1996 850 GLT Wagon Sticky driver's side hood lock

s2zeller · Post by **s2zeller** » 08 Nov 2015, 13:33

After doing some work on the car (fuel pump, parking brakes), I wanted to pop the hood just to check some other things out. I pulled the hood release in the cabin and nothing.

After my wife tugged on the release, I was able to pull up on the front and free the driver's side of the hood. I then reached under the hood and pulled the cable to unlock the passenger side.

There was quite a bit of slack in the cabin release, so I adjusted that so there is just a bit of slack.

I locked both hood locks (keeping the hood up) and pulled on the release... nothing.

The only way I could get the driver's side lock to trip was the manual release on the underside of the lock, and this required a very strong push to trip the lock. The manual release on the passenger side was much easier.

I've sprayed some penetrating lubricant into the driver's side lock and will let that stew for a while.

However, I'm wondering if the whole lock itself should be replaced, or if there is some adjustment that can be made.

ferocity02 · Post by **ferocity02** » 08 Nov 2015, 16:14

I have a similar issue on my 98 S70. When I pull the hood release the right side will unlatch and the hood will pop up a little on the right side. To get the left side to release, I have to pull up on the hood a little after the right side is released, and then pull the hood release lever again and then the left side will unlatch.

A little annoying, hoping there is an easy fix.

s2zeller · Post by **s2zeller** » 08 Nov 2015, 19:34

Well, after 6 or so hours, the lock will release when I pull on the hood release.... though grudgingly. I'll douse it with some more lubricant and let it sit for 24 hours and see if it improves. If not, I'll probably try the salvage yard on Saturday.

Post by **cn90** » 08 Nov 2015, 19:59

Common problem.
I posted info in forum. Basically:

1. Locate the side latches.

2. Mark the existing latch position with the body panel with Sharpie.

3. Now loosen the two (2) (or 3 bolts, can't remember) 10-mm bolts a bit. Don't remove them.

4. Slide the lock down a bit, tighten it a bit.

5. Test it.

It is basically trial and error, but you will get it. Very very DIY!

Post by **cn90** » 08 Nov 2015, 20:01

BTW,

If the hood cable on your 1996 car is still stock, time to replace it before it is broken.
I was lucky, mine broke at 145K but it broke inside the cabin, so I could grab it with a pair of pliers.
Anyway, this is the DIY a while back...

DIY: 1998 S70 Hood Cable Replacement (The Easy Way)
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=53430

ferocity02 · Post by **ferocity02** » 08 Nov 2015, 20:05

cn90 wrote:Common problem.
I posted info in forum. Basically:

1. Locate the side latches.

2. Mark the existing latch position with the body panel with Sharpie.

3. Now loosen the two (2) 10-mm bolts a bit. Don't remove them.

4. Slide the lock down a bit, tighten it a bit.

5. Test it.

It is basically trial and error, but you will get it. Very very DIY!

I tried that but then the hood wasn't flush with the fender.

Post by **cn90** » 08 Nov 2015, 20:20

ferocity02 wrote:...I tried that but then the hood wasn't flush with the fender.

Open the hood and look underneath the hood.
There are 2 rubber cushions (about 1-1/4 inch x 1-1/4), are they still there?

s2zeller · Post by **s2zeller** » 08 Nov 2015, 22:19

cn90 wrote:BTW,

If the hood cable on your 1996 car is still stock, time to replace it before it is broken.
I was lucky, mine broke at 145K but it broke inside the cabin, so I could grab it with a pair of pliers.
Anyway, this is the DIY a while back...

DIY: 1998 S70 Hood Cable Replacement (The Easy Way)
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=53430

Yes, it is still stock (at 300k)

If I go to a salvage yard and find a new (to me) working lock, I'll see if there is a lower mileage cable available as well (not that a new one is that much... but I could still hook it up as a fallback should the main release fail.).

Seaway · Post by **Seaway** » 09 Nov 2015, 04:48

You can do what I did and add a bumper at the fan shroud (I used a couple layers of double sided tape) for the hood to land on. The hood should have two rubber bumpers on it. This creates enough pressure when the hood is closed for the release mechanism to work.

ferocity02 · Post by **ferocity02** » 09 Nov 2015, 23:20

cn90 wrote:
ferocity02 wrote:...I tried that but then the hood wasn't flush with the fender.
Open the hood and look underneath the hood.
There are 2 rubber cushions (about 1-1/4 inch x 1-1/4), are they still there?

Yes those square pads are there. I gave both latches a good soaking with WD-40, hopefully that will help.