1999 v70: Erratic clicking sound, moving indicator key posii

sombat · Post by **sombat** » 17 Jun 2015, 09:04

Please help

I believe, I am having a bigger problem than the one I am trying to work it out.

I am just a car enthusiastic and try to follow this thread "Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures" to do ETM contactless sensor. While measuring the voltage after I removed the putty, the throttle moved erratically( I thought I might accidentally short a circuit during the measure). I turn the key to off position, disconnected the throttle and later turned back to the pos II again.This time it gave the same clicking noise and fuel tank indicator and speedometer moved back and forth. I noticed the sound comes from the driver's side under the dashboard.

I am pretty sure that I damaged something. What did I damage? How do I confirm?
Any advice and suggestions will be greatly appreciated .

Post by **abscate** » 17 Jun 2015, 10:21

It is little tough to figure out where you are from your description, but I don't think you should be working on the ETM with any battery voltage on it. My guess is it is very easy to short something out and damage it beyond repair.

It is almost rule zero of any electrical work - remove negative battery terminal.

sombat · Post by **sombat** » 17 Jun 2015, 10:56

Thank you for your comment "abscate". Now I am trying to find the source of the erratic clicks. It comes from one of the relays on what i believe CEM, Central Electric Module. It's very narrow space and now I don't know how to pull the board out. Any idea?

sombat · Post by **sombat** » 17 Jun 2015, 11:07

More explanation about ETM work I tried to work on. I tried to replace original sensor with non contact type (Sacer). According to the thread,
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =full+open
I should measure the voltage of the original sensor in order to match the new sensor so, the supply voltage had to be supplied. I might did something wrong so that I am in the desperate situation now.

Post by **precopster** » 18 Jun 2015, 07:35

By measuring the voltage at sensor's input you can't really damage anything unless you've shorted a pin to ground. The sensor's analogue outputs (around 1..25 V to 4V) then get processed by the board as below.

Terminals 1 and 2 from ETM block connector (centre pins) which supply blue and green small diameter wires with voltage ranging from 1 volt at idle to about 8.75 volts at full throttle to ECU.

You can supply 12V to thick green wire and chassis to thick brown wire to test ETM outside of the car's circuit.

Did you get P0120 and/or P0121 before starting Sacer conversion?

sombat · Post by **sombat** » 18 Jun 2015, 23:05

I was able to remove one side of the old sensor and confirm the resistant film under light. It shows some scraping areas. Then I realized I skipped the important step to measure the voltage. I connected the unit back with one side removed (may be or with Sacer unit) then I put black probe to car's engine and red to number 1 as show on this picture. I noticed the voltage much higher than I expected. Then the throttle started flapping back and forth. After disconnected the throttle, and turn the key pos II again the gas tank indicator and speedometer moved up and down and obd ii port does not response anything.

Today I turned the key to pos II again and my car's battery voltage is draining. Yesterday, I disconnected the etm but let the battery connect. Is that causing the battery loosing voltage? Should I disconnect the battery?

I did get P1053 from my 20$ Maxi Scanner.and from checking the film, It assures me the only thing that I got it right

My attempt in the past week. Ordered used etm, same p/n different year, tried out, found out that need correct etm program then ordered Chinese dice and struggled with installation and able to get vida run in virtual xp but dice was not found. So tried another route with Sacer. and here I am.

What happen if I have shorted a pin to ground? What part could be damaged? Is there anything I can check? Is there any way I can get the electric system back so that I can put the other etm to run.(it runs idle at high rpm, limp mode but moving)

I truly appreciated all comments here.

Post by **abscate** » 19 Jun 2015, 04:33

My attempt in the past week. Ordered used etm, same p/n different year, tried out, found out that need correct etm program then ordered Chinese dice and struggled with installation and able to get vida run in virtual xp but dice was not found. So tried another route with Sacer. and here I am.

The cloned versions of VIDA do not perform software updates so this won't work. Henry (doublebug) on this forum and Volvo are your options for software changes.

sombat · Post by **sombat** » 19 Jun 2015, 14:04

Tomorrow I plan to get a tow to a shop to fix the electric problem. Still don' t know why the battery is draining out.

sombat · Post by **sombat** » 20 Jun 2015, 08:38

To update on the situation, just got the battery fully charged and engine was able to run ( a little piece of good news). I might not have to get the car tow.

Post by **precopster** » 20 Jun 2015, 17:10

P1053 wasn't relating to a throttle sensor fault. The original ETM probably wasn't repairable.

Battery voltage is critcal so always good to check it during a diagnosis.

If that ETM is from different year the Sacer sensor won't help.

With your Dice, an internet connection and MVS user doublebug you can have this baby going without a dealer.

For this you don't need Vida however the Dice must be recognised in Device Manager.