The AutoRx Thread....Results and how it's going with it.

loub · Post by **loub** » 03 Mar 2007, 09:19

First,I would like to thank, Matthew,MIJ,and all the other frequent contributors to this site. This question is for MIJ, Do you still use Mobile1? I am confused about statements from autorx FAQ's. " We believe that high-mileage engines using synthetic/semi-synthetic or high mileage oil weaken the seal material and it loses its pliability. We question why anyone would want to go back to a chemistry that will start the process of seal material degradation all over again."

I have been using synthetics and reading comments about the superiority of them for many years! Autorx seems to contradict a lot of experts and leaves me doubtful about their claims for their product! Thank you.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 03 Mar 2007, 10:12

loub,
I believe what they mean is "while using AutoRx." Evidently the forumula reacts with Synthetics while cleaning the engine differently than with dino oils...therefore you have to go back to dino-oil while doing the AutoRx treatment. When it is all over, you can switch back to synthetic oil without any problem. And, yes, I still use Mobil-1. The main reason is not for the engine so much (although I think it does help it) but for the turbo.

Post by **luketrash** » 04 Mar 2007, 21:37

I'm 1300 miles into it, and my oil still looks like it would if I would not have used Auto RX. The oil isn't black. Given that I figured my car would use a lot of oil, I've been happy to see that it only used about 1/2 quart over the course of 3000 miles. Most of that probably blew into the intake via the PCV system. I'm definitely making a catch tank system when it warms up. I keep having to clean my MAF which gets coated in oil mist.

I still have valve tick depending on the day. I drive my car every day about 20 miles on average, so I'm surprised the valve tick comes and goes. My 960 has tick when I don't drive it for months, but it goes away after the first time I get the engine up over 4000 rpm. I'm going to be switching over to Castrol GTX 5w30 (from 10w30) for this next phase of cleaning. Hopefully the thinner oil will get into the lifter(s) and clean out the clog.

Post by **luketrash** » 13 Mar 2007, 09:14

I changed my oil last night after the initial 1500 miles of using Auto RX. Let's just say that it was the blackest oil I've ever taken out of a non diesel vehicle. It hadn't looked overly black on the dipstick, but it came out into the drain pain blacker than midnight.

I have the oil filter hanging to 'dry' and am going to cut it open tonight to examine everything. I suspect I might have been totally bypassing the filter for several miles.

I had switched over to an FCP Groton magnetic drainplug back when I first changed the oil, and it was covered in about 1/4" of metal shavings.

I was using 10w30 Castrol GTX and switched over to 5w30 for this stage. I must say that my car idles noticibly smoother with the thinner oil. I'm hoping this second cleaning stage will knock more things free. Looking in the oil fill hole, there's not really evidence of bad sludge to begin with, but I need to continue to take photos to show if anything ends up cleaner.

My dipstick still puffs steam when the car is running, regardless of renewing the PCV system and using AUto RX for 1500 miles. The true sign of the stuff working will be if the blowby goes away, or minimizes to the point the PCV system can overcome the crankcase pressure and create a vacuum at my dipstick.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 16 Mar 2007, 05:30

lucast wrote:I got my shipment of Auto-RX into Australia just last week and the difference to my 1994 850 GLT wagon has been nothing short of amazing.

The car had recently been serviced and the mechanic put in Castrol GTX by default - apparently that's what he thinks an older car with 230,000km should be using. So I figured, all good! It's already using dino oil.

Put in the full 12 oz bottle and almost immediately, just after a few kms, I could feel the engine revving a lot smoother. It's really only getting better as I drive more - as it apparently should be the case. I am only about 150km into the 'treatment' and it's quite clear to me that the car has more power than before and now has a smoothness it never quite had.

My wagon hasn't had any transmission issues but I have dumped 6 oz of AutoRx to clean the transmission as well - the oil was not brown nor burnt smelling. The auto gear changes seem to have improved somewhat as well, though not as dramatically as the engine performance.

This is a VERY impressive product indeed!

copied and pasted from your post in the wrong section.

Post by **srnkanator** » 16 Mar 2007, 10:39

AutoRX can go in the tranny?

Post by **kelvin6** » 16 Mar 2007, 13:22

Yes, Auto RX can go into the transmission. One ounce of AutoRX for every quart of ATF in the transmission. So, in the case of the 850, that would be roughly around 8. The website recommends a average of 6 ounces, and not wanting to overfill the transmission, that probably is the best amount use.

I've used it in my power steering and it did quiet the system down. I plan to AutoRX the transmission before my next ATF flush.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 16 Mar 2007, 17:10

kelvin6 wrote:Yes, Auto RX can go into the transmission. One ounce of AutoRX for every quart of ATF in the transmission. So, in the case of the 850, that would be roughly around 8. The website recommends a average of 6 ounces, and not wanting to overfill the transmission, that probably is the best amount use.

I've used it in my power steering and it did quiet the system down. I plan to AutoRX the transmission before my next ATF flush.

Please let us know how it went with the ARX in the tranny....personally, I'm very leary of putting anything foreign in the Volvo transmission.

Post by **kelvin6** » 17 Mar 2007, 01:33

I'm very confident of what AutoRX can do. I'm almost done with my AutoRX treatment in my engine, on the last rinse phase. There is noticible improvement in MPG and performance gains. Its kind of hard to say how much of each, because all of it came so gradually and supposedly my car was problem free when I started the treatment. I only did the AutoRX just for 'preventive' maintanance and because I was bored and wanted something to do on the car

. Same goes with the PS system, I didn't really have any problems except for a very minor leak and some minor noise which I thought was normal. After AutoRXing that, the system really quieted down and no more leaks, even after switching over to synthetic ATF in the PS system after flushing it out. The steering now takes less effort to steer and much quieter when doing a full wheel turn... was well worth the price of AutoRX.

The tranny is my next planned usage for the rest of my AutoRX bottle. I expect it to be safe as its NOT a solvent that can make ATF fluid unstable and can cause potential seal damage. Ironically, the seafoam we use in our engines for a small cleaning, is NOT to be used in ATF fluid as it makes it incredibly unstable and because its a straight up solvent it can cause damage to the transmission if left in there.

Post by **luketrash** » 25 Mar 2007, 21:17

Holy crap, the oldskool Mann oil filters are built tough.

I had mine sitting in the garage, draining out for the past week and decided to cut into it today. And by cut, I mean pipe saw, because I couldn't cut it with tin snips.

The filter element in it is very hard, almost like fiberglass rather than paper. The element broke apart, rather than stretched out like an accordion. There wasn't any chunks of gelatenous crud, but that oil was THICK.

That was the last of a bunch of Mann filters I had bought in the late 90s for my Volvo 240s. The new ones aren't as solid... At least the tin can part.

The AutoRx Thread....Results and how it's going with it.

autorx thread