1999 v70r engine options Topic is solved

fairmont50 · Post by **fairmont50** » 18 Dec 2015, 21:16

I have a '99 v70r (near 300k miles) with a bad engine. it is showing a code for a miss on cylinder 1 (p0301), the compression on cylinder 1 is 60psi and cylinder 2 is 90 psi. I have not checked the other cylinders since it really does not matter. The plugs and coils have been changed with no improvement.

As I understand it, a T3 2.3 engine from 99-04 anything will work in place of the T8 engine that is currently in it with no problems other that the slight loss of performance (and having to grind the T3 block for clearance on the angle gear).

Does anyone know if there are any other problems with this swap or if there are any other candidates available?

Thanks,

Chris

Post by **erikv11** » 19 Dec 2015, 09:27

I realize you didn't ask this but I would check compression on all the cylinders, make sure the gauge is working like you expect.

fairmont50 · Post by **fairmont50** » 19 Dec 2015, 09:46

Good point, will do.

fairmont50 · Post by **fairmont50** » 19 Dec 2015, 11:57

cylinders 3, 4 and 5 are all around 175.

Post by **rspi** » 19 Dec 2015, 19:10

Yes, the misfire is the first clue. Is it possible that you have a bad head gasket? I would do a leak down test.

Post by **erikv11** » 19 Dec 2015, 20:00

OK, the gauge is clearly not the issue.

Hang in there, someone who knows about your engine question will hopefully chime in. Ozark Lee and Mike (precopster) for example can give good advice, try a PM if you don't hear from one of them, or from someone else. I am poorly schooled about the RN engines. But I can tell you that as long as you put in one from another 2.3T, there will be no change in performance.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 19 Dec 2015, 22:43

I don't know much past 2000 but the '99 and '00 engines are functional equivalents. There are some internal differences between those two years but everything bolts on exactly the same. Past 2000 the engines started to get CVVT on both cams but I'm not sure exactly when. That isn't a deal killer, you can leave the unused CVVT unplugged and it acts just like a regular cam.

There was a later version of the High Pressure Turbo engine that is a 2.4. It will work as well as far as I know and it has slightly better performance.

...Lee

fairmont50 · Post by **fairmont50** » 21 Dec 2015, 07:36

I am pretty sure that it is a head gasket between cylinders 1 and 2. Do not see any reason to tear down a engine with 300k on it and replace the head gasket. Also, there is a crack in the back of the block that has been there for several years that seeps coolant. This seems to be a fairly common problem on the high pressure turbo engines.

I did manage to find a '99 T8 engine with 131k on it that should be here in a few weeks. Any tips on the swap would be appreciated.

Chris

Post by **erikv11** » 21 Dec 2015, 09:46

While you have it out,
- change the rear main seal, Volvo brand seal only.
- Also the input seal on the transmission, both axle seals (Corteco on those),
- full timing belt path.
- Turbo oil drain return line gaskets and turbo coolant hoses are small things that always come up, and are a relative nightmare on an AWD when the engine is back in the car but super easy with it out.
- consider replacing the oil tube o-rings inside the oil pan. I always do this job when I have an engine out but your call. Another common hi-mileage/hi-time failure item that is much, much easier to do now. Volvo branded only on those o-rings. You will need a tube of anaerobic gasket sealer, the Volvo pink stuff is excellent but I hear the Permatex product works fine, too.

Cheapest Volvo vendor I know of is http://volvopartslisle.com/.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 21 Dec 2015, 15:25

My additional tips are to take a lot of pictures, particularly of the vacuum line and PCV routings. The electrical is pretty easy since the connectors tend to be device unique. I have found that it is easier to pull the engine with the transmission than it is to try to take them apart. It takes a bit of finesse to maneuver it in and out but with a leveler it isn't all that bad. I can manage them by myself but an extra set of eyes and hands to help line things up as the engine comes in and out makes it easier. The stuff that erikv11 suggested is great advice. It is all very easy on an engine stand but a real PITA once the engine is installed. I would do a complete overhaul of the PCV anyway while it is out, particularly on a turbo since it is a bear to deal with the intake manifold once the engine is installed in the car. You may want to consider the front and rear cam seals as well but if you do replace the front seals you will need a cam adjustment tool. The price on that tool has come way down on eBay and / or Amazon and I think it is around $80.00 now.

On the intake camshaft there will be no rear cam seal but I add one anyway, it is the same as the rear exhaust cam seal and I sleep a bit better with a seal being there rather than just relying on the cap. That cap is difficult to get off without damaging it so you may want to order a replacement at the outset.

One other secret to life is to remove the fan shroud and the radiator fan before you start to pull things, it give you a lot more room to get things in and out.

...Lee