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Tailgate rattle

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Fix Tailgate Rattle Once and For All
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redbrick
Posts: 74
Joined: 6 February 2007
Year and Model: 2005 V50 T5 AWD
Location: Spencerport, NY

Tailgate rattle kit

Post by redbrick »

stoutlogic wrote:Image

Anyone every tried this tailgate repair kit from FCGroton? My engine is now tight be the tailgate rattling is driving me nutz. Scan -Tech products tailgate panel kit pn# O2075-183126
I used this kit on my tailgate. It does a nice job of reinforcing the stock clip beds. That said, it did nothing to eliminate rattles. It was only after I had this all back together that I realized that one of my major rattles has been the plastic molding that frames the windows. A bit of Cinelli Cork bar tape stuck in the right spots was much more useful than this kit. That and the Tootsie Pop stick that I wedged between the license plate holder and the plate :wink:

greasefingerss
Posts: 208
Joined: 25 January 2007
Year and Model: 850 wagon 1994
Location: Northern VA, USA

Post by greasefingerss »

redbrick wrote:
stoutlogic wrote:That and the Tootsie Pop stick that I wedged between the license plate holder and the plate :wink:
That
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bekko
Posts: 24
Joined: 25 November 2007
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by bekko »

I installed new tailgate shocks and the FCG tail gate clip kit because most of my clips had broken off. I also adjusted the latch hook which is bolted to the frame to make the tailgate latch down more tightly. But, the plastic sleeve covering that latch hook had been worn away and this allowed enough play to create a rattle. A little electrical tape wrapped around the latch hook really quieted things down back there. The electrical tape will not last long though and will have to be reapplied at some interval until a more permanent solution is found. Like was noted above, one of the most annoying squeeks was where the plastic piece on the top of the tail gate interior panel meets the plastic running vertically on either side of the tailgate window. I did not have cork, but glued a piece of felt in between the two pieces where they meet.

'98 V70

-steve

Alwick
Posts: 146
Joined: 7 February 2006
Year and Model:
Location: Boston,MA

Post by Alwick »

Used the FCP kit the other week, not perfect but certainly better than it was.
A note, when pushing in the top of the panel and clips, don't force the tailgate to "hyper" extend, as you can pop off one end of the tailgate struts. I found out the hard way when the gate came slamming shut on my upper body.
Luckily I had replaced the struts a week prior, so I figured this out, popped the trim off and reinstalled the end of the strut that had come loose.
New struts, I might add, are a godsend!
'98 V70 GLT

jinglebuddy
Posts: 17
Joined: 11 February 2009
Year and Model: 1997 Volvo 850 T5
Location: New Bedford, MA

Post by jinglebuddy »

Hi all!!
I was so fed up with the rattle from the tailgate trim, and this is my solution, works great!! This could be the PERMANENT solution!
You need the following:
4 square nylon anchor nuts. I used Hillman .304 x .440. (image1)
4 stainless #8 screws, should be longer than 1 1/2.
3 stainless tee-nuts. 1/4-20 x 5/16 is perfect. (image2)
3 1/4-20 threaded rods, should be longer than 5".
3 washers and locking nuts with nylon insert.

You can buy all of these from your local hardware store, like Lowe's or HomeDesperate.

Remove the tailgate trim. There are 4 elongated ovalish holes in the bottom of the tailgate, where the plastic clips should go into. The square nylon nuts fits perfectly in there. There are 4 pockets on the right under the rear window, again where the plastic clips should go into. The tee-nuts fits right in there, you might even have to force it a bit. You can't put the tee-nut in the middle driver's side, as the threaded rod will interfere with the wiper arm. Do not put the threaded rods into the tee-nuts just yet. On the trim, drill holes from the INSIDE on both top and bottom, right in the middle of the clip mounting point. The top holes should clear 1/4 threaded rod, and small hole in the bottom, I did mine with 3/32, which is plenty big for #8 screws. Put 4 #8 screws part way into the trim so it sticks out just enough to locate the nylon nuts. Once they are lined up, you can screw them in, the nylon nuts spreads slightly and holds the trim in place tightly. Now, on the top side, you feed the threaded rods through the hole, and screw them into the tee-nuts. Put the washers, and the lock nuts and tighten it. I'd be careful not to over tighten it. I used a grinder to cut off the excess threaded rods, and you are done!! My 850 still has a plenty of rattles, but at least I completely eliminated one!

jinglebuddy
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Last edited by jinglebuddy on 17 Sep 2009, 14:34, edited 1 time in total.

Ozark Lee
MVS Moderator
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Year and Model: Many Volvos
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Post by Ozark Lee »

p.s. I have some pictures of parts and stuff, but I don't know how to upload it, would you help??
Sure,

Either in your edit screen or the reply screen - just below the main field - you will see an Upload attachment field.

Click the Browse button and then go to the folder on your computer where your pictures are located. Select the picture that you want to upload and then press the Add the file button.

A popup will appear that tracks the file upload progress and then a Place inline button will appear at the bottom of your original response or post screen.

Move your cursor to the place where you want to place the picture and press the Place inline button.

You can do it numerous times per post but you need to reposition the cursor to the desired position after every upload since it wants to go back to the top.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

s2zeller
Posts: 165
Joined: 15 May 2009
Year and Model: '18 S60
Location: Madison, WI
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Post by s2zeller »

Somewhere on the web, I found a suggestion of using rubber grommets to reduce the holes that the plastic clips snap into.

After about a year, they still seem to be holding my plastic trim in place with nary a rattle.

squeaky3
Posts: 81
Joined: 27 January 2008
Year and Model:
Location: Austin, TX

Post by squeaky3 »

I see this problem has been discussed for at least 4 years. Fortunately, I don't have a rattle. What I have is a partially or mostly unattached tailgate panel. I was able to open up the panel enough without removing the difficult latch to see there are no clips in the standoffs. The standoffs, if that's what they're called, are all intact, and I have the clips, also intact. I just can't figure out how to get the clips into the standoffs. Can someone please explain, show me, how to do that? (I have info from Volvospeed but it's for an 855 or V70, so I don't think it applies. And it doesn't tell me how to get the clips into the standoffs anyway.) Thanks to all who have been suffering with this issue.

chax
Posts: 59
Joined: 5 November 2008
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Location:
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Post by chax »

I removed the entire inner panel, but still have the rattle! To test it, I repeatedly hit the tailgate (in the fully opened position) with the side of my fist, and still can't determine what is rattling. It might be the inside tailgate handle (used to open it from the inside), or (possibly, but probably not) the license plate bracket.

I hope to thoroughly investigate soon: I'll update then.

howie
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Joined: 21 May 2008
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Location: East Lansing Michigan
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Post by howie »

Is there a thread about how to remove the inner panel?
2000 Volvo S70 SE, 145.000 on the clicker Gone

1998 V70R 195.000 Gone

2008 C70 86K

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