2003 V70na Clutch Enagement Woes

frknvgn · Post by **frknvgn** » 22 Sep 2015, 12:00

2.4 base here with the manual trans. I had my clutch done maybe 20k ago when the slave cylinder went. They put that bugger in the housing next to the clutch... Recently I've noticed my clutch engagement to be higher on the pedal and more abrupt. Maybe 20% into the clutch is where 80% of the engagment/disengagement happens. It used to be much more linear. Sometimes I feel it's like it used to be, but more often than not, it feels like I've described. Could this 'self adjusting' clutch master cylinder be at fault? I have 117k miles on the car and it's probably the original master cylinder, and maybe even original brake fluid. I've had it since 80k and I've never done it.

My disclaimer: I have a (bad?) habit of trying to double-clutch heel-toe on downshifts and depending on footwear I can be better or worse at it. I've gone through high performance driving school, so I thoroughly understand the concept of it, but I'm certainly not an expert. When I'm not hitting each downshift just right, it's not slipping like a beginner trying to drive stick would, but rather it causes an abrupt shock to the car. Not good of course, but not causing glazing/overheating of the clutch material. I figure my behavior would affect engine mounts before the clutch.

waffleshill · Post by **waffleshill** » 22 Sep 2015, 15:09

Clutch adjustment is in the pressureplate. Not mater cylinder. Did the shop lube the input shaft of the transmission properly? That can cause engagement issues. The M66 cars have that issue. Not 100% about the M56 cars.

frknvgn · Post by **frknvgn** » 23 Sep 2015, 06:13

Well this issue didn't pop up until recently, and the clutch is about 20-25k miles old now, so whether they did or didn't might not be the issue. However, the shop I took it to has been working on Saabs and Volvos since the 70s. They're the go-to shop in my area for Swedish makes, so I'd put good money on them doing it properly.

frknvgn · Post by **frknvgn** » 23 Sep 2015, 08:41

I'm realizing now it could be a glazed clutch. I bought a bluetooth OBDII reader to check codes and timing. It also offered estimated 0-60 times, 1/8 and 1/4 mile speeds and times, etc. I did maybe 6-12 standing start pulls, and I didn't dump the clutch to let the tires spin, so I did a bit of feathering. I don't remember smelling burning clutch so I can't be sure, but it would make enough sense considering the symptoms. If it is a glazed clutch I wonder if I can wear through the glazed material; I mean, if the clutch is going to wear out at some point, and I don't overheat it, then I have to wear through material, hopefully finding un-glazed friction material at some point, right?