I pried mine between the gap careful not to damage the wires (careful is relative with level of frustration). But when everything leaks and you have to do it again really makes you wish you didnt break the nipple.



So here we go. Was going to replace with brass fittings but I like keeping stuff semi original and after buying the tap and drill bit since I know I couldnt find one of the 20 I have and brass fittings and spending a day running around finding the right stuff I decided to grab the metal URO brand fitting. After replacement I realized it was too small for the plastic to clip on. I ran all over and none of the big box stores have what you need. Save time go to ace hardware. Big props to ace, one of the few stores with customer service out there, I will be supporting them because a dollar extra is worth having their services for future projects like this. I purchased some brass barbbed fittings 1/8" pipe fitting to 1/4" barbbed and 1/8" pipe to 3/8" barbbed and a 90 degree 1/8" pipe thread. I made a 90 with a 3/8" barbbed going to the reservoir and 1/4" barbbed going to the nipple. I had some 1/4" tranny hose so i used that and worm clamps and tefelon tape/paste at the threaded connections.

Put it all together timing belt cover fluids and everything and it was leaking. Forget that kid, I wanted to punch something way worse at this point. I new the damn uro fitting was loose at the threaded part going into the housing. I just used t paste and not the tape. I knew I should use both for a tight fit. Keep in mind I did my alternator which involved removing the intake, fuel rail, injectors, power sterring pump and getting the alternator out. At this point I noticed the timing belt was trashed so I did that. Now I'm on the last bit of this adventure and screwing with this housing...I just wanted to be done. The thing with this metal nipple is there is a square that hits the housing preventing you from tightening it. I knew I shoulve ground it flush with the round part but when I take it apart I will do that and use both the tape and the paste (yes...I'm currently not done). In all honesty its not leaking at the nipple/housing threads as bad as it is where the housing meets the block. In auto school I was taught not to use silicon just to use the gasket. The guy at Volvo parts was persistent on using silicon so I did.....this may comtribute to the leak but I would think it was more fumbling trying to get it lined up. We wont go into trying to torque it a bit to seal it up and dropping the T-40 and still not being able to find it after a two hour search. Remember t-cover is off, if its in there thats not good. Im going to die wondering where that socket went.

Now that you read my life story you are rewarded with tips.

1.) Don't break the damn nipple and take your time ...by far best option. Unless your David Copperfield go to #2 well I'll add #1.5 for you now instead of later David.

1.5.) Trim the timing belt cover where it goes over the nipple. Theres a part that protrudes, cut it flush with a razor ir small hack saw blade (Marcs). It will keep you from breaking about 10 other parts and nothing will happen from trimming it. If this is of concern silicon what you cut when installed but it will be blocked by the connections. Again I like keeping stuff original, dont be hard headed and stubborn...trim this piece.

2.) Just buy the whole housing with the plastic nipple. I found it for about $75, youll be right around there in the end anyways. I dont see the non OEM being an issue and I probably worked on a wider variety of cars than most reading this including lots of Audis and Land Rovers, if you want OEM I'm not arguing opinions and think its about $35 more..go for it, still worth it. I can guarentee youre going to want to replace the t-stat if you have the pain of taking the housing off. I would plan on just getting the whole housing and you won't have to run around finding fittings, tapping threads in housings, waiting for each part and gasket you ordered to come in the mail (don't think youre going to AutoZone to get this stuff). The only negative is you don't have a metal nipple but how soon do you really think youll need the cover off and if you do its probably not going to be as brittle. Tip, removing the housing is easier with a shorter t-40 socket opposed to the more common longer ones. Also some choose to wire tie the sensor wire tightly to the outside of the housing opposed to between the block and housing.


For the hard headed people like me that dont take others advice and do it the hard way and wish they would've listened later, continue on: (I would say "or if youre broke but, probably not if you own a Volvo, and if you are broke did you not read when I said it's costing you the same either way...so either way is irrelevant)

3.) If you want the metal nipple I understand but think its overkill. If it was the right size that would be different but its not so youll be dealing with brass fittings, grinding, combining different size hoses, ect. Tips are go to ACE and get the brass parts above, tefelon tape and paste, clamps, and 1/4" hose. Make sure the fitting is tight in the housing and I would suggest grinding down the "corners" to have it screw in further.

Keep in mind youll still be speninf $15 nipple $15+ brass fittings, $30 thermostat, $15 two gaskets, and if you dont have these laying around include price of tefelon tape/paste, clamps, hose, drill bits and extractors. Remember when I said you'll spend $75+ anyways. This isnt considering your time running around getting stuff and placing 5 different parts orders opposed to one if you just bought everything.

Or if you would prefer use other brass fittings tapped into the housing, youtube videos out there for tips on this.


Hopefully this helps someone. Ill try to load pics.


Now that its not raining Ill buy a special t-40 short socket try to snug up the housing and hopefully it wont leak but I know Ill be taking it off to reseal it to the block. Any tips for me would be appreciated.