1998 V70 T5 Chocolate Milk Looking Coolant

charleskennedy23 · Post by **charleskennedy23** » 22 May 2015, 13:50

Hi friends,

So I was doing a fluids check on my car yesterday and I noticed that my coolant looked like chocolate milk. car is running great (no over heat or misfire / no check engine light / no codes). Did I blow my head gasket?

let me know your thoughts...

Post by **tryingbe** » 22 May 2015, 14:28

When was the last time the coolant was changed? You need to take the car to have it pressure check to see if the head gasket is indeed broken.

Post by **scot850** » 22 May 2015, 14:37

+1 on the check for head gasket. When was your radiator last changed? If your car is an auto, the cooler portion may have failed in the radiator. So check the fluid level and color/smell in the trans. If you have a manual trans you should be ok, unless there is a oil cooler.

If you are not sure, open the hood and look down the back of the radiator. If you have 2 lines entering the LH side of the radiator from where you stand (RH side of the car) you have an oil cooler for the engine. If you have 2 lines on the RH side from where you stand (LH side of the radiator) you have an auto trans with a cooler. It is possible to have all 4. Then it is a case of checking both sources of the oil for contamination.

Neil.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 22 May 2015, 14:39

You may have a bad oil cooler, that would be my first guess.

...Lee

charleskennedy23 · Post by **charleskennedy23** » 22 May 2015, 14:52

Coolant changed out in October (about 2,000 miles ago)... So coolant is fresh (although I have had to drain it numerous times in the past 7 months as I went about the stage zero process).

I did a head gasket check back in November and it was good (I used the test kit that you can borrow from O'Reilly). Should I still pay for the compression test?

Lee... How would I know if it is an oil cooler issue?

Also is this an emergency type of repair or is it one of those that can wait a week or two until I get a free weekend? Car is my daily driver but I typically put less than 20 miles / day on it...

ck

Post by **tryingbe** » 22 May 2015, 16:19

If any coolant gets into the oil system, you'll be needing a new engine. Get it diagnosis and fixed ASAP.

Post by **FLXC90** » 23 May 2015, 13:17

Also, coolant in the trans will kill the trans friction materials. Either cross contamination is damaging, fix asap. Also, might be worth a redo on the compression test or block-check, for peace of mind after replacing radiator and fluids.

Also, most trans repair shops will do a glycol check for coolant in trans fluid for free (a litmus paper type test)

Post by **osman** » 23 May 2015, 18:33

If your compression numbers are good do a coolant reservoir pressure test. Probably time for a new radiator, takes about an hour or two. A lot of people dont realize their oil and trans fluid also run through their radiator. You have an internal radiator leak.

charleskennedy23 · Post by **charleskennedy23** » 26 May 2015, 07:44

Thanks guys! I appreciate the advice! I ordered a Nissens radiator from FCP and will attempt the repair as soon as it comes in. I have seen Robert DYI's video and the one put out by FCP. What's the best write up for radiator replacement?

Post by **scot850** » 26 May 2015, 23:07

When replacing the radiator, particularly with an aftermarket one, I strongly suggest replacing the top hose also. I have found it is almost impossible to get a tight seal on the top hose at the radiator once an old hose has aged and gone hard. The dam things always weeped a little. The OE rads used to have a little brass sleeve in them that made the top hose connection a firm round tube. The aftermarket ones don't have them, and done always seal well as there is a join that never seems to be flat running the length of the join.

Roberts videos usually show all you need to know. If the radiator has been in for a long time, get plenty off PB Blaster or Deep Creep onto the threads of the 2 bolts that hold the radiator in. The bolts are about 2/3rd of the way down either side of the radiator, with the threads pointing up. Some guys say the LH one gets more corroded due to proximity to the battery, but my experience is the reverse. So cover both bases, and soak the threads the day before.

Personally, I also prefer to remove the radiator fan hosing from the top first, as it makes the radiator easier to handle with less weight, and also easier to wiggle out. Make sure to support the radiator before trying to remove it as you have to separate the intercooler and a/c condenser first. Make sure to take photos of how the orientation of the 2 end flaps of the intercooler are fitted as they often come loose and just fall out.

Good luck!

Neil.