1994 850 Turbo (AT), Transmission and Exhaust issues

L33t A2 · Post by **L33t A2** » 10 Apr 2007, 16:37

Sorry in advance for the long read...

My dad moved out of town and left me his Volvo 850 Sedan, it is a 1994, has dual chamber headlights (does that make it a mid year changeover?), it is the Turbo model and has an Automatic transmission (...snore).

I was using it every other day (a few months ago when it was very cold and my car didnt not want to run well for the first 10 minutes) and it developed an exhaust leak somewhere around the cat.
Of course the exhaust leak got rid of some back pressure and I noticed the turbo seemed to kick it up one more notch because of this. Then I was gleefully standing on it a bit more. After a while the exhaust section busted off from the end of the cat. Giving even better boost response and no more horrendous boost lag when the car shifted from 2nd to 3rd under WOT.

The entire exhaust, starting at the downpipe, is the original one. It is quite rusty in some places and I see no way of fixing it. The cat has also been dragging a bit and the end where you would attach the cat-back has ground off at an angle. I thought I would be able to just buy a new cat, but then realized that the cat is integrated to the downpipe

***I am looking to buy a replacement exhaust for this car, It does not have to be performance oriented, but if the price is right...
Looking to spend the least money possible right now as the car will be sold very soon. What are my options for replacing the cat, in addition to it being ground down a bit it is due for a replacement according to the secondary O2 sensor, plus the car smells like rotten eggs half the time I drive it.

In addition to the whole exhaust issue, the Transmission has been going haywire. The upshift arrow or whatever comes on and/or flashes and suddenly the car refuses to go out of 3rd gear, I try to select and then deselect winter mode switch, but no change. If I select L then it sometimes goes into 2nd. Sometimes the car smells like burnt clutch/hot brakes after I keep driving a few minutes in "Limp" mode. It starts either immediately after the first time it shifts out of first but can take up to 15 minutes of driving when it is very cold. I dont really trust the car to get me anywhere anymore so I havent driven it in atleast 1 month. This past weekend I took it to the gas station to fill up the tank and check the tire pressure, and there were no problems with the trans but then again it was only for a couple minutes. I did some reading and did find that theres some kind of module under the AirBox that most likely is the culprit. Also something about Solenoids? Im very lost as I am only used to working on older Pre-OBD 4cyl VWs which dont have many(if any at all) things to throw codes.

larryh · Post by **larryh** » 10 Apr 2007, 18:09

it sounds to me like you should just sell it now...as is. don't spend money on the exhaust when the tranny, among many other things, could very well be shot...

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 10 Apr 2007, 19:19

Quite the laundry list of items. I'm going through a "restoration" [Get it to run, oh, and then run reliably for my daughter] on a Porsche at the moment and I am doing it system by system.

What you need to do is stand back and look at the trees rather than the forest. Break it down into systems.

You have a '94 so you have gobs of information available to you through the OBD ports. As a base line I would read all of the codes from ports A-1, A-2, and A-6. Record them and clear them. The instructions are here:

http://volvospeed.com/CheckEngine.php

You also need to download the factory service manual if you have not already done it here:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/downlo ... vo_850.zip

I would then start with the thing that is potentially going to cost me the most money to fix and then start with the easy stuff surrounding that system. Read and post your A-1 codes, that is your transmission. I would also budget for a transmission flush, which means you buy a whole gob of transmission fluid and keep running it out until it looks red instead of black.

There are several good writeups on the board but MIJ's is the most comprehensive. *I don't have an automatic transmission so I am far from the expert in the field. Search the repair database for details.

Assuming that the transmission isn't toast it is now time to move to the exhaust. A massive exhaust leak causes errors in the O-2 sensor readings and thus the fuel mixture since the gasses never arrive at the sensors. That likely explains the rough engine. Read, post, and clear your codes from socket A-2.

At the end of the day, based on your description, you are likely looking at a complete exhaust system but between eBay and FCP Groton it isn't that bad in terms of price and it isn't hard to do. Try to save your O-2 sensors if you can, the worst that can happen is that you do need to change them which I think you have already suggested that you were planning on doing anyway.

