1996 850 Odd coolant leak, and dirty coolant

[erikv11]

OP is asking about a non-turbo, so no intercooler. Disconnect the radiator and pull it out. I actually prefer to take the rad out the top on a non-turbo but I would suggest just choose one of the online guides and stick to it step by step, you'll come out well.

[JimBee]

As others have said, changing out a radiator, especially on a non-turbo, can be a 30 minute job.

CAN BE IF the two side mount bolts thread out easily. They often do not. Before trying to remove them, use a small wire brush (the "toothbrush" type) to clean the rusty threads. Then saturate them with PB Blaster. Then loosen them, maybe slightly re-tightening, then reloosening to work the threads. If the threads bind, the threaded "nut" that is spot-welded to the mount flange will break loose, then the bolt will turn freely without loosening from its nut.
That happened to me. If it happens, you'll need to grab the bolt topside with the tip of a Vice Grip to hold it, while turning the bolt out. I think I used a Dremel to cut a couple of flat edges on the nut to grip it better. Try to prep it as well as you can, even if it takes a little longer.

If you can get the bolt partly loosened before the nut breaks loose, you might be able to get your Dremel cutting wheel on the bolt from underneath and cut the head off, the just use a new bolt.

[granite]

I have no power tools (nor can I afford any right now), and even if I did, there is no power outlet near where the car is.

But it'll probably be all right. I'm more concerned about the transmission fluid (which will probably burst out) and the two very rusted connectors. I should probably drain the transmission fluid before disconnecting, and then refill with fresh fluid.

[erikv11]

A small amount of trans fluid will drip out, but don't expect any bursting. Draining the trans pan (3.5 liters will come out) is one method, or just catch the small amount (maybe 0.5 liters) that comes out when you remove the lower trans hose. When you put the clips back on the trans hoses, secure them with a zip-tie.

[granite]

Just ordered the new radiator. Should be here next week. I ordered it from Germany. A new part for less than an old and used from the scrapyard costs here, even with shipping from Germany to Sweden included. And only about a third of what the cheapest NEW radiator (not OEM) costs in stores here! Crazy!

[granite]

Got the new radiator last week, and finally had time to attempt the replacement today.

It started out well enough. The fan shroud removal only took minutes. The hose clamp on the radiator side of the upper radiator was too rusted to allow me to remove it. Tried both 7 mm hex and flat screwdriver - both failed, leaving a very deformed clamp screw head. The engine side clamp was fine, though, so I figured I'd saw it off later and get a new one for the radiator side.

The lower radiator hose and the two transmission fluid connectors were fairly easy. No problem there.

But then I got to all the small hex screws holding the radiator/AC assembly together. Both lower ones snapped right off. The upper two are really hard to access, and I only managed to get the passenger side one loose. The other will have to be sheared off somehow.

The two big vertical screws for the main radiator mounts simply turn freely. They don't unscrew at all. And they're too hard to access with a saw blade or power tool, so I have no idea how to get them out...

Any suggestions?

[granite]

Radiator replaced after much wailing and gnashing of teeth. I had to saw off the radiator mounting flanges to get it out. Then sawed off the two vertical screws to get them loose.

Test drive ok.