'81 245 Non-Turbo Stalling/Stuttering in 3rd

[TheLemonZinger]

Greetings Fellow Volvo Enthusiasts!
I am the proud new owner of a beautiful '81 245 with a fuel-injected B-21 (non-turbo) with manual 4-speed transmission and roughly 280K on the odometer. This was a birthday present from my brother, who drove it down to Texas from his home in Ohio. He bought it in Tennessee earlier this Summer (2013) and prior to Tennessee it was a California car for a couple decades. It is in excellent shape and has been well cared far. Also, it made the trip from Columbus, Ohio to Dallas, Texas in 20 straight hours less than a month ago. At the time it ran great.
Within 2 weeks of driving it sparingly (no long trips, didn't leave the city, would go 3 days without driving it), I started to have problems with a stuttering engine in 3rd gear. Every so often, after shifting into 3rd and starting to accelerate, the engine would alternately stutter and surge very briefly before going back to normal. This happened rarely enough I didn't pay much attention.
Then it started stalling in 3rd while driving (i.e. not immediately after shifting into 3rd - it would stall WHILE I was driving down the street at 30 mph). It immediately restarted and only once continued to stall and restart multiple times in the same 2 miles. Occasionally it would stall out but tapping the gas would bring it roaring back to life.
I ordered a replacement Oxygen sensor relay and fuel pump relay to replace some of the known issues with these engines. Those should arrive in 2 days. BUT yesterday I tried to drive it to the mechanic and it hard-stalled two blocks away and wouldn't restart. After two minutes of no start, I opened the hood, unplugged the O2 sensor relay, blew on it, and plugged it back in (no corrosion or melted plastic on the relay). The car immediately started. The mechanic (whom I had never visited before - new to town with a new car) was VERY patronizing and refused to work on my car (saying the car was older than most the guys working for him - rude considering the car is EXACTLY as old as I am). But he did give me a Lambda relay (Bosch part #0332 0120112) he said would work as a temporary replacement O2 sensor relay to try and diagnose the problem. Replaced the relay but still stalled twice on the two-mile drive home.

Based on previous posts related to this issue I am going to do the following in addition to replacing relays:
Check for cracks in the charcoal evaporation canister hose (assuming this year HAD one).
Check the in-tank fuel pump hose for disintegration.
Check the connection to the power stage (in the event the plug is losing connection briefly.)

I have some specific questions to ask you experts. When I ordered my replacement parts, I think I might have ordered a fuel pump relay for the Turbo or K-Jet engine: Stribel part #1348600 (there was no option on the Autohaus website to specify my engine). Does anyone know off-hand if this is the proper part for the '81 B21 engine that is NOT turbo?

Can you offer other possible issues/insights into this problem? Would anyone recommend filling the tank and adding some seafoam motor treatment (as is rumored to help these kinds of issues?) Also keep in mind my brother and I have only been using premium gas.

Also, if there's anyone out there in my area who knows a good vintage volvo mechanic please let me know. I live in the Denton area.

I realize I just wrote you all a novel but I assumed more information was better than less and any insight/advice you could add would be much appreciated. I will make sure to post a reply as I work through my own plan as well as your suggestions.

All best,
Courtney

[Austin_Volvo_Guy]

Courtney,

I would suggest testing the in-tank fuel pump and the external high pressure pump along with the Fuel pressure regulator if you are not getting fuel it will do weird things to the O2 sensor!.

Fuel pump testing!!, this is a great link!
http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm
Fuel Pressure regulator Test
1. unplug the vacuum line, if you smell gas more then likely the fuel regulator is bad, if you do not smell gas follow the steps below!
B6 - B14 Checking Fuel Pumps, Fuel Pressure and Regulator


B6 Connecting Fuel Pressure Gauge

Turn ignition OFF



Hold a piece of absorbent paper underneath fuel line to prevent spillage when line is loosened.
Connect gauge between fuel line and fuel distribution rail.
Use hose 5116 and adapter 5265.
Plug gauge hose with 5266.
Turn gauge cock to position 1 (pointing towards hose 5116).

