2002 S40 Timing Belt R/R after belt slipping

[jeffreyyauger]

Problem - daughters car quit in intersection. Codes pointed to timing problem. When I cranked the engine it sounded like there was some but enough compression to start. Visual inspection showed that the existing timing belt was still intact but half of width was shredded off. Suspect the belt skipped several teeth.

Note: recent head gasket repair done by local shop about 3 months ago. Car started throw P0015 codes sometime after.

Here's what I've done and where I'm at. I sure could use help from forum members.

1. Followed available instructions and removed parts necessary to access timing belt, tensioner, idler, etc.
2. Rotated crankshaft to TDC marks on crank. Checked intake cam timing mark for alignment to plastic cover. It was ~30 degrees off or to the left at say 10 o'clock.
3. Removed and replaced idler and tensioner
4. Checked crank for proper alignment, then rotated intake cam timing mark to match the plastic cover. Rotated exhaust cam to the mark someone had previously put on because there is NO mark on the exhaust cam gear.
5. Carefully put on the timing belt and checked timing marks again, took a couple of times to get this without locking the pulleys but did manage after a couple of times. Set the tensioner and tightened it up. Checked belt tension and it is fine.
6. Used the 30mm on the crank and turned the engine clockwise twice to check for any interference and all was smooth no issues.
7. Not trusting that timing was correct, spun the engine to see if it would start before buttoning up. No luck.
8. Turned the crank and aligned the intake timing mark to the plastic cover. Checked to see that exhaust was where I positioned it. Everything checked out.
9. Removed exhaust cam sensor cover and sensor ring to view cam position. The marks on the back of the cam are horizontal which I believe is correct based on what I've read.

At this point my thoughts are that there are two conditions going on here.

1. Timing is right or very close and there are bent valves which is affecting compression and the engine will never start; or
2. Timing is wrong.

My only thought at this point is to rotate the exhaust by 90 degrees, basically move it around to the next horizontal position.

I do not have access to the cam locking tools and am looking to not have to purchase unless necessary as they are 100.00 plus to buy.

Is it possible to check the exhaust cam position without using the locking tool?

Would greatly appreciate help on this, I need to get her car back on the road asap.

[alschnertz]

My first thought is that the place that did the head gasket did something wrong in their reassembly of the timing components. It took 3 months to disintegrate.

2. The marks on the crankshaft and camshaft gears are "timing marks" - not TDC. Top dead center is actually a little off from these marks.
30 degrees off on the intake cam seems like an awful lot to me. But it's hard to say how long it's been off that much.

3. I suspect the shop that did the head gasket may have not tensioned the belt properly when the car was reassembled. It just took 3 months to finally give out.

4. I'm suspicious of the mark that someone else made and that there is no mark on the gear. Mine had a mark.

5. I bought the locking tool when I did my VVT gear last year. The tool made the job much easier and it made me confident that the cams were lined up properly. I haven't come across any instructions for how to line up the cams by eye yet. Right tool for the right job etc. Just sayin'.

You mean rotate the cam 180 degrees right? 90 will make the notches vertical.
I think you may have bent valves.
Since nothing is banging into the pistons right now, why not do a compression test.
Maybe that will answer your bent valve question.

I found that as a novice, this engine is a pain to get everything lined up properly. Next time it'll be easier.

[oragex]

As mentioned, possibly the shop didn't set the tensioner properly, or they used some low cost aftermarket pulleys/water pump. There have been reports about water pumps that failed in a couple of months.

[jeffreyyauger]

Thanks much for the replies. I don't think at this point a compression test will do much good because the exhaust cam is most likely not in the right position therefore compression readings will be wrong.

I think at this point I have to track down or by blocking tool less someone else has an idea. I think I will rotate The exhaust and see if that helps

[alschnertz]

Take a look at this video.
I used it as a guide when I did my VVT.
Maybe it'll give you some insight on how the cams should be aligned.
http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... et-up.html

[jeffreyyauger]

Thanks for posting the video. Got the cams lined up in proper position. Lots of trial and error on the exhaust cam moving a tooth forward / backwards. Got the car to start but has rough idle. All seems in order when above 1200 rpm, normal performance but awful at idle. Throwing the p0017 code which is the same thing as before the old timing belt shredded 1/2 way off.

From what I gather, p0017 has to do with exhaust timing not being able to correlate close enough to the crank. Basically the ECM can't cope with it and throws the code.

Will try to clean the solenoid but suspect the VVT was done incorrectly by the guys that did the head work which resulted in this failure in the first place.

Anyone have thoughts on what I might do to fix. Like I said, runs great once you get above 1200 rpm

[alschnertz]

I thought of something else.

I wonder if the exhaust cam gear (the VVT hub) was not positioned properly or torqued properly to the exhaust cam and it slipped. The cam gear (VVT) is fastened to the cam with a center bolt that is VERY tight. Something like 80 ft-lbs.

I don't think you removed that gear, but perhaps the guys that did the head gasket removed it and either did not assemble it correctly or did not torque the bolt properly. I don't think it is possible to torque the cam gear (VVT hub) to the cam correctly without locking the cams. There's just too much torque that needs to be applied.

What I'm trying to explain is that the exhaust gear (the VVT hub) itself is positioned wrong in its relation to the camshaft position. Not that you're just off a tooth on the timing belt.

[Livens]

I thought of something else.

I wonder if the exhaust cam gear (the VVT hub) was not positioned properly or torqued properly to the exhaust cam and it slipped. The cam gear (VVT) is fastened to the cam with a center bolt that is VERY tight. Something like 80 ft-lbs.

I don't think you removed that gear, but perhaps the guys that did the head gasket removed it and either did not assemble it correctly or did not torque the bolt properly. I don't think it is possible to torque the cam gear (VVT hub) to the cam correctly without locking the cams. There's just too much torque that needs to be applied.

What I'm trying to explain is that the exhaust gear (the VVT hub) itself is positioned wrong in its relation to the camshaft position. Not that you're just off a tooth on the timing belt.

I agree. Buy the tool, I found mine on eBay for $60 from someone else who just needed it for the 1 time.

It sounds like you are close to having the timing right, you may have been lucky and not damaged anything. I would get the tool and pull the belt back off and set the crank and cams to the correct positions and resinstall the belt.

When I did my VVT gear replacement putting the gears in the proper alighnment was easy. Just leave both the VVT and intake gear loose and put the belt back on. Tension the belt and then slowly tighten up and torque the gears. the mark on your intake gear should be spot on, the VVT gear just ignore the mark and tighten it up whereever it is. You want the gear to be neutral to the cams (not pulling one way or the other. That is why new VVT gears do not have a timing mark on them.

Once everything was torqued up I put a new mark on my VVT gear, and then manually rotated the engine 2 revs to check that everything came back to where is should have.

Good luck!