ETM software
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precopster
- Posts: 7543
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Re: ETM software
Doublebug is a very skilled an amazing man. He located and transferred sw from his database to a used ETM for me and I finally have a normal smooth idle and cruise control after giving away my ETM to a customer last year.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
Can anyone point me to the correct procedure for transferring the software from the old to the new ETM, please?
The ETM in my wife's V70 has just failed, and I'll have to replace it with a new one, because the old is nearly seized - I can barely turn the butterfly by pushing it, and the spring is unable to return it to its original position when released. I guess the bearings and/or the magnet in the motor are dirty/rusty?
Thanks!
Pepsov.
The ETM in my wife's V70 has just failed, and I'll have to replace it with a new one, because the old is nearly seized - I can barely turn the butterfly by pushing it, and the spring is unable to return it to its original position when released. I guess the bearings and/or the magnet in the motor are dirty/rusty?
Thanks!
Pepsov.
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
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What year V70 is it? PM user doublebug (upthread) to arrange the xfer if you have DICE, otherwise its a trip to a dealer or someone with DICE
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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precopster
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If you're very patient, have soldering skills and can spend afew hours on disassembly it can be fixed.
The magnet has an aluminium sheathing around it. This can be cut off with a Dremel tool. Under this you will find loose iron filings which are grouped at both exposed poles. The iron filings expand either through vibration or moisture entry and cause the aluminium sheathing to rub against the armature.
You can remove all the loose iron filings by scraping them off with a toothbrush. The bad part is that the plastic cover over the magnet can now slide sideways over the poles. To avoid this movement you can centre the plastic cover & set the plastic cover with silicon sealant.
The magnet is now clearanced away from the armature (or windings) It will never scrape again and cause a stuck throttle or blown fuses.
The magnet has an aluminium sheathing around it. This can be cut off with a Dremel tool. Under this you will find loose iron filings which are grouped at both exposed poles. The iron filings expand either through vibration or moisture entry and cause the aluminium sheathing to rub against the armature.
You can remove all the loose iron filings by scraping them off with a toothbrush. The bad part is that the plastic cover over the magnet can now slide sideways over the poles. To avoid this movement you can centre the plastic cover & set the plastic cover with silicon sealant.
The magnet is now clearanced away from the armature (or windings) It will never scrape again and cause a stuck throttle or blown fuses.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
Dear Mike,
Yes, I discovered similar things myself by carefully and patiently disassembling the ETM (thatnks to all the information in this and other similar threads in this forum!)
I did not cut the aluminum sheathing, but simply pressed the expanded/bulged parts of the cap back, by inserting increasingly thicker layers of kapton tape between the windings of the armature and the aluminum cap, and then rotating the throttle plate until finally I got the magnet to move freely. I was either lucky to not brake anything in the process, or truly brilliant to find a solution that did not require cutting of the sheathing
The ETM is back in the car now, and works fine. Apparently the brushes of the potentiometers are still fine (the car has 175k miles in 15 years), but I want to do the SACER mod, because the brushes will fail sooner rather than later.
I went on and purchased the SACER set (for $112) and got an ETM module from the junk yard (for $50), and installed the SACER in it. Adjusted the idle voltage to 1.37V - exactly as it was on the replacement ETM before the mod - and tested it. It works, but I have the rough idle and momentary hesitations described here by so many people, which I attribute to the firmware version in the replacement ETM being incompatible with my ECU. I was getting systematically P1017, P1020, P1021 and P1025.
So, I am driving happily around with the original ETM now, and am looking for a way to copy the software from it into the replacement one. That would be a more lasting solution.
I wrote to user "doublebug" but never got any response. Do you know if he's still active in this forum?
Is he the only person who can walk me through the process? I am pretty familiar with programming all sorts of electronic devices, so a brief list of general instructions might be enough.
I have a general-purpose OBD-II reader (ELM327 v1.5), but do not own a DICE. I am willing to invest in one though (any recommendations? A particular "Dice Pro Plus" model seems to be rather popular these days - any thoughts?). I have a working VIDA on a laptop, so I'm almost set for the operation.
Yes, I discovered similar things myself by carefully and patiently disassembling the ETM (thatnks to all the information in this and other similar threads in this forum!)
I did not cut the aluminum sheathing, but simply pressed the expanded/bulged parts of the cap back, by inserting increasingly thicker layers of kapton tape between the windings of the armature and the aluminum cap, and then rotating the throttle plate until finally I got the magnet to move freely. I was either lucky to not brake anything in the process, or truly brilliant to find a solution that did not require cutting of the sheathing
The ETM is back in the car now, and works fine. Apparently the brushes of the potentiometers are still fine (the car has 175k miles in 15 years), but I want to do the SACER mod, because the brushes will fail sooner rather than later.
