1999 V70 T5 - Broken Hatch wires lead to no-crank condition, Manual trans 9168056

Post by **benpineapple** » 05 Feb 2016, 07:38

Ugh, starting to sound like that "higher up" problem. What if the real fluke here is that the starter bypass actually worked?

Post by **abscate** » 05 Feb 2016, 08:12

Got it running with bypass but definitely hard start. I used my other key, so maybe the immob ring contacts are dirty.

The engine stumbled and coughed a few times before it caught.

Clutch switch is out, and I measure per the following pic - kind of odd that it is out of spec in opposite directions on either end.

269 Ohms switch fully closed
3700 Ohms switch open
Specifications are per pic

: Alldata Clutch Switch specs; Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 10.07.57 AM.png (14.79 KiB) Viewed 2294 times

Post by **abscate** » 05 Feb 2016, 08:13

benpineapple wrote:Ugh, starting to sound like that "higher up" problem. What if the real fluke here is that the starter bypass actually worked?

Im not one to begrudge a fluke that got me home from 200 miles away, the car in the driveway next to my tools, and my backup V70 Stickshift parked next to it.

I still have no FOB and no master lock switch function - I think on ME7 these tie into the immob system, so that might be indicative of my problem. I hear VIDA calling.

Post by **abscate** » 05 Feb 2016, 08:42

Progress report

I did not notice this last night - Fuse 6, central locking is blown
Replacing it and powering up, fine
Either lock button on driver or passenger side immediately blows fuse.

Im guessing this is causing the no-crank but I thought immob inhibited spark only on ME7?? I will know shortly.

Post by **abscate** » 05 Feb 2016, 08:50

Yes, my little problem child. You will tremble at the awesomeness of my troubleshooting skills.

Cup of coffee. What have I been doing for past two days? Lots of tailgate work moving work stuff

Popped the tailgate, my old friend has returned....

: Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 10.48.23 AM.png (1.01 MiB) Viewed 2289 times

So it looks like

Tailgate short >> Central locking fuse >> Starter inhibit

explains everything...

Or combined occurrence of

Tailgate short
Clutch switch wear.

Post by **abscate** » 05 Feb 2016, 09:17

and the verdict is:

Cleaned clutch switch with some MAF cleaner, cleaned operating shaft with sand paper, dab of silicone spray.

Car cranks and starts with clutch fully down. Removing Fuse 6, central locking inhibits starter cranking - THATS GOOD TO KNOW!

I just have to fix the pillar wiring problem this weekend and Ill be good.Second half of the DENVER win should be a good time to schedule.

Its very possible the clutch switch was still functional and the FUSE 6 caused by pillar wiring fault was the whole issue.

Post by **regent** » 05 Feb 2016, 11:50

abscate wrote:... cranks fine with the bypass, but will not start...

I bet you have at least one wire pulled while bypassing the starter solenoid circuit... Don't ask me how I know

Awesome picture of the culprit though

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 05 Feb 2016, 16:46

abscate, what an ordeal! But I agree, you've got sick problem-solving skills! Can you tell us how you bypassed the starter? I'd love to know how to do so just in case. (Also, don't want to sound like a NOOB, but what's a clutch switch? (I've heard of pedal, clutch, pressure plate, clutch slave cylinder, but never a clutch switch...)) Thanks!

Post by **abscate** » 05 Feb 2016, 18:08

There is an electrical variable resistance switch that detects clutch pedal position on manual transmission cars. The rest position indicates wear (I think) but more importantly the position is needed to prevent starting without the clutch on the floor, and also triggers the cruise control to drop out when the clutch is depressed.

Post by **abscate** » 05 Feb 2016, 18:55

I'll snap a picture of the starter bypass. It's under the engine compartment fuse lid, farthest forward, and is a large spade terminal end of a red green wire in a white housing

Here you go....