Can someone help me identify these lines?
The white thing on the right in the pic is the oil filter. You can only see one of the lines in the pic, the other is on top, they run parallel for a bit. One looks to me to be going into the radiator (tranny fluid cooler?) and I couldn't easily trace the other. They go right past the oil filter and to the passenger side of the engine to an aluminum piece that's torx screwed on.
Bonus question: If they are leaking, what am I in for?
The story is this: My son wrecked our '98 V70 T5 and I recently bought the '98 S70 GLT (the fluid lines are on this car.) I'm using the V70 as a parts car for the GLT now. It's pretty obvious that the steering rack is leaking and I'm in the process of pulling it off the V70 to go to the GLT. I power washed the underside after buying it so that I could see what I was working on and now I see what appears to be another leak. The steering rack is a big job, I know.
1998 S70 GLT What are these lines?
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scot850
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They look like the pipes for the engine oil cooler. They should run to the radiator upper and lower RH (passenger side) rear of the radiator. The other ends should go to the oil cooler thermostat positioned just under the crank pulley. They are a pain to replace as there is one bolt that is put in at a downward angle into the front face of the engine block near the oil filter. I had to use a lot of fine engineering words to talk to these parts when removing and particularly replacing that clamp that holds the 2 pipes together.
Are the pipes actually leaking and it isn't oil transfer or leakage from the "o" rings at either end?
The thermostat is no longer available so be careful with it. I have to remove it as after 3 attempts by the dealer to stop a leak at the thermostat to oil lines it still leaked and I was selling the car. The told me it was the pipes need to be replaced, but it was only the 'O' rings had been nicked due to a build up of hardened oil on the seating face. I ended up removing the thermostat and cleaning it and gently scraping the oil off. I had already replaced the pipes and was in no hurry to remove and re-install the good originals so left the new ones on and kept the originals.
Take your time and to access the thermostat you can do it through the access panel in the RH inner fender liner.
Neil
Are the pipes actually leaking and it isn't oil transfer or leakage from the "o" rings at either end?
The thermostat is no longer available so be careful with it. I have to remove it as after 3 attempts by the dealer to stop a leak at the thermostat to oil lines it still leaked and I was selling the car. The told me it was the pipes need to be replaced, but it was only the 'O' rings had been nicked due to a build up of hardened oil on the seating face. I ended up removing the thermostat and cleaning it and gently scraping the oil off. I had already replaced the pipes and was in no hurry to remove and re-install the good originals so left the new ones on and kept the originals.
Take your time and to access the thermostat you can do it through the access panel in the RH inner fender liner.
Neil
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
- jreed
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I had to replace those oil cooler lines a while back on my '97 855 GLT, which I think is similar to the '98 S70 GLT. I wrote up a short DIY here:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=56014
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=56014
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
Thank you! That removes a lot of the mystery. There's oil on the line beginning a few inches up from the pictured joint and is wet on the lower, metal, section. I've just assumed it's from the joint. I haven't pulled out the inner fender liner to inspect yet. I do have the parts car and could use it's lines and oil thermostat. Maybe just replace its o-rings?
Again, thank you.
Again, thank you.
Two months later, replaced these. (Along with a lot of other work, like steering rack.) Glad to have been able to take my time. Had to buy new, no one in my town is able to fix them. That was pretty disappointing. It was also disappointing when the top clamp to the radiator didn't hold the oil hose on after I started the engine and oil blew all over the immediate area and pooled on the floor. I still managed to laugh about it.
When I put it back, I backed up the clips to radiator with standard hose clamps and that has done the trick so far.
Thanks for the help and handy write up!
And, yes, that 10 mm bolt holding the brackets to the engine is a nightmare. Picture the dad in "A Christmas Story" fixing the furnace. I practiced my "fine engineering" words, too.
If you do this and are all proud of yourself for managing to pull it, just wait until you try to put it back on. It's a good time to try meditation. It demands extreme patience and a precise positioning of the body and arms. Feet toward the rear for me.
Also, as some have stated, it was worth it to me to pull the wheel well liner to access the thermostat and give it new seals.
When I put it back, I backed up the clips to radiator with standard hose clamps and that has done the trick so far.
Thanks for the help and handy write up!
And, yes, that 10 mm bolt holding the brackets to the engine is a nightmare. Picture the dad in "A Christmas Story" fixing the furnace. I practiced my "fine engineering" words, too.
If you do this and are all proud of yourself for managing to pull it, just wait until you try to put it back on. It's a good time to try meditation. It demands extreme patience and a precise positioning of the body and arms. Feet toward the rear for me.
Also, as some have stated, it was worth it to me to pull the wheel well liner to access the thermostat and give it new seals.
- jreed
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Congratulations! Glad to hear the job was a success in the end! 
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
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Ozark Lee
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The secret to life on the oil cooler line mounting bracket bolt is to remove the bolt that holds the air conditioner compressor to the mount.
Removing that bolt is no picnic either but once it is out of the way the bracket bolts up with ease. I have a small pneumatic ratchet that, once I break the compressor bolt loose by hand, will zip the bolt right out and then back in.
...Lee
Removing that bolt is no picnic either but once it is out of the way the bracket bolts up with ease. I have a small pneumatic ratchet that, once I break the compressor bolt loose by hand, will zip the bolt right out and then back in.
...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
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benpineapple
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I had an oil cooler line go bad, it was difficult to visually tell where on the line the leak was coming from, as the entire line was coated with oil. As I understand, the crimps wheres the rubber connects to the metal ends can weaken and leak over time. I think it would be more likely that is the source of the leak. Tough to say for sure without seeing the entirety of the line.WyoVolvo wrote:Maybe just replace its o-rings?
It is absolutely no picnic replacing any of them, especially the ones pictured. When I did mine, I had to unbolt the lower engine mount and lift my engine up an inch or so in order to get enough clearance to access the torx bolt on the lower end. Robert DIY did a great video on those 2 lines: www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6cJ0qMzby0 If I were you, use that video as a base reference. I had a hard time accessing some of the bolts in the exact way that he did.
2006 V50 T5 [190,xxxM]
2013 XC90 FWD [80,xxxM]
2001 V70 X/C AWD [sold at 120xxxM],1998 V70 AWD [RIP at 249,255M], 1990 240 [SOLD at 220xxxM]
2013 XC90 FWD [80,xxxM]
2001 V70 X/C AWD [sold at 120xxxM],1998 V70 AWD [RIP at 249,255M], 1990 240 [SOLD at 220xxxM]
It's all done. O rings, lines, bruised hands, all new. The hose to metal clamp is where the leak was. I don't remember which tutorial I used. Really, the job was easy.
Except for access to fasteners. But that has made me a more patient man.
It was easier than changing out the steering rack, though. Even though it's pretty satisfying to have pulled that off, next time that comes around, I'll pay a mechanic.
Gotta say, though, back in the day, before forums like this, it would have been a lot harder to try this job.
Thanks again.
Except for access to fasteners. But that has made me a more patient man.
It was easier than changing out the steering rack, though. Even though it's pretty satisfying to have pulled that off, next time that comes around, I'll pay a mechanic.
Gotta say, though, back in the day, before forums like this, it would have been a lot harder to try this job.
Thanks again.
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ferocity02
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My line(s) are leaking too, but its a slow enough leak I haven't bothered to change them just yet.
The lines look like they are $100+ each
Anyone just cut the metal tubing ends off of the original line and clamp in a new piece of hose? Seems like an easy and simple solution that could be done for under $10.
The lines look like they are $100+ each
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