Vibration - has me stumped

[gunner]

to help with vibration on any car, these tips helped me , LOTS! .... road test car on a road and determine speed of "worst " vibration, and note this speed .

Rotate wheels with no other repair , retry on same road at same speed as per first road test.

Is better? or has it moved? it will be likely in wheels & tires. If it hasn't moved its likely power train....like cv shafts . Ripped CV Boots loose grease fast , and allow water & grime in ... shafts have a short life span if this happens .

You can inspect wheels for inpact bends most common to inside wheel flange , near bead of tire . Mismounted tires is another possible source , tires should be installed , with soap, inflated & deflated totally to endure the sit square on rim. Then balanced .

I looked for excessive wheel weights (compare one tire to others ) and see if one sticks out as having more weight , this could indicate excessive run out , which will cause vibration.

Vibrations under 60mph/100kph I found wheel balance usually at least part of problem, and when over these speeds it was wheel or tire.

Axle shafts can cause a pulse in steering wheel at low low speed too , as
the car is turned in either large or short radius turns , check this in Mall parking lot.... Cheers !

[dcarlson12]

I have the ECM-644A code (ECM 644A)
Did you ever resolve your problem?
Car runs fine but does set the CEL so maybe will have to find myself a solution before next year when will have to pass Air Care

[537playing]

This info is from ViDA to help solve your code error


Possible source
Faulty position
camshaft belt has jumped out of place on the cogs
defective reset valve
mechanical fault in the Variable valve timing (VVT) unit
Faulty control
defective camshaft position (CMP) sensor
Control too slow
open-circuit in signal cable
open-circuit in power cable
contact resistance
short-circuit to ground in signal cable
short-circuit to supply voltage in the signal cable
low oil pressure
poor oil quality
defective reset valve
mechanical fault in the Variable valve timing (VVT) unit

[dcarlson12]

I am just wondering if it might be my oil. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic but have had a small leak (not sure if from oil return line flange connection on the right turbo) so I did put in a small amount of seal conditioner in hopes of maybe revitalizing seals.
Perhaps this is having an effect which might be undesirable.
I have been changing oil every 7500 miles because do mostly highway driving. I have had the car garaged for about a year and only starting it every two weeks or monthly to keep the battery charged and fluids 'flowing'. Maybe it has just been sitting too long and silting from the oil maybe causing problems with the reset valve????
I first noticed the 644A DTC after doing one of my routine start/charge sequences. i.e. it was not doing it when I was driving it prior to garaging it.
Wondering if something like 'Restore' might help flush crap out of the reset valve and/or CVVT control 'sprocket mechanism'.
It runs well and I drove it two days before it set the CEL (644a code).
I see some people have used Seafoam in the past and others won't touch it with a 10 ft pole.
Have anyone ever tried 'Restore' on a Volvo engine and ,if so, what were the results?

[alanjackson]

Hello, I have a similar problem which I think is a DRIVE SHAFT PROBLEM.

I have vibration which is MUCH worse on left curves.

Recent MOT test and wheels all balanced - and re-checked because the vitiation was still there.

As I said it is worse on left bends but not on R/H bends.

If it is a drive shaft does anyone know which one it would be L or R ?

[Cees Klumper]

Check both driveshafts for play on the inside bearings, you can do this by hand. My money is on the passenger-side one but check both. Also check both wheel bearings?

[VVfsfs]

I looked for excessive wheel weights (compare one tire to others ) and see if one sticks out as having more weight , this could indicate excessive run out , which will cause vibration.
http://www.casesam.co.uk
http://www.ourcase.co.uk

[cmbfoto]

Many shops are not equipt with the proper wheel balance equipment. First off never use a cone on the front hub. Volvo never intended that hole to be true and cracking that cone could cause long lasting damage. Next find the shop that does have a five finger flange unit to accomadate you alloy wheel. Plus the wheel weights could cause damage if there wrong. Buy a rim flange gauge to purchase the correct weights.

I hope this makes sense to the basic wrench.

Chris

[vinman52]

Hi guy's and gals,

Here's a quick tip on checking your CV Joints. This applies to all front wheel drive vehicles.

1. Find and empty lot or supermarket parking lot. (not a dirt field or dirt lot it can mask the results of the test)
2. Put the car or truck in an area that allows for a 360 degree turn to the left and right.
3. Turn wheels all the way to the left and make a gentle to moderate 360 turn once or twice or as many times as you wish. (don't get dizzy ;~))
Did you hear a clunking or clicking sound as you made the circle to the left? If yes than you have a bad left CV Joint.

Repeat this test with a right turn now.
Did you hear a clunking or clicking sound as you made the circle to the right? If yes than you have a bad right CV Joint.

If you heard noise from the left and right than both need replacing. If one of mine goes bad I replace both but you don't have too.

No noise from either side when turning than the CV Joints are most likely good.

I'm in my 60's now and have been working on cars, trucks, and wrenching motorcycles for most of that time. (in case you were interested)

Just to keep me busy now that I've retired my wife makes me repair most of the mechanical problems on her 2001 S80. I'm a lucky guy.
So much for retirement. :~(

Great website - Thanks for all the info.
Happy Motoring!
Vince.

[regent]

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