Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.
So I'm in the process of disassembling my struts to replace spring seats (turned out not torn at all even though I could spin the top of the strut with a wrench) and I'm down to removing the washer to get at the boot and bump stop but the washer seems to be seized on...is this a common issue? any tricks to get it off?
Also, I've got a nasty clunk which made me think it was the spring beat, but, could the bearing cause a clunk too? (it looks pretty beat up and I'm replacing anyway...
Yep, soak it and smack it. Then replace them, maybe the bump stops and boots too
Do you feel any "wiggle" in the strut mount bearing? If so, they're junk. Might be a good idea to replace the spring seats now anyways. Also check the ball joints, tie rods, end links, sway bar bushings...all the usual suspects when dealing with "clunk"
'00 S70, '04 S60 and the never ending quest for Stage Zero
Finally got the washer off with a bunch of PB Blaster, smacking, and some choice words. Everything is reassembled now and 80% better compared to before...the bearing in the mount was very wobbly and crunchy so those may or may have not been original. Now on to try and figure out the other sources of clunk on big bumps now.
Check the anti-sway bar bushes. If you have the Volvo original anti-sway bar, disconnect the end link rods and gently see if you can rotate the anti-sway bar. Look carefully at the bushes when turning the bar. If you can see a gap between the bar and the bush the bushes are toast and are the likely 'clunk' you get over bumps. Did you check the condition of the end links? They are also a good option for the clunks. Finally, check the lower control arm bushes and ball joint for movement.
Another place to check id engine mounts. Particularly the mount under the crank pulley and the top torque mount between the engine and bulk-head.
Neil.
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