Is it the car or is it the mechanic??

radelwurst · Post by **radelwurst** » 05 Jan 2016, 12:29

Having just looked at what a heater core actually does, I wonder if the issue with oil getting into the coolant (recently fixed with the new oil cooler) clogged it up enough to result in loss of heating to the cabin. The mechanic said they had to do multiple coolant flushes to clear the system.

Since I live in a mostly warm climate most of the year, do I even need a functioning heater core? So far the heated leather seats (and gloves) have kept us comfortable enough in the chilly winter here.

radelwurst · Post by **radelwurst** » 06 Jan 2016, 06:40

So now I feel a bit sheepish......

I took a look under the hood after driving and spinning up the fan to see what I could find. Turns out that there was nothing in my coolant overflow tank. That would be an explanation to why the fan turns on immediately when driving and is so loud since it's working more than it should try to cool the engine I'm guessing. I filled it with 2L of water so I could feel better about driving it again, and it still is not full. I didn't notice a leak under the car or into the cabin (symptom of a broken heater core I hear), so now I wonder if there is a leak somewhere I can't see. This previous mechanic will be getting an earful, especially if he didn't fill it completely after the flush. At least the new mechanic has the correct coolant. I hope that fixes the fan issue, but will have the new mechanic take a good look too.

Post by **gstallons** » 06 Jan 2016, 07:32

This coating / fogging of the windshield is indicative of a heater core leaking. Not an affirmation but an indication.

Post by **gstallons** » 06 Jan 2016, 07:47

Also , the tank that holds the radiator cap can crack and leak . I don't know how these heater cores are as far as reliability is concerned , you will have to get others to chime in.....
You need to make sure the coolant tank is full...run the engine with the cap off , idling for about 20 mins. to allow the thermostat to open & water to circulate to be sure it is full . Then install the radiator cap .

Post by **xHeart** » 06 Jan 2016, 12:04

Diagram will help a little:
#4 is coolant reservoir, and #6 is a reservoir cap.
Tap water or just water will cause corrosion, distilled water is a safer choice.

radelwurst · Post by **radelwurst** » 11 Jan 2016, 23:21

Got the car back this week. Turns out it was just "missing" 3.5 liters (~1 gallon) of coolant. Mechanic didn't find a leak and it so far has been working just fine (heat, no fan, engine temp) once we filled it up. Makes me wonder if the first mechanic didn't let the coolant run through all the systems and didn't keep filling it after they did the oil cooler change/flush. That's basic stuff though that a mechanic/garage should know.

I'll keep an ear/eye out for the other things you guys have mentioned.

Thanks to you all for the comments and for the help!

Post by **xHeart** » 12 Jan 2016, 13:11

radelwurst wrote:Got the car back this week. Turns out it was just "missing" 3.5 liters (~1 gallon) of coolant. Mechanic didn't find a leak and it so far has been working just fine (heat, no fan, engine temp) once we filled it up. Makes me wonder if the first mechanic didn't let the coolant run through all the systems and didn't keep filling it after they did the oil cooler change/flush. That's basic stuff though that a mechanic/garage should know.

I'll keep an ear/eye out for the other things you guys have mentioned.

Thanks to you all for the comments and for the help!

This was pure neglect. Your diligence paid off.
Volvos can be costly on pocketbook.
It can go 200,000 miles just with timely fluid changes without a mechanical or electrical failure.
You may want to refresh ALL fluids -- the invisible AWD's too.

Post by **gstallons** » 12 Jan 2016, 15:31

The diagram xHeart posted , shows the coolant reservoir ( #4 in the diagram ) is the part I discussed as being a problem or an item needing replacement .

radelwurst · Post by **radelwurst** » 18 Jan 2016, 12:28

Yes the coolant reservoir was pretty gunked up after the oil cooler went bad. I wanted to replace it back then, but listened to that old mechanic who cleaned it out during the flush. Will look to replace in the near future anyway.

Transmission fluid, engine oil, have been replaced. Next thing is new brake rotors and pads.

radelwurst · Post by **radelwurst** » 23 Jan 2016, 03:01

So quick and "dirty" update:

Coolant is still leaking and it seems to have all gone to my engine oil side. Noticed significant amounts of white smoke (water vapor) coming from the exhaust one morning about three days ago. Checked the coolant level and it was gone from the reservoir. Checked the dipstick next on the engine and it was coated with chocolate milk. Not as gunky thick as the chocolate smoothie I had before when I replaced the oil cooler, but still not a good sign.

Before I had the oil cooler replaced no coolant was getting into the oil. Not it seems it all leaks into the oil. Bad oil cooler? Can I just bypass the thing? Taking it the mechanic to see if he can run tests on the head gasket to see if that's it, but this car is not looking good.

Is it the car or is it the mechanic??

Re: Is it the car or is it the mechanic??