Tensioner Roller

FastYellow · Post by **FastYellow** » 22 Dec 2015, 09:28

Ok so i was in the process of changing all my Timing belt, water pump, all rollers and tensioner. I stripped the T45 torx bolt. (damaged by previous owner) I didn't want to drill a hole into the fromt fender on my Gul T5R . So now i took a dremel and carbide cut off wheel and have cut most of the washer and torxs front bolt head off....still not coming off. The tensioner roller casing swivels in place as its supposed to do, but not able to slide it off the bolt.
Help. I really don't want to pull the engine out.
I will post pics as soon as i know how to.
Thanks all

FastYellow · Post by **FastYellow** » 22 Dec 2015, 09:31

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FastYellow · Post by **FastYellow** » 22 Dec 2015, 09:32

FastYellow · Post by **FastYellow** » 22 Dec 2015, 09:36

Post by **cn90** » 22 Dec 2015, 10:41

Cur further in a bit more.

Post by **erikv11** » 22 Dec 2015, 11:04

Did you remove the serp belt tensioner? Just 2 easy-access bolts, may open up a little more room for the Dremel tool.

Post by **FLXC90** » 22 Dec 2015, 12:57

Safest way may be to sacrifice the tensioner pivot assembly. Cut the casting so you can use a stud extractor or something on the bolt shaft. then replace entire assembly. Edit-looking back at the picture, why not remove the pivot, and rebuild outside of the car?

Post by **erikv11** » 22 Dec 2015, 13:10

Nothing to rebuild, he just needs to get it out of there. The roller and the pivot are all the same thing. The part he is removing looks like this:

Post by **cn90** » 22 Dec 2015, 13:18

1+,

On the Back side, there is a washer and that is all.
So it is safe to cut further into the tensioner pulley pivot section itself.
Nothing to worry about, as long as you have a brand-new tensioner.

BTW, it is important to repeat these:
- TB: Conti only
- Tensioner: INA
- HT: Aisin
- WP: Aisin (alternate is HEPU but IMHO, Aisin is better)

Post by **dosbricks** » 22 Dec 2015, 13:25

Okay, you are living what I hope I never experience. I closely examined a tensioner assembly once and determined the bearing retainer behind the torx head bolt is hat shaped and the head of the bolt is recessed into it. So as suggested, you are going to have to cut deeper to get all of the bolt head. As you found out, cutting even what appears to be an outside washer off flush just will not do it. Considering that the retainer is recessed into the cast assembly, you are looking at a heck of a job with a Dremel.

Quickest way to deal with it would be like shown in an MVS thread. Hole-saw through the fender liner and drill out the bolt head. Plug the hole and it will be easy access for a long torx bit the next time you need to do a TB job.