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2004 S60 Oil Pan Removal & Low Oil Pressure warning light Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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oragex
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Re: 2004 S60 Oil Pan Removal & Low Oil Pressure warning ligh

Post by oragex »

precopster wrote:The o ring's design hasn't changed at all so why would their longevity? The same kit suits all whiteblocks up to 2007 in V70s and 2009 in S60s. The point I'm trying to make about the o rings is that if the pan were disturbed it would be prudent & ridiculously easy to replace them. They are not caught early enough on post 2000s until damage is done because of the lack of tappet noise when oil pressure is low (due to the non hydraulic design after 1999)

I agree with the rod bearings (and possibly main bearings as well) being part of the problem here but I would want to eliminate a $20 set of seals first before embarking on such a large repair. You don't just slide new rod bearings in even if it looks easy enough. You would want to take plastic guage measurements on all the conrod to crank clearances. In any case once the sump is re-opened all these items can be rechecked easily enough.

Just reading back, the only thing he doesn't mention is o-rings replacement. Was it done or not? PCV system oil drains were clear?

He says about checking the bearings, but there were metal fillings he found in the drained oil. It's not normal on any engine at this mileage, so were from?

frothberg
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Post by frothberg »

any news?? did you try thicker oil? new o rings?

Markus
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Post by Markus »

Hi all,

I'm German so please apologize my poor english.
Although this thread is quite old I would like to add my findings on my wife's V70 2.4 MY2001 with the same issue. After going through all the recommended bits like oil pressure switch incl. wiring, cleaning oil sump, replacing o-rings I replaced the valve which is placed on top of the oil filter housing (oil sump side) and the issue was gone! If the valve stays open due to slush oil flows from the filter housing back into the oil sump.
Hope this finding helps people to fix there oil pressuire issue.

Markus

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oragex
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Post by oragex »

Markus wrote:Hi all,

I'm German so please apologize my poor english.
Although this thread is quite old I would like to add my findings on my wife's V70 2.4 MY2001 with the same issue. After going through all the recommended bits like oil pressure switch incl. wiring, cleaning oil sump, replacing o-rings I replaced the valve which is placed on top of the oil filter housing (oil sump side) and the issue was gone! If the valve stays open due to slush oil flows from the filter housing back into the oil sump.
Hope this finding helps people to fix there oil pressuire issue.

Markus
Good to know, thanks for sharing

Markus
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Post by Markus »

Hi,

attached a picture of the valve

Markus
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zanzabar
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Post by zanzabar »

Erikinstockholm wrote: The rod bearings seem to be fine as well as the valve heads.
How do you know? Did you pull the rod bearing caps and inspect each one? I would also suspect a spun crank main bearing, this could open up a path for the oil to leak out too quickly leading to low oil pressure when the oil is hot and thin and flowing better than when it's cold. Pull each main crank bearing cap and inspect each one at a time.
VW TDI refugee
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cn90  
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Post by cn90 »

Experience from BMW forum, even after sludge cleaning, the oil P light is still on.
A trick is to remove the oil P sensor, crank for 3-4 sec to expel the gunk out of the port (place a rag there to catch oil).
Re-install the oil P sensor.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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SuperHerman
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Post by SuperHerman »

My first thought was that one of your o-rings dropped when the pan was reinstalled. One is known for this and people use a thick lube to hold it in. I would start there. Also, all of the o-rings should be replaced whenever the pan is dropped - it is good practice. I would have just rebuilt the oil pump, but that is past tense as it was replaced.

You stated he popped the head and cleaned the crud. This is good and bad - as it may have thrown a clot. I would run some heavy detergent, maybe diesel fuel/oil mix through the engine. My fear here is the turbo. Some one smarter can mention if it can be bypassed (made totally unoperational) as it requires good lubrication. Run it and rinse and flush. Maybe some thinner oil with added detergent (like Seafoam) and keep the revs up. Do it a few times with filter replacement until the oil is clean.

The other possibility is your engine is shot and needs some new crank bearings, but he said they were fine.

When I did my Xc70 oil pump rebuild it threw an oil light a couple times, but after that it never reappered. Maybe a break in period?

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jeffriehunter
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Post by jeffriehunter »

Thank You........I have cleaned out the pcv oil passage into the pan good and will replace all the o rings on the pan itself as well.

also.....the valve on the filter housing is bad I believe. I removed it and cleaned it good but no matter what I do I can blow through it in both directions. I am thinking that is a problem as it should only open up under pressure like if the filter gets clogged. Thoughts? Going to replace it anyway as well as installing a new oil pressure sensor.

That was a great thread, thanks for sharing!

aero1310
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Post by aero1310 »

whats the name of the valve?

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