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Temperature gauge and fuel gauge quit working simultaneously after valve job

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
1983 - 1992 740
1982 - 1991 760
1986 - 1991 780
1990 - 1998 940
1990 - 1998 960
1997 - 1998 V90/S90

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Uncle_Paul
Posts: 8
Joined: 7 January 2016
Year and Model: 1993 240DL
Location: tx

Temperature gauge and fuel gauge quit working simultaneously after valve job

Post by Uncle_Paul »

1993 Volvo 240 fuel and temp gauges don't work after valve job

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93Regina
Posts: 2813
Joined: 18 January 2014
Year and Model: 93:240/940
Location: Sunflower State
Been thanked: 65 times

Post by 93Regina »

Uncle_Paul wrote:1993 Volvo 240 fuel and temp gauges don't work after valve job
If other warning lights, speedometer, etc., are working on cluster, then the onboard voltage regulator has shot craps, or its not getting power, or that circuit is not flowing current.

harryhendo
Posts: 65
Joined: 5 June 2015
Year and Model: 940, 855, S70, V70
Location: Northern New Jersey

Post by harryhendo »

The temp gauge gets its signal from a coolant temp sensor screwed into the block, which may have been disconnected during the valve job. Check the wiring connector at the sensor under the intake manifold.
'92 940
'94 855 (manual!)
'00 S70 (manual, the $500 experiment)
'02 V70

Uncle_Paul
Posts: 8
Joined: 7 January 2016
Year and Model: 1993 240DL
Location: tx

Post by Uncle_Paul »

Thanks again for your help. Yes the wire is connected to the sending unit. I should check that wire for continuity I suppose. Did I read somewhere that those two gauges were powered by a 'voltage stabilizer'? Or is it just coincidence that they both decided not to function after valve job? Hmmm.....bad ground to one side of cluster? Is that possible?

Uncle_Paul
Posts: 8
Joined: 7 January 2016
Year and Model: 1993 240DL
Location: tx

Post by Uncle_Paul »

After running motor for ten minutes, shutting it off for ten minutes turned the key and got silence. She blew that big 'ignition' fuse in the little box at the positive battery post. Smoked it good. .....everything was fine a few minutes ago. So I wonder if this is possibly related to the gauges not working? I apologize for the lousy grammar, etc. Any ideas where to begin would be much appreciated. Thank you for your time.

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93Regina
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Joined: 18 January 2014
Year and Model: 93:240/940
Location: Sunflower State
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Post by 93Regina »

Uncle_Paul wrote:1993 Volvo 240 ...big 'ignition' fuse....
Only late model 1993-240s got this setup, so which fuse?
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Uncle_Paul
Posts: 8
Joined: 7 January 2016
Year and Model: 1993 240DL
Location: tx

Post by Uncle_Paul »

60 amp ignition fuse. Thx

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93Regina
Posts: 2813
Joined: 18 January 2014
Year and Model: 93:240/940
Location: Sunflower State
Been thanked: 65 times

Post by 93Regina »

Uncle_Paul wrote:60 amp ignition fuse
Remove small fuse #3 (25 amp) and small fuse #13 (16 amp)

I would get two jumper wires with spade terminals and attach them to the big fuse receptor, and hook an amp gauge up to those wires.

With key off, check for a amp drain...with key on, check amp draw...start it up, and check amp drain

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93Regina
Posts: 2813
Joined: 18 January 2014
Year and Model: 93:240/940
Location: Sunflower State
Been thanked: 65 times

Post by 93Regina »

Uncle_Paul wrote:60 amp ignition fuse
What does this fuse have it rated as?

Uncle_Paul
Posts: 8
Joined: 7 January 2016
Year and Model: 1993 240DL
Location: tx

Post by Uncle_Paul »

Don't understand the question. I ain't the sharpest knife in the drawer. Haven't been in a dc voltage puzzle quite like this before. Been reading some and am now looking at that original alternator and maybe relatives thereof. I'll do as you say and get back with info. Car is not at my home or work so have to tote tools, etc. thx again

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