I went on and purchased the SACER set (for $112) and got an ETM module from the junk yard (for $50), and installed the SACER in it. Adjusted the idle voltage to 1.37V - exactly as it was on the replacement ETM before the mod - and tested it. It works, but I have the rough idle and momentary hesitations described here by so many people, which I attribute to the firmware version in the replacement ETM being incompatible with my ECU. I was getting systematically P1017, P1020, P1021 and P1025.
So, I am driving happily around with the original ETM now, and am looking for a way to copy the software from it into the replacement one. That would be a more lasting solution.
I wrote to user "doublebug" but never got any response. Do you know if he's still active in this forum?
Is he the only person who can walk me through the process? I am pretty familiar with programming all sorts of electronic devices, so a brief list of general instructions might be enough.
I have a general-purpose OBD-II reader (ELM327 v1.5), but do not own a DICE. I am willing to invest in one though (any recommendations? A particular "Dice Pro Plus" model seems to be rather popular these days - any thoughts?). I have a working VIDA on a laptop, so I'm almost set for the operation.
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precopster
- Posts: 7543
- Joined: 21 August 2010
- Year and Model: Lots
- Location: Melbourne Australia
- Has thanked: 8 times
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Henry is the only person I've encountered that can handle Volvo software transfers from one module to another. More often than not he has the firmware in his database.
Just so readers of this thread understand what is going on, Henry is actually transferring the software from his database to your new ETM. Sometimes his datababse doesn't have your particular firmware so he will then backup yours and transfer it over the internet to your car. Your Vida software has no value in this operation. It's the Dice tool that allows transfer via Henry's own transfer software.
Just so readers of this thread understand what is going on, Henry is actually transferring the software from his database to your new ETM. Sometimes his datababse doesn't have your particular firmware so he will then backup yours and transfer it over the internet to your car. Your Vida software has no value in this operation. It's the Dice tool that allows transfer via Henry's own transfer software.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
- shiloh51933
- Posts: 1005
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Last night my wife's'04 XC70 started up running rough, info screen read something about poor performance, would throttle past 2000rpm, then CEL goes on with P2111. P2111 stated something about throttle acuator being stuck open. Where is the throttle actuator for the ETM? I thought the old V70xc had all the ETM issues, I a '98 V70 XC without the ETM.
If U Wanna Play U Gotta Pay!!
Present Volvo Ownership:
2008 Volvo XC90 V8 Black
2004 Volvo XC70 OEM-HID model Silver
Previously Owned Volvo:
1996 Volvo 850 GLT Silver
1998 Volvo V70XC Dark Blue
1998 Volvo V70XC Dark Blue
2000 Volvo V70XC/SE Dark Blue
2004 Volvo XC90 T6 Gold
Present Volvo Ownership:
2008 Volvo XC90 V8 Black
2004 Volvo XC70 OEM-HID model Silver
Previously Owned Volvo:
1996 Volvo 850 GLT Silver
1998 Volvo V70XC Dark Blue
1998 Volvo V70XC Dark Blue
2000 Volvo V70XC/SE Dark Blue
2004 Volvo XC90 T6 Gold
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 35298
- Joined: 17 February 2013
- Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
- Location: Port Jefferson Long Island NY
- Has thanked: 1505 times
- Been thanked: 3818 times
The 2004 has a much better ETM, it's the 1999-2001 Magnetti Marelli ones that cause trouble at about 100k miles. None of the stuff in the ETM threads will apply to the 2004
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- shiloh51933
- Posts: 1005
- Joined: 5 March 2010
- Year and Model: 04 XC70/'98 V70XC
- Location: New York
- Has thanked: 28 times
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Thanks for response, actually I know what happened, there's a spring loaded actuator between airbox and l/F head light that I got my latex gloves caught on which in turn pulled it apart causing issue.abscate wrote:The 2004 has a much better ETM, it's the 1999-2001 Magnetti Marelli ones that cause trouble at about 100k miles. None of the stuff in the ETM threads will apply to the 2004
If U Wanna Play U Gotta Pay!!
Present Volvo Ownership:
2008 Volvo XC90 V8 Black
2004 Volvo XC70 OEM-HID model Silver
Previously Owned Volvo:
1996 Volvo 850 GLT Silver
1998 Volvo V70XC Dark Blue
1998 Volvo V70XC Dark Blue
2000 Volvo V70XC/SE Dark Blue
2004 Volvo XC90 T6 Gold
Present Volvo Ownership:
2008 Volvo XC90 V8 Black
2004 Volvo XC70 OEM-HID model Silver
Previously Owned Volvo:
1996 Volvo 850 GLT Silver
1998 Volvo V70XC Dark Blue
1998 Volvo V70XC Dark Blue
2000 Volvo V70XC/SE Dark Blue
2004 Volvo XC90 T6 Gold
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