'01 XC coolant spewage!

[sparky65]

And, of course, it may be that the clamp is just loose.

[precopster]

The heater core hoses are nowhere near the fuel rail though when a leak occurs it can spray in almost any direction.

If it happens to be the "J" shaped hose near the rear banjo bolt it can be duplicated. I insert a spring into good 3/8 water hose to prevent kinking and re-create the bend.

Looks like it's the hose you were wrestling with; too much flexing of an already aged hose!!

[abscate]

OEM for those hoses...don't use the cheap ones. Figure about 120 bucks for both.

[Moneypitowner]

Fixed so far! Here's what I did, since info on this engine is hard to come by...

1. Get a container for draining coolant into and your parts.

Parts

Drain pan

2. Remove the 2 T25 screws on each side of the vehicle holding the side wings of the undercarriage bezel on.

Panel wings

3. Pull the friction clamp down from the wheel well and Slide them rearward and out. Look up into the underside, near the radiator on the drivers side and you'll see a 10mm bolt holding one side of the rest of the panel on, the other side is in the same mirrored location. Work the panel out being careful not to disturb the fog lights.

Belly panel

Panel wing removed

4. Place your coolant bin under the draincock, I found it easier to loosen it with a 6mm hex wrench. Drain coolant.

6mm hex

Draincock

5. Release the 7mm hose clamp on the lower radiator tube to drain its contents into the drain pan.
(refer to "Draincock " picture)

6. Go topside and disconnect the sensor on the air tube to the turbo. Unscrew the air tube to the turbo (2 T25s).

Tube screws

Hose sensor

7. Disconnect the sensor from the bundle of air hoses attached to the air filter housing, then unhook the bundle from it. Now you can tuck those out of the way.

Sensor on filter housing

8. I chose to use a coat hanger to hold the turbo tube up by tethering it to the hood (which can be kept from pulling down with a block of wood if you'd like).

9. Now unclamp the 7mm lower radiator hose clamp to pull that hose out of the way.

Lower rad. hose

10. Now loosen the 3 12mm bolts for the black hose holder. One holds a wire clamp. It's finicky to get out.

Hoses retainer

Now there should be reasonable room for smaller hands to get in around that lower radiator hose nipple.

I used a 1/4" drive with extensions to get to the heater hose clamps. The first one I got from the front side. Difficult. The second one I ended up getting from the firewall side, since the clamp was pointed completely in a ridiculous direction. Even more difficult!

I removed the frontmost hose first completely, for obvious reasons. The clamps on the firewall are removed by turning the outermost plastic part counterclockwise and pulling.
The next hose is the one attached to the bottom side of the rad. hose nipple. Ridiculously difficult.
Now, snake the replacements in in reverse of how they came out. Not to easy, but once in place, attach and clamp on the engine side, then attach the firewall side. (I oriented my clamps in a way that a human can actually access them).
Push the firewall side of the new hoses onto their respective nipples (yep...)
And, as they say, installation is reverse of removal . Replace the coolant that was lost with either the drained coolant, if clean, which mine was, or with new... Check level over the next few days, or just let the level sensor tell you it's low and add accordingly.

[precopster]

And to add to this great write-up, I usually lightly lubricate the firewall end of the hoses so they don't tear upon insertion; they are expensive hoses and you don't want to have them leaking and have to do the job all over again