99 c70 timing belt question
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corviarbob
- Posts: 27
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- Year and Model: c70 1999
- Location: michigan
Re: 99 c70 timing belt question
thanks i will see. i find it hard to believe it works like that. maybe i will get one from ebay and take it all apart and see why that happens.
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corviarbob
- Posts: 27
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- Year and Model: c70 1999
- Location: michigan
back to the timeing belt. i started taking the thing apart today and found the timing belt change sticker. it was last done at 113k and it has 190k so it is due now with 77k on this belt. and i have to ask this it looks like this car has 2 radiators so which one is the one i drain? i do see what looks like a drain but that resembles a hose barb sticking out of the bottom of the radiator on the drivers side next to a radiator hose? so before just turn this and break ti i figure i will ask. i could not just fold the inner plastic fender over like all the you tube videos show i had to remove it completely so i guess some of the rest of those vids will not be accurate for my car as well. i will figure it out but may ask a few questions along the way. tell me does coolant go to both those radiators one looks like it goes to the turbo, if so does the turbo use the same coolant as the engine?
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corviarbob
- Posts: 27
- Joined: 18 October 2015
- Year and Model: c70 1999
- Location: michigan
i just put a drain pan under the engine and took off the water pump. it came off rather easy. in fact everything came apart good the hardest thing was getting the belt from behind the crank pulley. the belt did not look bad i have seen worse but according to the sticker i found it was due had 77k on it. the water pump did not feel bad and the 2 small idlers did not have excess wear but they are off. now when the parts get here i put it all back. i don't think i will chance the seals at this time as i will need to figure out how to hold the cams for the front seals. and being this is not a terrible job if they do start to leak it look like a saturday job after i get the holding parts lined up. i may even start looking around for them or even make some. thanks
- abscate
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Your belt wasn't actually due for 105k miles on a 1999, or 10 years. That being said, your water pump is due unless you know the coolant has been changed on time. So, doing it is smart.
The second radiator is the turbo intercooler and has no coolant in it. It's really important to get the intercooler hoses tight as well as checking the hoses for splits, cracks, holes.
The second radiator is the turbo intercooler and has no coolant in it. It's really important to get the intercooler hoses tight as well as checking the hoses for splits, cracks, holes.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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corviarbob
- Posts: 27
- Joined: 18 October 2015
- Year and Model: c70 1999
- Location: michigan
thanks don't see anything really out of place on that set of hoses. i figures it must be some type of cooling system for the turbo being they went to that area. the belt got changed 2 times 75k and 113k so according to the other posters they all said 75k is the interval. no matter it is off the engine now and so it the pump and idlers. i get the new parts this week and will install them. thanks a bunch for the help on that second radiator.
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Ozark Lee
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Snap a picture of your engine and the timing belt area and post them back. The two radiator part has me perplexed since a N/A car doesn't have an intercooler but the turbo does. I want to be absolutely certain what we are dealing with here.
If the car is a turbo and if the front cam seals are leaking this just became a much bigger deal and you really can't properly do it without the cam adjustment tool to set the back of the cams at their zero point. If the car is a turbo with CVVT the hub is not keyed and it needs to be removed to change the seal. Since it isn't keyed the cam needs to be zeroed (actually it needs to be one tooth off) before the hub can be torqued back down. The required torque is pretty big, around 90 ft lbs as I recall.
If the car is a N/A without CVVT the sprockets are easy to remove and you just take off the three small bolts that hold the sprocket on and remove them. You can just hold the sprocket with your hand to remove the small bolts. I normally loosen them with the belt on since it is a bit easier to hold the sprocket with it on but either way it isn't a big deal.
When you put the sprocket back on you will note that the holes in the sprocket are slotted. Just set them back to the middle of their travel in the slots. I leave doing the final torque setting until after the belt is back on since you can be a bit more precise with the torque wrench. It is also reassuring that, if the cams do move, everything moves together and the timing is maintained.
Just use the "Upload Attachment" tab below the reply window to post the pictures.
...Lee
If the car is a turbo and if the front cam seals are leaking this just became a much bigger deal and you really can't properly do it without the cam adjustment tool to set the back of the cams at their zero point. If the car is a turbo with CVVT the hub is not keyed and it needs to be removed to change the seal. Since it isn't keyed the cam needs to be zeroed (actually it needs to be one tooth off) before the hub can be torqued back down. The required torque is pretty big, around 90 ft lbs as I recall.
If the car is a N/A without CVVT the sprockets are easy to remove and you just take off the three small bolts that hold the sprocket on and remove them. You can just hold the sprocket with your hand to remove the small bolts. I normally loosen them with the belt on since it is a bit easier to hold the sprocket with it on but either way it isn't a big deal.
When you put the sprocket back on you will note that the holes in the sprocket are slotted. Just set them back to the middle of their travel in the slots. I leave doing the final torque setting until after the belt is back on since you can be a bit more precise with the torque wrench. It is also reassuring that, if the cams do move, everything moves together and the timing is maintained.
Just use the "Upload Attachment" tab below the reply window to post the pictures.
...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
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corviarbob
- Posts: 27
- Joined: 18 October 2015
- Year and Model: c70 1999
- Location: michigan
took pictures but i don't see the upload attachments anywhere yet. found them did they show up?
the seals still look good so that dog is going to lie for now. thanks
the seals still look good so that dog is going to lie for now. thanks
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Last edited by corviarbob on 10 Nov 2015, 16:14, edited 1 time in total.
- regent
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Below the box where you type in text, there are 2 tabs: Submit and Full Editor; press the Full Editor to browse for attachments and upload
Example of Precision: Measure with a Micrometer, mark it with Chalk, and then cut it with an Axe.
Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that
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Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that
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- regent
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I can't see a turbo; it looks like you've got the VVT on exhaust cam only
Example of Precision: Measure with a Micrometer, mark it with Chalk, and then cut it with an Axe.
Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that
2015 BMW 335i
2015 XC60 T5 Premier Plus
2002 S60 2.4 n/a - retired
1987 340 DL - retired
Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that
2015 BMW 335i
2015 XC60 T5 Premier Plus
2002 S60 2.4 n/a - retired
1987 340 DL - retired
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