2001 V70 T5 Overheated Needs Head gasket am I crazy

oorhett · Post by **oorhett** » 06 Oct 2015, 14:47

So just purchased a 2001 v70 t5 with a bad radiator for my daughter. Ran well engine sounded fine drove it down the street and back.
Towed it home put a new radiator in and let it warm up, upper hose was hot lower was not as hot but warm.
Turned the heater on made sure vents were blowing hot.
Temp gauge read normal but couldn't get the fan to come on.
Took it on a test drive ran great, temp gauge reading normal the whole time.
Took it on the freeway ran strong got off the freeway came to a stop and started misfiring, temp gauge was still reading fine.
Looked under the hood coolant still in reservoir, radiator fan blowing hard.
Drove about two blocks and heard a pop and engine quit and wouldn't crank(Hydro Locked?)
Checked coolant reservoir was completely empty so added some coolant tried to crank again which it did and exhaust puffed a great white cloud.
called a friend to tow me home.
After a couple days checked oil with dipstick no milkshake, no evidence of antifreeze in the oil.
Tried to crank, it started up but running really rough, noisy and wont stay running.

So not sure what caused it to blow the head gasket unless it was week from previous owner and decided to blow on me after putting in the new radiator or did I overheat it? why didn't the gauge read properly, did I not bleed it correctly?

I have done head gaskets on cars before Saab, BMW and Toyota but I've talked to a couple friends and they say don't even try it, another said you have to have a special $400 tool but I didn't see anything like that in the STEP-BY-STEP TUTORIAL REPLACING HEAD GASKET: VOLVO 5-CYL but he was doing an older engine It seems. Should I just find a good used engine? if so what should I expect to pay. Or Should I tackle the Cyl Head any advice would be great

Thanks

oorhett · Post by **oorhett** » 07 Oct 2015, 17:12

Update - did a compression test 130, 125, 35, 120, 140
decided to fill the coolant reservoir with coolant to do a pressure test and the #3 cylinder filled up with coolant. Still no water in the oil pan.

While cranking to check compression motor sounded OK no bad noises.
But this thing got pretty hot all of the wiring plastics attached to the engine, ie fuel injector harness are brittle and fall apart and the plastic cover for the spark plugs and coils was melted around the edges.

Post by **oragex** » 07 Oct 2015, 19:13

This guy does use some sort of a tool

I would find out first why it was misfiring when the engine got warmed up, perhaps some coil or coil wiring are shorted/melted. The top engine getting overly hot is another thing to diagnose. These engines do get quite hot, but some issues can add to it to get them even hotter to the point of melting the plastic cover. There might be fuel mixture issues causing the combustion chamber to overheat. Also check the thermostat has the right opening temperature and the water pump works fine.

oorhett · Post by **oorhett** » 08 Oct 2015, 13:06

Thanks for the link that helps a lot.
Pretty positive that the misfire was the result of the head gasket leaking and allowing coolant to enter cyl #3 and then our running it longer until the gasket really let go.
Water pump, thermostat, and Timing belt were replaced by a local euro shop less than 100 miles ago.
My question now is if we damaged the lower part of the engine.

Post by **abscate** » 08 Oct 2015, 18:59

Probably not. Bottom end of these engines is really tough

Post by **chrism** » 08 Oct 2015, 20:24

How many miles are on the car?

If you decide to pull the head and can do it without separating the cam sprockets from the cams, then you shouldn't need any alignment tools to reassemble. But I'm not sure if you can do that or not. Just make sure that before you remove the timing belt that you have the cam sprockets and crank on their index marks. If, once you rotate the cams up to their marks, you find that the crank mark is vague, then mark the crank sprocket-to-engine with a Sharpie. That should put the pistons in "safe zone" and make reassembly and retiming much easier.

oorhett · Post by **oorhett** » 22 Oct 2015, 08:36

Update - Pulled the Head, Gasket was bad on Cyl 3 water was on top of cyl 3 and 4. Water was in the turbo to exhaust housing (as I separated them water came out). Took the Head to a local machine shop they checked it and found it to be OK said a couple valves were a little leaky but not enough to worry about but they did resurface it. All back together now have a loud ticking noise thought, it was lifter noise but when I open the oil cap it doesn't seem any louder thinking possibly spun bearing? Also when started it was burning water through the exhaust (lots of white smoke and moisture out of tail pipe) I let it run for about 30 min got it up to temp for a while smoke lessened but never full went away. let it sit overnight started the next day still ticking pretty good not really any exhaust smoke any suggestions?

bojified · Post by **bojified** » 22 Oct 2015, 10:41

On two occasions after rebuilt head I had the tic that I swore was a lifter (one domestic v8 and one red block turbo) and both were head to exhaust manifold leak. On the v8 had the dealer stumped for a bit as well. Considering you don't think the sound is louder inside the valve cover use a stethoscope around the manifold. Good luck.

oorhett · Post by **oorhett** » 22 Oct 2015, 15:13

I need to get a stethoscope, Did do a leak down, all the cylinders were less that 20% loss through the Piston rings into the crankcase, except #2 which was still only showing about 18% loss but into Cyl #3 I plugged #3 and same amount of loss through the crankcase.(#3 was not leaking into #2 which doesn't make sense to me). Still burning water and I'm pretty sure the ticking noise is Camshaft/Valve. Maybe this machine shop missed a Cracked or Warped head and just did a resurface or the block is messed up.

oorhett · Post by **oorhett** » 28 Oct 2015, 22:39

Well I had to let the car sit for a few days to catch up on Schoolwork. Got back at it yesterday started up still has the loud tick tick tick sound, but not smoking out the tail pipe like before at all in fact no smoke, some moisture is all, Decided to try the .5 quart ATF in Oil Trick to see if it would quiet down the noise warmed it up for a good while with no change so decided to drive around my neighborhood noticed a lot of smoke out the back not from exhaust and not white, go home and found a great amount of oil was sprayed all over the back lower part of the engine under the turbo. Drained the ATF/Oil out and replaced the oil and filter, cleaned everything up, refilled with new oil and filter and ran the car but can't tell where its coming from must be doing it under boost all cam seals have no sign of leaks, rear main looks ok as the flywheel is dry, turbo oil return looks dry where it attaches to the turbo.