2001 V70 Crank no Start

morganbryane · Post by **morganbryane** » 07 Nov 2015, 07:37

I have a 2001 V70 that cranks but no start. I was running before I replaced the carpet and seats from a pull your own yard a week ago.

I have tested both the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay. The pump works when power is directly applied to the pump and there is fuel at the rail when I purge the rail.

The relay test is good when I apply power directly to it and there is continuity indicating the circuit is closed. I have tried with 4 good relays and still no start and still no power at the pump.

I have also removed the fuel pump relay and jump the connection at the CEM and the pump runs and can purge fuel at the rail but still no start. Since there is power at the pump when I jump the circuit, i think the wiring from the CEM to the pump is good.

There are no DCT codes but I do have a SRS Service Light on. The code was something no signal
from driver buckle.

Could I have a bad ignition switch or is there something that could be immobilizing the vehicle?

Post by **abscate** » 08 Nov 2015, 02:44

You have to isolate the cause between fuel, spark or other and ignore the work you did before.

Measure fuel pressure at the rail. If it's ok, move to the ignition system.

You can also use starting fluid as a test for ignition problems. If you get some firing with ether, look back at your fuel system

Your 2001 engine management system is really reliable.

01_Nautic_V70 · Post by **01_Nautic_V70** » 09 Nov 2015, 07:30

Oddly enough, I'm having similar problems today. I have a 2001 V70 T5 Automatic. I had the battery disconnected for several hours this weekend while I did a fill and drain on the transmission (in anticipation of getting the TCM updated this week by the dealer) and replaced the J-Tube on the EVAP charcoal canister. After these repairs, I took for it a drive (about 15 minutes.) All was well. Took it a few other places later that day, no issues at all. Late that night, I backed it out of the garage and parked it on the other side of the driveway. The car was probably running less than a minute. It sat outside overnight at about 45F.

Yesterday morning, I got in and tried to start. It sounded like it started but didn't catch fully. I probably just let go of the key a second too soon. Tried to start again. No luck. It will turn over as long as I want but never start.

Fuel pressure seems good at the rail (good squirt from pressing the Schrader valve, but I didn't hook up a gauge.) I've tried a procedure found on another site for what the user termed "Lawnmower Syndrome" where the engine runs a very short time and then is cranked the next day in cold weather. Apparently, the ECM commands a very rich condition and floods the engine. This attempted procedure didn't seem to work for me.

Next, I pulled the plugs and left the head open for an hour, trying to dry out a flooded condition. The plugs were wet when removed. I dried these, brushed them off and reinstalled. I buttoned up all the rest of the engine and tried to start. Again, it sounded like it tried to start for a split second. Continued cranking did nothing.

I can't get to the car again until after work today. I moved it into the heated garage and have a set of 5 new plugs waiting for me at the auto parts store. The battery is on the charger today as I had drained it trying to start the car this morning.

Does anyone else any ideas/suggestions? Where is the fuel pump relay located? Should I check for spark when I'm replacing them by holding one against the head while someone cranks the engine? If I were to try ether, where can I most easily get it into the intake?

morganbryane · Post by **morganbryane** » 09 Nov 2015, 17:15

The fuel relay is behind the kick panel just below the Steering wheel. There are two torx bots holding the panel on. If you pull the panel off the fuel pump relay is on the last row (ignore the red circle). This pic shows the fog lamp and fuel pump relay on the last row.

As far as my situations, I think need to figure out why when the key is on there is no current to the Fuel pump relay to complete the circuit to provide power to the fuel pump because there isn't going to be any pressure at the rail if the pump doesn't run at key on.

01_Nautic_V70 · Post by **01_Nautic_V70** » 10 Nov 2015, 07:08

Thanks for the relay info. The relay checks out good.

Last night I pulled the plugs, put a fan on the open head for an hour, put a half capful of motor oil in each cylinder and replaced the plugs with new. No luck. Tried starting with a few shots of ether into the air filter box. Nada.

Going to try to pick up a compression gauge tonight and check that as well as verifying I have spark when the motor cranks. I have all day off tomorrow to beat this problem into submission. Suggestions on what else to check?

Will a dial type air pressure gauge work to check fuel pressure? I assume the gas will remain trapped in the gauge afterwards, but I'm more than willing to sacrifice the gauge to find out if pressure is OK.

Can someone walk me through what exactly the immobilizer will and won't let the car do? It will crank all day long. Does the immobilizer prevent spark, or prevent cranking, or will it let the engine start and run for a few seconds. I'm reading conflicting reports on it as it seems the functionality changed over the years. I have a 2001 T5 myself.

Also, are there status/OK LED's on the antenna ring module to indicate it is working properly?

01_Nautic_V70 · Post by **01_Nautic_V70** » 10 Nov 2015, 07:11

I apologize for the wave of questions, but I have one more at the moment. I did replace the J-Tube on the EVAP canister this weekend. Is there any way that is related to my cranks, but no start condition? Can anything on the EVAP system prevent starting without throwing a Check Engine Light?

mbreed · Post by **mbreed** » 10 Nov 2015, 11:42

Morganbryane: That condition is normal. If the pump ran during key on engine off the fuel would have no place to go. It will activate for a second when key is turned on. And then promptly shut back off.

Nautic: I don't see how replacement of that J hose will cause your condition. If your evap purge valve is stuck open, it could great a rich condition. But that would come with a fault code. And would only cause an extended crank condition.

You could both benefit from removing your timing belt cover and checking your timing marks.

01_Nautic_V70 · Post by **01_Nautic_V70** » 10 Nov 2015, 11:59

Thanks. I'll take a look at timing tonight. The belt looked to be in very good condition when I was looking at it last night. No cracks, tension is good.

Post by **abscate** » 11 Nov 2015, 02:34

No fire with ether points to no spark. Confirm by pulling a plug with coil, looking for spark.

Next step will be confirming 12 VDC to the coil packs, they receive a common 12 VDc and are fired by grounding by the ECU. You might even want to look in your fuse box for the coil fuse and check that.

I believe you have ME7 on your 2001. I'll find link to thread

01_Nautic_V70 · Post by **01_Nautic_V70** » 11 Nov 2015, 08:33

The plot thickens.

Spark tester confirms all cylinders have good spark. Compression gauge indicated cylinder 2 had 50-60psi. 1,3,4 & 5 had 150+psi. Dried the cylinders and plugs out (plugs were soaked in gas) with a heat gun and added a capful of oil to each cylinder. Cylinder 2 over 150 psi. 1,3,4 & 5 around 180psi.

Put it all back together. Try to start. Coughs for a split second and then nothing. Attempt to crank for 60-90 seconds several more times. Never more than a cough at the beginning of a cranking session. Go to bed frustrated.

This morning, I wonder about fuel pressure. Key in RUN position, check fuel injector rail. 20-25psi at the rail. Not great. Key is still in RUN position. Take a second reading. 0 pressure.

It seems the pump primes the rail when I turn to RUN, but then the pump is no longer running. That does mesh with the symptom of just an initial cough instead of roaring to life. I can get spark and compression. I'm looking towards fuel as the problem now.

Also, timing marks seemed ok and no evidence of anything wrong with the timing belt. The previous owner estimates this was changed at about 110K. It has 138K miles on it now.

Thoughts? I've swapped the fuel pump relay. No change in symptoms. Bad pump? What does the pump controller do in the scheme of things? Is there a reason the ECM would tell the pump to stop delivering pressure at the fuel rail? This one really has me scratching my head.

Thoughts on why ether isn't starting it? I've shot it straight through the MAF.

Still no Check Engine Light on the dash, either.