1998 S70 Overheating

[Sommerfeldt]

Jesus. Here's another car-scrapper.

So let me get this straight. You've got a leaking heater core. That's where your drip is coming from - there's no coolant going back there. You overheated once, probably because some moron gummed up your ride w/ some kind of easy fix stuff.
There was no damage from the overheating.
You have a suggestion on the table - ECT sensor - which you brush aside.

And now, you want to scrap the car because you've spent a couple of hours chasing a problem? You know what, it's probably still gummed up from whatever BS was put in there, and you just can't be bothered.

- S

[FLXC90]

If there is still air in the system, the temp rises until the coolant "burps" then your temp drops, possibly because the coolant level drops and the sensor is reading air. Sounds like you fixed the causes, but still need to get the air out. Are the coolant overflow tank and cap new? Is there any whitish film on the top of the tank around the cap? As mentioned earlier, low system pressure can lead to coolant boiling.

Edit: saw where you described cap condition. Also, the residual fluid is just making its way from the geyser that was your heater core.

[sourcaffeine]

Jesus. Here's another car-scrapper.

So let me get this straight. You've got a leaking heater core. That's where your drip is coming from - there's no coolant going back there. You overheated once, probably because some moron gummed up your ride w/ some kind of easy fix stuff.
There was no damage from the overheating.
You have a suggestion on the table - ECT sensor - which you brush aside.

And now, you want to scrap the car because you've spent a couple of hours chasing a problem? You know what, it's probably still gummed up from whatever BS was put in there, and you just can't be bothered.

- S

I didn't brush anything aside, I just simply don't have time to work on it anymore.

Unlike some people, I work generally 16 hours/day 7 days/wk. A couple of hours chasing a problem is a long time, for me.

[FLXC90]

What part of Tx are you in? maybe another forum member is near by that might be willing to help hands-on?

[rspi]

First off, you should never open the coolant system on these cars when the engine is hot/warm. Wait till the temp is at the lowest indicating dash or first thing in the morning.

No need to get a Volvo heater core but hey, they work, usually Behr. Try to see if the head gasket if bad. If so, it will empty the coolant system out of the coolant reservoir while the car is running.

[rspi]

On another note, if the car is cold, and you start it with the reservoir cap off, you should see NO movement in the bottle. If the head gasket is bad, you will probably see movement. Once the thermostat opens, movement in the bottle begins.

Also, if your water pump is off brand, you may want to replace it ASAP. I have seen aftermarket water pumps fail in less than 2 years or 20,000 miles. Especially the eBay junk. Pulled one off of a car 2 days ago. Had the entire engine shaking and knocking.

As mentioned above, the impeller can come off of the pump and fall into the engine. Had it happen to a 960 I purchased. Usually on pumps older than 10 years old. In this case, I would suspect that one of both of the radiator hoses will be cold vs hot like the coolant should be.