02 S60 engine shudders, stops as if on empty tank + restarts

[precopster]

How about a change in other voltages present (not the 13.9 obviously as this is tied to battery)

[sergio]

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No change.

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[abscate]

But it runs fine with the MAF disconnected still?

[sergio]

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Apparently yes. MAF .AND. Booster sensor disconnected.
Since it happens unpredictably and sporadically, I need to drive longer distance/time, next week I have a 200 mile trip.

I yet need to see whether it is both sensors together in tandem, or one of the sensors alone (and in this case which one) causes the problem AND WHY.


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[sergio]

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The last 2 days I had drove with MAF (next to air filter) connected but MAP (second before TB) disconnected.
The engine showed symptoms of empty tank (despite the 3 gallons of unleaded!)
I pulled both cables off, it runs OK

For the next 2 days I will drive with MAP on and MAF disconnected.

There should be a way of testing these sensors before replacing them just on a whim.


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[slicker]

I have an 01 with exactly the same symptoms. Sometimes it runs perfectly then it will run sporadically with terrifble idle and jerky on aceleration.
codes are ECM-1600 boost pressure sensor and ECM-170F Boost pressure sensor
I have another car so have swapped both sensors and the MAF but still the same symptoms.

So I'll follow this thread with great interest.

[sergio]

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Thank you slicker for the feed back, and confirming that replacing sensors is not always the solution.
You're lucky (?) to have 2 of them to swap and test. I have had to buy $ 500 sensors and parts to realize that I shouldn't have ;-(
so you have "ECM-1600 boost pressure sensor and ECM-170F Boost pressure sensor"
Sometimes I wonder if the engineers know what they are talking about!

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[slicker]

Some more background for my case.
Changed plug coils with almost new ones. The ETM has a Sacer sensor, so don't suspect that. Might have started to occur ater I replaced solenoids in transmission, perhaps I disturbed something.

I do suspect the that the fault codes for sensors may appear as a result of the real fault. The sensor produces unexpected result, so the sensor is fingered as the cause. Although if I do a delivery - clear codes action with the Vida the 1600 and 170F appear immediately. Perhaps destroying my theory that those faults are a result of the real problem.

At the moment thinking about investigating air or vacuum leaks. I've tried juggling pipes, hoses and wires but nothing seems to stop, or stimulate, the behaviour. Will try more this weekend.

[slicker]

Success!!!

I did two things. Cleaned the throttle body. It had been a while since it was done and there were black deposits on the intake. While doing that the pressure pipe on the turbo boost pressure solenoid fell off. It may have been loosened when I did the transmission solenoid replacement. Now my V70 has run perfectly for a day and a half.

Not sure which was the cause of the problem. Possibly a combination of both.

The turbo control pipe is easy to check. The pipe has a flexible section from the turbo boost pressure solenoid down to a rigid pipe that goes down beside the fan. It would take 20 seconds to check it is seated properly. If this is doing silly things, because the pipe connection wasn't connected properly, I can imagine the intake sensor signals 'appearing' wrong, therefore throwing fault codes.

A throttle body cleaning is easy enough fora slightly capable amateur. It takes about 90 minutes if you go slowly and take the fan and other pipes out of the way. A flexible clamp screwdriver is handy to get at the hard to see clamp screws.

[sergio]

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As you can see it's been a long time I started this thread.
With this as result of fault reading;

Now the rest of the story:

I did anything I could to find the reason.
I also visited several general shops and some claiming being specialists and working exclusively on Swedish cars.
Suggestions as how to deal with the issue usually started with "replace the booster pressure sensor MAP" [most frequent] replace MAF, replace AC compressor () replace fuel filter etc etc

Being burned before following free advices received [probably from friends of part sellers] to replace MAF, crank shaft sensor and TB, therefore having throne away good $$$ I decided not to replace any sensor AT ALL.
I began testing these sensor on in their pace; a set of sewing needles, wires and a multimeter.

The reading were more difficult to understand than Greek spoken with a Japanese accent.
They changed every other time and whether the Key on 0, Key on II, engine running or sensor not attached.
I KNOW, these changes are normal but the same reading being different from one day to another ????.
The 5V+ line was driving me crazy. One day 5, next day 0 and the next 1.69 then maybe 4.8
I suspected a short somewhere.

So I took the car to a car electrician explained my case, handed showed my printout of the wires regarding MAP, MAF, Ac etc.

This guy took me seriously, listen to my explanation took my electric schematic and called me 2 days later:
They had removed and cleaned the harness (the one on my schematic) realized there were oil spills on the computer end. Cleaned it and Voila. The car is running fine since 2 weeks. And so is the AC!.
I was charged for 2 hours labor.

Maybe my story will help someone save couple of bucks on unnecessary purchase of parts.


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