2001 v70 2.4T Driver Door Glass and lock cylinder swap

[packetfire]

A Fedex truck caught my driver's door with its bumper, and rather than spend the money on bono work and paint, I simply bought a complete door off a wrecked car. Replacing the door was simple (but requires 2 people to get the door on, as it is heavy, and the hinge pins are hard to see). Everything works as expected, but now I must swap the door lock cylinder from the old door, so the keys I have will open the lock mechanically in the event of a dead battery or keyfob.

I'd also like to swap in the glass from the old door, as it is tinted.

Neither of these processes are documented anywhere, and VADIS is no help on the process of getting at either one.

Looking at the door, I do not see much in the way of the "easy access" of the 240 series doors. Can I buy a vowel?

[turtlehead]

The door lock replacement is not all that hard. The lock is in the door handle, which is attached by two torx bolts that are hidden under a fairly small (one square inch) black plastic plate on the rear edge of the door- rear meaning towards the rear of the vehicle. Pry off the plastic plate with a screwdriver, then remove the torx screws (t25 or 27, I don't recall exactly which right now) and once they are off you can pull the door handle out, and then use a slight twisting motion to pull it out of the door- the other end is merely hinged in place and once you pull the rearward portion of the handle loose, it will come off.

The hardest part for me was getting the new handle in, I had to remove the door panel and loosen the latching mechanism so I could jiggle everything around a bit in order to get the handle to align with the latch.

As for the door glass, you need to take the inner panel off, which you do by prying off the edges and then removing the single torx screw in the inner handle. The master switch has three electrical connectors, and there are a few other electrical plugs inside the panel that you will need to look for and disconnect. Once the panel is off, you will need to re-attach the master switch so you can position the window correctly. First slide it all the way down and look where the window has just disappeared into the door- the trim that the glass slides through has to be pried loose, so start at one end and gently remove it. Once this is done, you will need to raise the glass (using the master switch, again) to give you access to the two points where the glass is attached to the regulator. The regulator is connected to the glass by two round plastic things that move back and forth in a slider as the window is raised and lowered. The plastic things are held in place by u-shaped spring locks. Use a screwdriver or needle-nose pliers (or both) to pull off the locks (don't drop them, they will fall into the recesses of the door!) and then gently pry the arms of the regulator out- they are a ball-and-socket type of mechanism. Once the arms are disconnected from the glass, you will be able to maneuver the glass up and out. Take a look at the plastic sliders while you are at it, make sure they are in good repair and not broken. I've had several Volvos where the glass wouldn't go up straight, and the reason it does this is one of the plastic sliders is broken, allowing one arm of the regulator to become dislodged.

I wrote this up from memory, those others of you who recall the procedure better please feel free to correct.

Now that you see the complexity of removing the door glass, you might want to consider having someone tint the existing window glass, but that's up to you.

[packetfire]

Thanks for the hints, mine is slightly different from yours. First, window goes fully up, then battery is disconnected, as one never knows, do one? After removing the interior trim panel (well-documented in several videos on youtube), my door had a rubberized pad glued to the area at the rear of the door.

Pulling it off reveals 2 holes and a larger open area where one can stick a hand or two. Peek in there, and look toward the latch, and you will see two rods that are threaded like wood screws, held by plastic fingers. Put some masking tape on the rods below the plastic fingers to mark the location of the plastic clips. Pry the fingers open a bit with a flat-blade screwdriver, and pull on the rods to pop them out.

Now remove the two nuts that hold the latch to the door with a socket and an extender bar, there is a small round hole above the large opening for each. Don't drop those nuts, the door has nooks and crannies. The nuts hold a half-pipe bracket, which comes off the studs.

Now take a flat-blade screwdriver, and pry up gently on the black tabs that extend downward from the latch over the inner surface of the sheet metal, and pull the entire latch up, and out, twisting toward the front wheels to get the rods out.

Assembly is the reverse of removal. The rubber was reattached with a hot-glue gun borrowed from a "crafter", but caulk or rubber cement would work too.

...and always put the ignition key to position II before reconnecting the battery, or the Volvo Gods will curse your SRS and CCM modules.

On the glass, I peeked at it , and decided that discretion was the better part of valor, so I beat a hasty retreat to the window-tinting, stereo-installing, dashcam-selling, subwoofer freak, and let him tint the glass that was in the salvage-yard door.

Not so bad a job, maybe an hour total.