Engine turns off at random, no fault codes.

pierced4207 · Post by **pierced4207** » 05 May 2011, 15:01

My 2001 volvo turns off randomly when i turn but then cranks right up.The check engine light doesnt come on so there are no codes for the mechanic to see i was told that i wouold have to wait to figure it out until it gets worse and more frequent. I was almost the cause of a terrible accident in an intersection because my car decided to turn off while going through it. Any advice would help, Thanks!

Post by **Fish stick88** » 05 May 2011, 15:08

You might get more better advice if you make the Topic a better one, like (Car Random Shutdown or something)
does it happen everytime your turn? only sometime? any preference for turns? right? left? hard turns? turns in moderation(light)? we need somemore info!
Aj

sandyqcar · Post by **sandyqcar** » 07 May 2011, 10:40

Hey,

I honestly am not sure if this could be your problem, but I had the same thing happen to me on
my '99 S80. Acutally it happened a couple times for like 3 days (once I was going around a corner)
After the three days the temperature gauge dropped to nothing, check engine light came on and I found out that I needed a
water temp sensor. Really not sure if the two are connected but it stopped "stalling" after that was
fixed

Polvora79 · Post by **Polvora79** » 07 May 2011, 10:57

I´m still facing this problem, replaced MAF, cleaned the throttle body, new air filter, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, new fuel injectors, and still doing it...now I´m waiting for a new fuel pump next week. I´m really sad about it. money flows and the car is not even good enough to sell. who will buy a car which runs great except for an idling problem. At idle the engine quickly alternates being surges and calm and turns off randomly......

2000 Volvo V70 2.4l turbo

Post by **Hartzellst** » 19 Apr 2012, 15:26

Im having the same problem with my 04' XC90 T6. It has happened to me twice within the last month. The first time I was coming to a stop on a slight hill and the second time was after coming to a stop on level ground. They were not hard stops that could cause the engine to cut out due to slamming on the breaks. I have to put the car in park and then it starts right up no problem and doesn't throw any codes. Im really dreading taking it to the shop. I don't know if it would be related to my transmission. It is starting to slip so its going to the shop regardless, but I am going to hate to see the work order. Any help would be greatly appreciated as well.

DFWvolvos80 · Post by **DFWvolvos80** » 12 Jun 2012, 23:48

I have had the same problem with my 2000 s80 for about three days now. I got the car from a wholesale, it had the ck engine light on, after cleaning the etcm, replacing ignition coils 1,2,3,&6 a new mass air flow sensor, and a new IAT (intake air temp sensor) and air/fuel filter the ck engine light went off, but car started stalling everytime i cornered or applied the brakes enough to cause the transmission to downshift (basically everytime the RPMs come down to idle it cant maintian idle, sometimes surges and then stalls). I am looking at the timing belt next and maybe the camshft position sensor. Any other thoughts? i will post futher if i figure it out, thanks

DFWvolvos80 · Post by **DFWvolvos80** » 13 Jun 2012, 15:16

Howdy ya'll i have some progress to report on the stalling problem with the s80. Although there are many possiblites as to what is causing the frequent stalling, here is something worth a try: I was having the same problems as many of the owers out there such as the car stalling when comming to a stop, stalling when cornering, and surging. I thoght that perhaps (since i had cleaned the ETCM only last month) that it was bad gas (you know from one of those el cheapo gas stations the 87 octane with 10% ethanol) so when i was almost empty last night i went to a good gas stationand put the 93 octance in along witha bottle of dry gas and STP fuel injector cleaner, no change. Then i remember back to when i was cleaning the ETCM that there was a guy on youtube that said that a frequent cause of ETCM issues was too much oil in the engine that got 'pushed' through the manifold and drained down into the ETCM causing the intake plate to stick and drag. I had changed the oil aboiut two weeks earlier and put the 7.3 quarts (exactly) as specified in the manual. So i parted the air intake from the MASS AIR FLOW sensor and idled tha car while spraying a small amount of carb cleaner into the intake hose. It has only stalled twice today and the surging is subsiding. I think that is the root of my problem at least so before you shell out 800+ bucks for a new ETCM grab a screwdriver, some carb cleaner and give this 10$ fix a try...more to come as i root out the problem. Probably should start with 5.5 qts oil next time and add half qt increments to get to the middle of the dipstick.

Dr eric · Post by **Dr eric** » 25 Jul 2014, 00:40

Hi I have the same problem and as one of the guys said that if oil sneaks through it does cause that problem, but may mechanic just found out what the main reason is its something to do with the throttle valve that controls the speed I am no mechanic so that's the best he could explain it to me but I ask him again in more detail:)

Post by **Edurado** » 27 Oct 2015, 09:07

Did anyone have any luck finding the XC90 sudden shut downs? MIne just started acting up and my mechanic is also puzzled. Please help.

Alaskastar2000 · Post by **Alaskastar2000** » 14 Nov 2024, 09:34

I had chased this issue for 3 years, as right now its my only car.

I did, at one time lose 3 pistons, and continue to drive around on the remaining 2 cylinders for over a year before rebuilding the engine. Being poor is a horrid life.

When I rebuilt the engine, I replaced every sensor with new- except one.

I changed all the coils, injectors, new turbo, all new plumbing, radiator, intercooler, AC pump, every hose, new timing belt, timing gears, every actuator, etc.

What I found was a hose clamp on the outlet side of the intercooler was aged, and while the screw was tight, the hose was loose, letting air out.

New clamp made a huge step forward, but...

The engine would still randomly shut down.

Having Alaska plates on my car, I would just turn on the hazards and pull over, people assume I am lost, and no big deal.

I got curious one day, and while the car was idling, I opened the hood, and rapped on the air filter housing repeatedly- the car immediately shut down.

I ordered a new MAF sensor, waiting for it to arrive. In the meantime: unplugged it.

Interestingly- when the MAF is unplugged, the Cruise Control is disabled. Very odd. Turned out the sensing element was loose on one end, and tapping the air filter housing rattled it away from making contact, and with no signal, engine shuts down.

So a few days into this, the car still randomly shuts down.

But...

I got codes. All 5 ignition coils and all 5 fuel injectors.

What runs the injectors and igntion coils?

Crank position sensor & cam position sensor.

I know the crank sensor is new.

The cam sensor is old.

Hall Effect/ magnetic sensors typically will have a small magnet inside that is affixed to one end of a steel rod that has a coil wound around it. When the end of the sensor is near something magnetic, like steel, the magnetic field stretches out, and the electrical effect in the coil is a downward voltage, then when the steel is moved away from the sensor, the field snaps back, creating an upward voltage. This makes a sine wave that the computer uses to reference its operation on..

That little magnet inside the sensor? It can die a slow death due to something called the Curie Effect. Heat + Magnets is a bad mix. But... its what we have to work with.

For those that have engines shutting off with no reason and no codes? I suggest changing your crank and cam sensors, and testing your MAF sensor.