My 2c,

..Lee

L33t A2 · Post by **L33t A2** » 10 Apr 2007, 20:22

yeah so far i found a new cat back exhaust system made by bosal for $216 shipped and the two 4 wire o2 sensors im going to splice, so thats 60 bux there, not too bad... the transmission flush, oh man 12-14 quarts is a crapload of money, im used to my car where you remove the drain plug and let the old fluid come out, put plug back in and pour in 2 qt thru the fill hole and be done with it. I have to get under there and take a good look at the cat and see if its fine/salvageable/ruined. A new cat is only 54 shipped but I would have to get it welded in. Fortunately I have a friend that can weld.

Im not really worried about anything other than the transmission. I'll have to shell out for the flush, and possibly a new PNP or whatever. If the torque converter or anything thats not accessible from outside the bellhousing is shot, then the car is getting scrapped or sold for a couple hundred.

L33t A2 · Post by **L33t A2** » 10 Apr 2007, 20:32

P.S. In all my reading so far I havent been able to find a part number for this so called PNP switch. Searching only pulls up the most irrelevant information.

OK I spoke too soon, I found it on FCP Grotons site under Misc.
For anyone else searching its 9466012

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 10 Apr 2007, 20:50

I've heard that AutoZone can get you a "special order" PNP switch for around $85.00 but it takes a couple of days to get it in. The good news is that it is the OEM switch.

Best of luck,

...Lee

EDIT:

I thought $85.00 sounded high - to many Porsche parts from FCP lately - They are actualy $45.00 at AZ - Prepaid.

...Lee

L33t A2 · Post by **L33t A2** » 14 Apr 2007, 16:37

Today I put a new battery in the car, drove it around, the transmission didn't mess up once, and there was no flashing arrow in the instrument cluster.

I checked the Codes and this is what I got. There seems to be something wrong with the A6 Ignition deal cause there was no blinking at all. I also didnt check any of the B side codes because There was no jumper wire on that side, do you use the one from over on the A side?

A1
313 Faulty signal from gear position sensor (PNP)
322 Incorrect gear ratio

A2
Clear

A3
214 Right rear wheel sensor, no signal on moving off
141 Faulty pedal sensor, shorted to ground or supply
142 Faulty brake pedal switch, open or short
213 Left rear wheel sensor, no signal on moving off

A5
No connector to plug in.

A6
Had no response to any amount of pressing or holding the button, no flashes at all

A7
122 Temp. sensor interval too long

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Apr 2007, 21:44

There was no jumper wire on that side, do you use the one from over on the A side?

Yes, the same flywire is used for all systems - A or B.

Clear all of the codes in every system and see what comes back. As far as A-6 goes, some cars read it and some don't. I wouldn't loose any sleep over that one.

...Lee

L33t A2 · Post by **L33t A2** » 15 Apr 2007, 09:22

Drove to the grocery store today, the check engine light was back on and the flashing arrow returned as well as limp mode. I ordered a new PNP switch from rockauto for like 55-60 shipped.
I'm gonna check the codes and clear em again once this "noreaster" passes over.
I also took a look under the car and the downpipe is pretty rusty and the end of the cat rusted off at the weld where the additional foot of pipe attaches that has the second O2 bung. So it looks like I'm gonna have fun putting on the new Bosal OE Exhaust

Is there anyplace that has a new stock or aftermarket downpipe/cat for under $400 ? I finally found the Bosal OE Downpipe/Cat, Part # 099-6291, at one online retailer, I think it was car-part.com, and they have the Part number as BO0996291, for $406. I really wish I could find something less expensive. I could pick up a universal cat for about 55-85 bux and have it welded in and all, but I feel like it would be a real PITA because of the rusting and more than likely would be a very short term band aid. I also saw an OE replacement downpipe on ebay but it looked like some cheap thin Taiwanese garbage and was not name brand and was $430, screw that. I hope maybe I can find someone on here or Volvospeed who upgraded to an EST or Viva 3" and still has a good stock one laying around for the cheap.

L33t A2 · Post by **L33t A2** » 15 Apr 2007, 16:27

I searched and found a DEC brand DP/Cat on eeuroparts.com, looked into it a little bit more and found the real part number for it, searched some more and found a place that carries the DEC brand Direct Fit Cat w/ loose 3 bolt flange for $293.95 shipped, they also have the non turbo 2 bolt and 4 bolt ones as well for the same price.
http://performance.speedycarparts.com/

I'll come back when parts start arriving and put some pictures up.