2001 V70XC - Noticeable loud pop before ignition

[xHeart]

The metal-to-metal pop is louder than previous times.
Since the pop is associated with the starting of motor, I am wondering if the starter itself is a cause. Is there a mechanical part that would make a metal-to-metal pop?

A close sound reference is...
When engine idles and you mistakenly turn the key to start the engine and hear that loud metal-2-metal clunk.

Any thoughts?
Is the starter pinion and flywheel missing each other?

-- a clue at 7:20
https://youtu.be/h4Sa8MlOoQ4?t=10m

[regent]

I am confused now... why would you want to activate the starter on a running engine, if it does activate you will ruin the teeth. There is an interlock feature that prevents it from happening but I would not test it

[xHeart]

Sorry.
I was making reference to the metal-2-metal sound -- starter pinion/gear coming in contact with the flywheel.

To pursue my intuition, I took out the starter, it was dry, not a drop of lube. Cleaned it well, and greased with moly. Then checked the flywheel portion that was visible. I did not see any marking, nick or scuff.

Nothing to compare. Put it back together. It started right away.
I haven't heard the loud pop but, starting itself has toned down a lot. The contact sounds soft, not piercing or sharp.

I say, starter needs servicing and lubrication at each 1000 starts for it to last the life-time.

[xHeart]

Two photos of starter motor pinion.

[oragex]

Did you apply grease on the shinny portion of the shaft? Is it accessible without removing it?

[abscate]

You will have to remove the starter to lube that shaft; it's buried in the flywheel housing.

[xHeart]

Steve is right.

The install of starter is such that the visible gear in the photo faces away -- towards the bulkhead -- and it slides into the engine opening where the flywheel sits an inch inside -- like pencil in a sharpener.

The starter motor must be removed for servicing. Do not remove the starter from the bracket mount, instead unscrew the mount itself from the block. You can see the one mounting screw from the spaces between intake manifold.

The gear would finger rotate only clockwise with ample resistance, but won't slide over the shaft with a pull -- that is good. I sanded the rust spots on casing and painted with high temp stuff for some longevity. I liked the wight of it, heavy -- the protective casing was rock solid.

I recommend this service, but brush clean, remove all the dirt and spray brake clean before putting a wrench on it. No force is required, nor you want to arm wrestle -- once unscrewed rotate it out. Watch your wrist and elbow for connection, sensors, hoses, and wires.

It will hurt your back a little, take few breaks in-between to help yourself.
Again, a much quieter and softer sound of start.

I am delighted and worry free with the state of the battery, alternator, and starter on our two cars.

[xHeart]

It has been few years, but I am expecting one loud metal-to-metal pop at ignition as the temps drops to low 40s -- planning a service.

[oragex]

Could it be the grease used is getting sticky in cold weather? I'm planning using synthetic grease

edit: I have some Castrol MP multipurpose grease which is not synthetic, so I got a little bit and put it in the freezer for 30 min. The grease got much more stickier than the one at room temperature, so definitely not going to use this. I know for a fact that CV joint grease goes the same at cold.

[xHeart]

Could it be the grease used is getting sticky in cold weather? I'm planning using synthetic grease

Would something like this work and last?