1999 V70XC ETM problem Topic is solved

simon1995+ · Post by **simon1995+** » 20 May 2015, 22:30

Hey guys, this is my first post. I’m in Illinois, America. And as of now I don’t know how to post my own thread as it wont let me watch the how to video.

Here is my story. 1999 v70 XC wagon, took it to a shop. They said I needed a new ETM and catalytic converter. I know I have an exhaust leak. And I was having a low idle, with erratic limp home mode/ speed boost while driving so it made sense. I went to a Volvo graveyard and got 2 yellow sticker ETMs. installed the first, not even close. Second one turned on and hurrah! It worked perfectly... FOR 5 MINUTES until it came to temp. Then fluttering idle and total limp home mode. Also blackish smoke coming from exhaust.

After that I was told 5 things. Test ohms at the temperature sensor. Test ohms at etm or voltage to the block (neither of which I know how to do). clean original ETM and reinstall to see what happens. buy xemodex ETM. Or take it into dealer to have software from junkyard ETM paired to my cars systems.

I’m 19, handy, this is my first car. I’m on a tight budget and I'm in great need. If anyone could provide guidance I would really appreciate it.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 21 May 2015, 07:46

How is your temperature gauge behaving? Does it come up to the 3:00 position and stay nailed there or does it hover down toward the lower end of the scale?

Since the second ETM worked I assume that the software on it is compatible so I don't think you will need a download. Was the ETS light on at any time in this ordeal and is it on now?

A bad ECT sensor will cause the car to run super rich and result in the black smoke and stalling.

Hopefully the catalytic converter isn't really bad. I know of no universal replacements that will fit and it is an unbelievably expensive part that is nearly impossible to install.

...Lee

simon1995+ · Post by **simon1995+** » 21 May 2015, 09:15

Ozark Lee wrote:How is your temperature gauge behaving? Does it come up to the 3:00 position and stay nailed there or does it hover down toward the lower end of the scale?

Since the second ETM worked I assume that the software on it is compatible so I don't think you will need a download. Was the ETS light on at any time in this ordeal and is it on now?

A bad ECT sensor will cause the car to run super rich and result in the black smoke and stalling.

Hopefully the catalytic converter isn't really bad. I know of no universal replacements that will fit and it is an unbelievably expensive part that is nearly impossible to install.

...Lee

The ets light only comes on once it has come to temp, sometimes accompanied by the check engine llight. While its cold in runs like a dream.

Ands for the temperature gauge, it slowly rises after about 5 min and holds true at the 3 o clock position.

Post by **abscate** » 21 May 2015, 09:33

Welcome simon. Not only are you handy, you can write well. This will serve you well in future.

(Okay - old guy mode off)

Lets go back to your original fault - did the ETS light come on and did it go into limp mode to start the saga?

Can you pull the spark plugs and lets have a look at them, too.

Did you have any codes (Check Engine light on) ??

simon1995+ · Post by **simon1995+** » 21 May 2015, 21:59

abscate wrote:Welcome simon. Not only are you handy, you can write well. This will serve you well in future.

(Okay - old guy mode off)

Lets go back to your original fault - did the ETS light come on and did it go into limp mode to start the saga?

Can you pull the spark plugs and lets have a look at them, too.

Did you have any codes (Check Engine light on) ??

First off, thank you.

So to the beggining. I bought the car about 9 months ago, ran great for the first 7 months or so, then...seemingly random limp home mode, the check engine light came on. and it seemed like it would randomly turn on the turbo, but it was driveable. (mostly because I had to drive it)

so I took it to auto zone and they said it was my o2 sensor and that the crank position sensor was slightly ahead. Well before I could get to work on that the problem got much worse. within a week it was low idle, much more frequent limp home mode, and check engine light.

So I took it to a firestone for a proper diagnostic, and they are who told me that my catalytic and etm had to be replaced. No mention of o2 sensor or crank position sensor.

To answer your questions; the ets light had never came on until I put the junkyard one in. And on saturday (my next day off) I can check the plugs.

Post by **abscate** » 21 May 2015, 23:14

We need the codes from the check engine light too. When you get poor running, you can get a bunch of codes, so dont freak if you have a 4 or 5.

Get the actual codes, like P0442, not just the "need sensor" description.

simon1995+ · Post by **simon1995+** » 22 May 2015, 10:16

Okay. Ill get those codes. Will an autozone have the necessary equipment to give me the codes?

Post by **abscate** » 22 May 2015, 10:23

Yeah - just ask them to read off the screen and write down the P####. Make sure you get all of them.

You can get a cheap AUTEL scanner off ebay for about 15-20 USD too, which saves the trip to AZ

simon1995+ · Post by **simon1995+** » 22 May 2015, 17:40

That fantastic. I'm going to do that.

what do you think of my original post? Of all the things I was told to do? Seemed like a bit of a work around.

Post by **abscate** » 23 May 2015, 11:18

On your first post....

When you are sorting out an 18 year old car, you do it slowly and carefully. Unless an indie has 18 old Volvos in the front, it's likely that you plus this forum will do a better job evaluating where your car is at,and what to do next, than a guy who looks at it for 1 minute and tells you you need this, that,the other.

Autozone is famous for " all P codes are solved with new O2 sensor" for example. They must get a great wholesale cost on these.

Search for rspi video on " what to do with a new Volvo"

Evaluate PCV
Compression test
Vacuum hoses
Radiator hoses
Timing belt