1998 V70 oil leak and PCV issues

Post by **SonicAdventure** » 12 Aug 2015, 11:39

1998 V70 base 2.5L NA

Was replacing sway bar links on car this weekend. Noticed some evidence of a fluid leak, appeared to be engine oil on the right hand bottom on the driver's side. Appeared to had some fluid on external trans housing on the metal behind the main axle boot. Can't really tell where the oil is coming from. Whatever the leak is, its more of a "seep", BUT....

I realize that it could be cam seals, or possibly RMS starting to go. That said, I do have some smoke from dipstick, but not much. Car has 233K, realize that if I want to keep the thing running will have to do the PCV system. Also realize I need to do timing belt.

Assuming I have some seal seepage, what are the chances that spending the time and money on the PCV system would reduce engine pressure enough to back some of the seepage off?

I suppose before I do any of this I should probably get a cylinder compression test before spending any further money. What is the bare minimum cylinder pressure for these motors? In other words, I'm trying to figure out if its even worth spending another dime on or just run it till it quits. If cyl compression is within spec, whats more important doing the breather box and addressing the oil leak, or doing the timing belt?

decisions, decisions.

mika · Post by **mika** » 12 Aug 2015, 12:18

I would def help. I had one car that PCV was fixed, and stopped leaking. Another one, PCV was fixed and it continued leaking (RMS got popped out probably). So it could go either way.

For now, pull the dipstick. Get a foot and a half of heater hose (I think its 5/8) and put it over the dipstick tube (with dipstick removed) and route the hose down towards the ground to blow off excess pressure and steam. This way you will relieve some pressure for now (easy temp fix). I drove like this all winter before PCV got fixed. Obviously, do your rear seals if you can (under distributor and under the crank sensor) if they are leaking, easy job. Cortico seals on IPD are dirt cheap.

My opinion? Put work into timing belt instead of PCV for now, just do the dipstick mod for now. I still don't know where my 850 is leaking from, seems everywhere and PCV is all nice and patent.

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 12 Aug 2015, 13:41

A busted TB will kill your car and/or your wallet, but oil leaks just show where you have been. You should be putting on your second TB. I think the time is 105,000 miles between.
I could do both in one day now, but not the first time. The rear main is pretty simple to spot, as it usually comes right out the bottom. Anything from up top around the rear of motor could be rear cam seals. Do the compression test and post up numbers. Someone will say good or bad.
Shane

Post by **abscate** » 13 Aug 2015, 05:21

Car should be about half way through belt number 3, 90k interval

Do you know when it was last done?

on edit - INTERVAL FOR 1998 is 70k, not 90k - see below

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 13 Aug 2015, 06:12

abscate wrote:Car should be about half way through belt number 3, 90k interval

Do you know when it was last done?

I read 90,000 some places and 105,000 others. Would like to know what is correct one.
Is it the same on my '99? Last one done at 96,000, so that would put next one at 186,000, by the 90,000 change.
Just asking?
Shane

Post by **abscate** » 13 Aug 2015, 08:14

Early P80s had different TB schedules
I'll come back and add these in to complete this reference

On edit - Source - compiled for Volvo NA Owner Manuals from each year - does not account for service bulletins subsequently published.

1993 850 50000 miles for belt and tensioner
1994-1997 70000 miles for belt and tensioner
1998 V70 70000 miles for belt and tensioner
Corrected FROM PREVIOUS POST for 1998

105k for 1999 on. I suspect the new tensioner had better MTBF
p2 gets more complicated 105-150k depending on VIN but I would stick with 105k

Shane..I'm a risk taker but I also gathered some info in a thread on TB failures that indicates an MTBF of something like 150k If you have a cheap runner, sometimes you can't afford to drop the TB bucks, so at least you know how many chambers of the gun are loaded :-O

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 13 Aug 2015, 08:55

Good information. Looks like I am good till around 200,000 on my '99. The '06 is due at 120.000, according to the manual. It's sitting at 119,000 right now. I was hoping I wasn't looking at two TB changes in a short time frame.
Shane

Post by **abscate** » 13 Aug 2015, 12:13

I think you will find your 2006 is up on time, just like mine.

120,000 miles or 10 years, first occurring.

I confess I changed my 1999 belt at (blush) 137000 miles and 12 years. Im guessing I was about one or maybe two cylinders loaded in timing belt roulette on that car.

Ive promised my 2006 a new belt the next month without a major expense. That car is way too sweet to ruin.

Post by **SonicAdventure** » 13 Aug 2015, 17:13

Thanks for the insight guys.

I looked a little closer last night there is def. a leaking sending unit of one kind on the back of top of the engine, right about 11 o'clock from the air filter housing if you were facing the front of the car. That's one thing I've narrowed down for certain.

There is a Volvo timing belt sticker (looks old no reason to suspect seller faked it) that shows belt replaced at 140k, car currently has 233k, so I know I'm pushing past the limit.

Will get a compression test done in the next week and I'm also going to vent the dipstick tube per the suggestion above.

also going to inspect the belt by taking the housing off, I'm curious as to how it looks. Will post back, thanks

Post by **abscate** » 13 Aug 2015, 18:53

The oil pressure sender is on the left side of the engine ( front of the car) but that's hard to see...its under the intake manifold down low.

A pic is 1000 words of course.

The belt isn't your enemy, it's the hardware that seizes and takes out the TB which then self- terminates the engine, or at least the head