v70xc Turbo Replacement Question

[jonnycycles]

I have a 2000 v70xc with 120000 miles on it in need of a new turbo (has shaft play and wheel shows signs of rubbing on the housing). A little research indicates that these turbos usually last a long time so my plan is to find a used one to replace it with, and hopefully determine what caused this ones early demise.

It looks like I need a TD04HL-13G turbo. Would a 13T also work? It appears only difference is the angle of the output flange which apparently can be swapped. If I find a good TD04HL-13T turbo can just swap the flange off of my existing 13G turbo and drop it in there?

[cvergi01]

You have a 13t stock. When replacing the TD04HL turbos, you can leave the turbine housing on the car and just replace the compressor side with the CHRA attached via the metal clamp that holds the two together. Waaay easier than replacing the whole thing.

See Roberts Video:

[tryingbe]

Turbo death is usually cause by foreign object, clogged catalytic converter, blocked oil feed line, blocked oil return, etc. Be sure to find out what cause the turbo death first and fix the problem before putting a new turbo in there.

[jonnycycles]

You have a 13t stock.

I get conflicting info on that one, however the sure way to tell is to look at the one on the car right?
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=18342

If the 13T and 13G are interchangable it just give me more options for finding good condition used ones.

Thanks for the replacement tip and video, Robert's videos have helped me out quite a few times with this car!

Turbo death is usually cause by foreign object, clogged catalytic converter, blocked oil feed line, blocked oil return, etc. Be sure to find out what cause the turbo death first and fix the problem before putting a new turbo in there.

I do hope to find the cause of the problem. I first noticed the beginnings or the turbo issue 2 1/2 years ago when I replaced the crankcase ventilation system and flame trap at 104,000 miles. When I peeked inside the turbo outlet I could feel quite a bit of shaft play and the blades looked like they had hit the housing at some point, although I couldn't make them hit it by putting pressure on it by hand. Since then I've heard a momentary grinding noise on really cold starts (anything below 5 deg F), recently I started it at -10 deg F and it was very noticeable and while I can't be certain, it seemed to be coming from the turbo area. Car otherwise works great and has plenty of power. The only code I get is an intermittent P0422 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold, but no signs of a clogged converter. All vacuum lines have been replaced, new MAF (these were done to fix a previous long term fuel trim code P1171), and I do not notice an exhaust manifold leak so I've been assuming the converter is not clogged, but also not working properly and should be replaced soon.

I am a bit surprised that it's been holding on for almost 20,000 miles, but it's not going to get any better.
My plan:

1) track down a used turbo (first determine what one I need). Depending on the condition of what I find maybe re-build it.
2) replace catalytic converter (and probably 02 sensors) since I think I need to anyway
3) when installing the new/used turbo verify that the oil supply and return lines are not clogged.

Any further tips or suggestions are welcome, and does anyone has a working used turbo they are willing to sell?

[scot850]

Assuming your car has a B5244T engine, the turbo was used on many Volvos if you believe Vida. If this is your engine, the exchange part # Volvo lists is: # 8602396.

This is listed on many Volvos from 98 on into the mid 2000's which I I'm not convinced with.

If it helps, to identify which turbo you have, here is a picture of the ID plate for a 13G I have under my work-bench that came from a 98 V70XC. It has minimal shaft movement (dealer confirmed) and I'd happily sell it but shipping to the US is steep. The advantage you have is the 70c to CDN$ which would really help.

If you are interested, PM me.

ID plate on turbo

Here is the picture.

Neil.

[erikv11]

Do some searching if you are considering replacing a 13t with a 13g. From my fuzzy memory, I thought the 13t actually flows a fair bit better than the 13g, much more like a 15g. It's not that a 13g won't work where there was a 13t, but the car would probably drive a little differently, and the ECU would not be completely matched.

On the other hand if your car does have a 13g now (check the plate on the turbo!), then consider Neil's for sure. Or I also have a 13g I would sell.

[rspi]

I don't think it would matter, 13T or 13G. I thought all of them had 13T's until recently.

What kind of oil are you running? Really needs to be full synthetic.

[Ozark Lee]

The only difference between the T and the G is the exhaust housing and it is interchangeable. If you have a G on the car and wind up with a replacement T you just take the band clamp off and exchange the exhaust housing to the original G housing. The tag on the turbo will not be correct but at that point but who cares? The exhaust housing does need to match the downpipe angle on the exhaust flange.

...Lee

[erikv11]

I don't think it would matter, 13T or 13G. I thought all of them had 13T's until recently. ...

So because you didn't know, it must not matter? Haha I will have to use that one sometime!

The only difference between the T and the G is the exhaust housing and it is interchangeable. ...

Yes the exhaust housing is different, but by no means is that all. In fact almost everything is different between a 13g and a 13t, in the turbo itself (some differences are small, but several differences nonetheless).

The 13t has:
- larger compressor wheel
- different compressor housing
- larger turbine wheel
- slightly different turbine housing

And better numbers. I have never driven a 13t but I have read what others say; look at the numbers, the 13t has the flow of a 15g and should have the quick spool of a 13g: http://stealth316.com/2-turboguide.htm

13g and 13t are pretty different turbos, and I am pretty sure I would choose the 13t over the 13g every day of the week. Maybe even choose the 13t over the 15g, I would want to try them both to decide.

[rspi]

Laugh all you want but I know of people replacing the 13g with the newer 13t a lot without doing anything else with no ill effects. That is the main reason I didn't know the older ones were 13g. The CHRA is slightly different but has been no problem to bolt right in.