B7 Connecting Power to the Fuel Pump Circuit



Remove panel from right-hand side of footwell.
Disconnect main relay.



Connect a bridge wire across terminals "30" and "87/2". Main fuel pump is easiest to hear.
To check tank pump, remove fuel tank lid and listen.

B8 If Neither Pump Operates:

Disconnect bridge wire from terminals "30" and "87/2".
Check for voltage at terminal "30".



No voltage = check fuse and wire between battery and relay.

Connect a bridge wire across terminals "30" and "87/2" in relay connector. Both pumps should run.

Pumps do not start = check wires between relay and pumps.

If one of the pumps operates:

Check wiring from fusebox to the defective pump.
Install new pump if wiring is OK.

B9 Checking Fuel Pressure
If Both Pumps Operates:

Check Fuel Pressure Fuel pressure = 250 kPa (36 psi).

B10 If Fuel Pressure Is Too High:

Disconnect wire connected between fuel pump relay connections "30" and "87/2".



Disconnect fuel return line from pressure regulator. Blow through line.
Disconnect vacuum hose from pressure regulator. Blow through line. If both hoses are free from blockages, regulator is defective and should be replaced.
Re-check pressure after installing new regulator.

B11 If Fuel Pressure Is Too Low:



Pinch fuel return line with hand and check pressure increase.

IMPORTANT Do not allow pressure to exceed 600 kPa (85 psi).

If pressure rises quickly, pumps and fuel lines are OK.

Replace regulator and measure again.

If pressure rises slowly, this indicates a blocked fuel filter, tank pump filter or fuel line.

Check and replace as necessary, filters and lines.

If pressure does not rise, fuel pump is defective.

Replace fuel pump.

B12 Checking Pressure Regulator



Connect vacuum pump to regulator. Use vacuum pump 5843, or equivalent.
Pump air out of regulator and check that fuel pressure drops. Fuel pressure should drop to same extent as vacuum applied to regulator.
250 kPa (36 psi) - vacuum = Fuel pressure.

B13 Switch Off Fuel Pumps



Disconnect wire between terminals "30" and "87/2".
Connect the connector to the main relay.
Reinstall the panel under the dashboard.



B14 Disconnect Pressure Gauge 5011

Hold a piece of absorbent paper underneath fuel line to prevent spillage.

IMPORTANT! Any plastic fuel line ties removed must be refitted.

[TheLemonZinger]

Austin_Volvo_Guy Thanks so much for the reply.
I replaced the fuel pump relay over the weekend and the problem seemed to be solved. I drove it around for about half and hour with no problem.
The NEXT time I drove it I hard stalled again in 3rd and couldn't restart immediately. So back to the drawing board for the time being.

That link IS amazing and I thank you! However, I do think that everything involved in actually getting to the fuel tank is beyond my abilities as a novice, and I will wait to go through these steps when my brother is here to help. I did find a GREAT mechanic in Ft. Worth (the Vol-Vo clinic run by a father/son team out on Camp Bowie Blvd.) who were very knowledgeable and nice. If we get in over our heads it's good to know we have someone who specialized in older 240's. However, I will have to arrange to have it towed to Ft. Worth

I will post back in a couple weeks after I've had a chance to do some more work on my issues.

Thanks!

[TheLemonZinger]

Also, I think it's important to mention the car ONLY stalls in 3rd. I can drive it around just fine if I avoid 3rd gear. Strange.

[TheLemonZinger]

Wanted to check back in and update this thread (sorry it took so long to update).
Turns out my ignition coil connections were loose. Seriously that was the only problem. The vibration of the engine was causing the connection to break and stall out. all i had to do was remove the coil connection wires, clean them with a stiff wire brush, add a bit of dialectic grease, and reconnect making sure the connection was tighter.
thanks everyone for the help - hope this info helps anyone else with a similar stalling problem. i would imagine it's pretty common, and a good place to start for any stalling issues or erratic engine behavior.